I can’t make it out in the boards, where does the e-switch path connect?
It looks like something that could be put together pretty easily. But I don’t have a D10 or anything remotely close to take measurements with or to test it on.
a ring around the outside of the driver
that is contacted when the sprung split ring is depressed by the piston
pics are links
All you would need is an anduril driver with the switchwire connected to a thin suitably sized underside insulated copper or brass washer fixed onto the driver.
I asked Lexel a while back if he had any suitable drivers, nothing came of it. If it helps, I snapped some (bad) photos of my D11 driver and can be seen in Lexel’s driver thread .
Have had my eye on this thread for a bit, as I have a D11 and have often wondered about the change of getting Anduril on it.
One of the light in this thread just re-sold; posting here so this thread has a pointer to it, for people interested:
(Lol I’d have considered buying it and selling my unmodified D11 - but missed it by a handful of hours, dang 
)
Can you modify my existing D10 ? I would love this set up, i still love my D10 form factor and slightly more through beam pattern, AND I love the tint, and UI of my new FWAA (219CT 4000k) but the accidental push on the FWAA is a major problem. I keep looking for a FWAA but in a better “easier to carry” form factor that wont accidently turn on in my pocket, but with that nicer rosy 4000k - 4500k tint, high CRI and no green. I think i have 2 working D10 and 1 broken D10. Are you still doing these mods? Also, with the newer driver, will it also take a standard 1.5v AA or does it have to be 14500 like the FWAA ?
This is an old thread, also the original poster is a known scammer : WTS seller warning list
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Thanks, I added a notice to the OP.
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