Ok, what gives here? Call me stupid, but do our A6s unscrew where this pictures shows? Mine unscrews right below the lettering. I can’t get mine to unscrew where this one shows. Does it? And how?
If you remove the head from the light where the battery tube is and grip the part with the BLF SE engraving part you should be able to do this. It was tight at first, but there was no threadlocker on mine…. Try gripping it in one of those jar opener silicone grabber thingies…
Tighter, but no C8, definitely got a bit more projection. I hesitate to say throw, but it tightens the beam some. I like the 2B tint quite a lot better than the 1A, which is normally ok by me.
Spring bypasses top and bottom allow the V3 2B HI to pull 5.63A and make 1417.95 lumens. A jump from 5.30A and 1224.75. I also put an Omten switch in it. I didn’t run the bypass through the pcb though, my drill is out babysitting the new lathe.
Hot spot is white. Very nice. Would be tighter still if a reflector could be found this short with a mirror finish. I might hand polish this one and get rid of the orange peel, but not tonight.
No yellow, I am not liking the yellow myself. It is more of a creamy white, with a couple of blueberries in the blender… sooo slight a hint of blue it is barely there inside on a white wall… Outside is a bright white, slightly less than neutral, nowhere near as blueish as 1A
Now the 3D is a nice white on the SE A6… creamy and no hint of yellow to me…
This is where it becomes rewarding to focus on how threads are made and matched.
All I knew about that up to this moment is that it’s arcane, and very well worked out over the past couple of centuries since interchangeable parts became workable.
It is pretty normal for domed emitters to change tint at different angles. Usually the cooler hues go forward to create the spill area, while warmer hues go sideways into the reflector to create a hotspot. This can be fixed with a frosted lens or by adding diffuser film to the lens, or sometimes by using a different type of optic.
Additionally, the anti-reflective lens coating will tend to shift the tint a little.
I’m hoping to take some beam pics with the original lens and a bare-glass lens, and also with DC-Fix to blend different parts of the beam together… but not tonight. For now I think it’s time to sleep.
Those amp-readings on 18350 batteries, were they in the first seconds on a fully charged battery? If so, that is not a great indicator of performance, what are the readings after 30 seconds? (which will give an already better idea)
Well, it’s a siple question with a complicated answer.
First reading on a rested cell. Indicative of what the light can do, not so much a showing of any particular time frame in the doing of it. Pulling over 4A from a cell with 700 mAh capacity gives a linear result that resembles a snowball rolled down a steep mountain, there is no part of that slope that indicates what the light can do other than dim quickly.
I guess I think of it in tactical terms, with a fresh cell in the light you’re always ready to blind an assailant. After those first seconds you’re ready to run. In a couple of minutes, when said assailants eyes have adjusted after being flash blinded, your fancy hotrod is barely making enough light for him to find you.
I see. Here in Holland we have no bears, no darkness, asaillants do exist but are still rare, hence the interest in information what happens after the first seconds :-) .
I understand the steep slope in direct drive but the first seconds seem extra steep, even from a rested cell.
No need to redo the measurements for me, I was a bit curious but not that curious