2-AAA Non-Maglite suggestion please

I have a Nitecore MT06MD. It always turns on low (4 lumens floody), then half presses for medium and high. The button is mushy.

Unless you need high CRI, I prefer the single mode Streamlight stylus or the brighter Mac Tools 2xAAA. If you aren’t set on 2xAAA, I would take my Microstream USB over any of these, but the low is 50 lumens.

You might also consider a single AA flashlight. My favorite is the EagTac Clicky. It has a tail switch, and if the head is tight it comes on high, if the head is loose it’s in mode memory which you could keep on low… that’s how I use it.

I had not looked at the actual Nitecore low level figure, but we have found it to be a little bright actually. We would have preferred if the First On low click was actually a little lower.

When it comes on in a night time darkened Ambo aircraft cockpit or in the cabin with the medical team, it had been commented that it is a bit too bright.

AAA is the ideal size as it fits in to the pen pockets of paramedic / flight crew flight suits.

A bonus of them that we were not originally aware of is they can be sterilised. Not of interest to us as the flight crew, but the medical guys might find that handy.

The button is a let down though, it does occasionally feel a bit stiff.

I have already e-mailed Nitecore with regard to the button and brightness issues.

I don’t know how well it would work for sanitization, but one mod I tried on a couple flashlights was to use “privacy film” you can pick up at HD or similar. It’s the film that you put on bathroom windows or front/back doors so people can’t see directly through. It will make the beam more floody, and a thick frost should cut down on the brightness 10–25. I use DC fix, but usually look for more light transmitance, so the inefficiencies from the generic version should work in your favor. IMO, get the one with a sticky side to make it a quick mod.

Back when I was younger, the hospital would sometimes have this plastic-y translucent tape. In a pinch, you could just slap that on the head.

Although I don’t like the button, the idea is to turn the flashlight on with a click (low). Then half press to cycle the modes while on. If you try to do it quickly it is more annoying. Just turn it on as a first step. Take a breath, then half press if you want a higher mode. This slows down the process of changing modes, but keeps me from tearing my hair out trying to get it to to med or high by rushing.

I’ve received the WK02 and WK01, both in red. They seem great… the 01 isn’t as small as the Tool that I’ve misplaced.


Can you confirm that they do always come on in Bright first? and you must cycle down too Low…or can yo set it to memory mode so it always starts in Low

they look great if they can start in Low

The figure alone wont tell you the whole story as it depends on the beam pattern too, i.e. whether the light is mainly focused into a hotspot or spread over a wide area as flood.

If you’re judging the brightness at a specific spot, such as shining the light into someone’s eye or onto a map, then it’s about intensity rather than total light output. The more light you guide into the hotspot the more intense/brighter that part of the beam will be.

The privacy screen film and DC-fix that Scotty321 mentions above diffuse the light, so takes some of it out of the hotspot and diverts it into the flood, which makes the central part of the beam less bright.
I think the privacy film blocks more light than DC-fix though, which is separate to diffusion, and which is why DC-fix is generally preferred as people generally want to a way to change the beam pattern without reducing the total light output. In your case though the privacy film may work.

Another quick hack to do this if you don’t want to spend more money and aren’t worried about being able to reverse the mod is to lightly roughen the front lens with sandpaper, this will both diffuse the beam and reduce the total light output so is best done in stages to avoid reducing the output too much.
To undo the mod you’d either have to polish or replace the lens though which may not be viable.

No memory, always starts low.

Just ordered a couple to try
Their website does not make that clear. It just shows High/Med/Low
Rather it should show Low / Med /High

Both of mine also start in low.

Have a play with the filters on this site:


That is a great site

4 Wurkkos units arrived yesterday
2x WK01 and 2x WK02
A 4000k and 6000k in each size

I asked a separate question about them

Nice little lamps, do exactly what i need. Yes they do feel a lot cheaper than the Nitecore MT06MD, but other than that they perform as required.

Seems the batteries load from the lamp end, not been able to unscrew the tail cap