So to summarize, I’m looking for a 14500 light with a e switch, preferably anduril, that’s roughly the same size as the acebeam pokelit.
Yeah I am familiar with the TS10, got 3 of them, but I feel like is too short and the pocket clip does not sit deep enough in my pocket. Feels like it could fall of my pocket anytime. The pokelit sits perfectly in my pocket.
A good driver is preferable as well. Something regulated as I’ll be using this primarily on business trips and don’t want anything too big.
You sadly can’t really get the FWAA anymore, and the FW1AA has been unavailable for a very long time.
At least I haven’t been able to find one, I’ve wanted an FW1AA for a while.
Also, OP have you looked at the Sofirn SP10 Pro?
It’s a little slimmer than the TS10, but it is longer and has a very efficient regulated driver. It also works with the long TS10 clip or the Olight Baton 3 clip, for deeper pocket carry.
It’s been downgraded to a QFN20 T85 from the first version using the SOP8 version, which makes it very annoying to update (comes with very old Anduril 2), needing a custom pogo-pin setup or some very tiny soldering, instead of a SOIC8 clip and a USBASP.
The bezel and tailcap are also glued shut, so it is very difficult to disassemble without damage, I kind of bent the bezel on mine.
It is also no longer being sold with the deep carry clip, just the regular one.
clip on TS10 from Lumintop EDC05 does not rub on head and is nice and deep carry. TS10 works w 50.1mm Lumintop USB battery and most others except some protected cells that are 52mm long
D2 is very picky about batteries (needs very short). I use Vapcel F12 flat top. 50mm TS10 battery is too long. imo the D2 has the better driver, with regulated output. Clip is deep carry:
Yeap. But it’s a side switch. Not really a fan of that and the lh351d neither. Although the emitter is probably easily swappable. Thanks for the suggestion.
FWAA is in stock now at Amazon and Aliexpress. FW1AA looks out-of-stock though. Neals Gadgets website says they sold 3 FW1AA in the last 24 hours, so either they just sold out or the website tracking software doesn’t work.
Lumintop FW lights never sold with a deep-carry clip. However, Lumintop makes an is an optional deep-carry clip for the FWAA/FW1AA, which you can purchase on Neals Gadgets
Wurkkos sells it for a few bucks on their website and aliexpress store, but theres a lot of other clips that the TS10 can use.
It’s nice, the magnetic tailcap is convenient for hands free use, and you can have 2 colors of light (white+UV, flood/throw, white+red, tintramp, etc)
It can be optioned to use button-top batteries if you ask Hank in an email, then it should work fine with the Wurkkos 14500 and maybe also the Acebeam/Lumintop USB-C 14500s
It’s almost trivial to swap to 519a, it has a bit of glue in the reflector threads but it should be easy to break free.
Ive had so many frustrations w my D2 spontaneously turning itself off, and needing to be closed really really tightly, that I hesitate to recommend it.
I had multiple emails w Hank after I received the light, and he never once offered to replace the head of my D2 with a button head instead of the one I got, that has a spring in the head.
I wonder if I can remove the spring?
I even cut the spring on my tailcap to allow me to use 50mm batteries. My D2 has been the most frustrating and unreliable host Ive ever owned.
I spent a large amount of time trying to improve the body tube contact to the head and tailcap. Cleaning and polishing the contact ring in the tail. Polishing the contact ring in the head. Cranking down on the threads at both head and tail to try to get the contact surfaces to seat properly…
I even tried removing the anodising from the body tube at the tail end… it did not help… total nightmare of a host as far as body tube fittment. Even w the Vapcel F12 flat top batteries.
Cutting the tailspring helped the most, but it never occured to me to consider shortening the spring in the head, much less that Hank could have just used a contact button at the driver…
the spring on the driver tends to get pushed sideways by a button top. This prevents the spring from compressing far enough to allow the light to screw all the way shut, with the TS10 battery.
A stock D2 wont close all the way, and will not turn on, when using the TS10 button top battery. Unless the tailspring is shortened.
On my D2, I cut the tailspring, so it can now use TS10 button tops.
In this photo the D2 is using a TS10 Button Top. It also works w the other batteries in the photo also: (pic is a link to my D2 saga)
A brass button, is a much better solution than cutting the tailspring.
As long as the brass button is at least 2mm shorter than the stock driver spring.
There is actually a brass post in the middle of the driver spring. The issue is that the spring is supposed to compress down around the post, but instead the spring gets pushed sideways by the button top, so the spring cant compress fully, and then the light wont close all the way when using a 50mm long TS10 button top battery.
