I have a Nitecore MT06MD. It always turns on low (4 lumens floody), then half presses for medium and high. The button is mushy.
Unless you need high CRI, I prefer the single mode Streamlight stylus or the brighter Mac Tools 2xAAA. If you aren’t set on 2xAAA, I would take my Microstream USB over any of these, but the low is 50 lumens.
You might also consider a single AA flashlight. My favorite is the EagTac Clicky. It has a tail switch, and if the head is tight it comes on high, if the head is loose it’s in mode memory which you could keep on low… that’s how I use it.
I don’t know how well it would work for sanitization, but one mod I tried on a couple flashlights was to use “privacy film” you can pick up at HD or similar. It’s the film that you put on bathroom windows or front/back doors so people can’t see directly through. It will make the beam more floody, and a thick frost should cut down on the brightness 10–25. I use DC fix, but usually look for more light transmitance, so the inefficiencies from the generic version should work in your favor. IMO, get the one with a sticky side to make it a quick mod.
Back when I was younger, the hospital would sometimes have this plastic-y translucent tape. In a pinch, you could just slap that on the head.
Although I don’t like the button, the idea is to turn the flashlight on with a click (low). Then half press to cycle the modes while on. If you try to do it quickly it is more annoying. Just turn it on as a first step. Take a breath, then half press if you want a higher mode. This slows down the process of changing modes, but keeps me from tearing my hair out trying to get it to to med or high by rushing.
The figure alone wont tell you the whole story as it depends on the beam pattern too, i.e. whether the light is mainly focused into a hotspot or spread over a wide area as flood.
If you’re judging the brightness at a specific spot, such as shining the light into someone’s eye or onto a map, then it’s about intensity rather than total light output. The more light you guide into the hotspot the more intense/brighter that part of the beam will be.
The privacy screen film and DC-fix that Scotty321 mentions above diffuse the light, so takes some of it out of the hotspot and diverts it into the flood, which makes the central part of the beam less bright.
I think the privacy film blocks more light than DC-fix though, which is separate to diffusion, and which is why DC-fix is generally preferred as people generally want to a way to change the beam pattern without reducing the total light output. In your case though the privacy film may work.
Another quick hack to do this if you don’t want to spend more money and aren’t worried about being able to reverse the mod is to lightly roughen the front lens with sandpaper, this will both diffuse the beam and reduce the total light output so is best done in stages to avoid reducing the output too much.
To undo the mod you’d either have to polish or replace the lens though which may not be viable.