Interesting, 12 seconds sound not very useful unfortunately, was it XP-G2’s? Did you test some lower drain cells to limit the power, to get more usability from the A6 triple like we discussed in the A6 GB thread?
I bought an aluminum S2+ spacer from RMM a couple weeks ago…
Yes you are right 
Thanks for the help TK, I didn’t see it. I wrongly assumed it started with S2 spacer at the top of the page and ended with the S2+ spacer and at the bottom it where only copper. Yeah nice, one essential weight/performance optimized part found
I will edit my previous wrong post about it. Thanks again.
cajampa, yes it’s XP-G2 S4 2B emitters and a lesser cell like the Pan PD is better for the light, making some 500 less lumens. So it can be controlled through cell selection like all FET drivers.
I didn’t use a spacer, so not only is there no added weight but since I removed 5 mm from the bezel and removed some stock from inside the bezel it’s actually even lighter than a stock light, or probably close to the same with the copper mcpcb. (no aluminum reflector though, and the polycarb optic is much lighter than the reflector it replaces)
Wow, now i am very curious please explain more
So you mean you have shortened the head, so you don’t have to use the spacer at all but can fit the triple noctigon straight on the shelf but still fit the optic (carlco i assume) and close the head with the bezel like stock??
How did you do it and how can i recreate it? I guess you mean to file or cut off 5mm from the bottom of the bezel but is there any thing else needed? You said you removed stock from the inside, i assume that means you widened the 16mm mcpcb shelf to 19.7mm for the triple noctigon. I don’t think i could do that thought, would it be possible to raise the bottom shelf up to the top shelf with a extra shim & still fit it somehow with the shortened bezel?
Uh, yeah, that is an awesome mod. No way this will beat it in lumen to fun ratio… But it is close… I have been using the short tube since I got it with the wire mod to make the tailcap work. It is nice and light, and the length reduction is actually the best thing. It doesn’t get mixed up with the stuff in my pockets and it is very convenient in the chest pocket of my work shirt… So while the run-time is reduced to a third or less of what it was (700mah vs 2000+mah), it is still quite useable and a lot more carry-able in my opinion.
Thanks, try it out. As you can see from the break down they are great to work on and crazy easy to pick apart and reassemble, better than any light i have encountered so far.
The only tool you need is small thin flat screwdriver or something stiff and thin to get to the driver.
I look forward to assembling my own little shorty A6 soon and especially the X6 shorty.
With your weights of the A6 + 18350 cells and Richards alu spacer and optic instead of reflector i suspect ~75g that i guessed could be quite close.
And it might be even less if i get to understand how Dale made his A6 triple without spacers at all……? I think i get it how but I am not all there yet.
I would say 75g would be good on the triple, the noctigon is not that much heavier, only a 2mm wide ring the same thickness compared to the 16mm noctigon.
I would be interested in seeing Dales short head triple mod. I had thought of this as well, but dismissed it as I did not want to wreck a head just trying… Now with some of Dales photos…
I think the Jexree is worth buying five at a time… it seems to be a light that will disappear 
when shown to others….
Yeah good point, the shorty version would be the short head shorty BLF A6-SE triple it is a mouthful to say but much less than a handful in hand or pocket :bigsmile:
And you are right, every one i have shown it to that is even slightly interested in lights want one, the trouble is if they can be trusted with running DD lithium lights without protection or not. And if not they need a Jexree Mini with Richard’s 12mm FET driver with a firmware that has LVP to protect them. + i make sure they get a XTAR MC0 to charge the 10440’s with, they are cheap and reliable and can charge at 0.250mha.
I’m interested. One for s2+ grey and other for BLF A6
Thanks.
I would like one bare / non-anodized BLF A6 short tube, please!
I’m sorry, but I can’t figure out how many versions there are or will be there.
When I posted my interest (only derived from the Bare A6 thread) I was under the impression that there are simply 2 versions. 1 bare, 1 anodized. Could someone please - perhaps even OP - clarify this threading problem.
There are (or will be)
Eagle Eye X6 (original)
Eagle Eye X6 (BLF SE - different tailcap, different threading?)
Eagle Eye X2
Eagle Eye A6
Manker (BLF) A6
Bare BLF A6
So far there seem to be 3 different 350 tubes according to OP, called
(Without comment)
(EE)
(BARE)
Now which fits where? And is the anodizing of the 2 black ones the same?
Thanks
HQ
You are correct on three tubes
Two for the BLF A6, one anodized (no comment), one bare (BARE)
The last tube is for Eagle Eye threads (EE) and is anodized only. It fits the EE A6 and X6 (BLF & regular) but NOT the X2.
The anodizing will be black for both and should be a match for the BLF A6 on both anodized tubes…
Hope this helps and thanks for bringing up that this had gotten murky.
cajampa, maybe this will help
I cut 5mm off the bezel, turned threads out at the edge so there would be an o-ring landing, and removed material above the threads so the pill could thread in that extra 5mm.
I sanded down the 20mm Noctigon to fit into the emitter shelf of an EE A6. With half the optic locator holes missing, and the legs on the optic wider than the emitter shelf cavity, I cut about half the post off the optic on the outside edge.
What? You don’t expect me to have a lathe and not use it, do you? 
This would be ideal with a shorty tube and 18350 Purple Efest, and that extra little bit shorter would make it even sweeter!
VERY nice Dale! Thanks for the pics, I was afraid it was a lathe project, out of my realm. I really like the turned down Noctigon as well, but have a question for your modding side. If you filled in the 16mm “cavity” the original emitter and board sat in (spare copper board or whatever), this would only increase the length from your mod by 1.6mm, correct? I dont know that this “taller” mod would make it any easier for me, but less to remove from the front bezel for depth of threading….
But of course, and that would be the sensible way to do it.
It was said elsewhere here, when asked about sanding the 20mm triple down to 16mm, that “you just can’t make it fit” so I did.
Without the lathe, use a second copper star to act as a spacer/heat sink, and file off threads on the pill itself to allow it fit deeper into the bezel. File off the excess on the bezel and you’re up and running. (I used to sand the second star smooth on top to get rid of the masking, making just a smooth copper disc out of it)
A rubber sanding arbor can be used to hold the pill from the driver side in a drill, being able to spin it can help get a clean removal of a few threads on the top side of the pill so it can seat deeper into the bezel. Likewise, laying a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and moving the flat bottom of the bezel (where you filed it off) will clean it up and leave it so the cut doesn’t show when reassembled.
The sanding arbor could feasibly hold the bezel from the top side so you can spin it up in the drill and maybe use a file or sandpaper (rotary tool?) to remove threads at the edge for the o-ring.
I didn’t use the lathe on the mcpcb, I found a #10 machine screw and a couple of nuts to fit it, placed this through the center hole and locked it on with a nut. Then mounted the screw in my drill and spun it while holding it gently against a belt sander. Little bit, measure, little more, measure (dunk in cold water) little bit more…
Could have done it on the lathe, probably, but the belt sander was already set up on the back porch. I figured I could do it just as quick with an 80 grit belt on the sander and be done with it. lol
In for one BARE tube please
Thank you for clearing this up.
I’m down for 435. and 436. on the list.
Please change nr. 435. to (EE)
Please let nr. 436 stay (BARE)
Sorry for the inconvenience caused and thanks again for letting this line of 18350 tubes come to life.