I was just speculating a possibility.
Got my qty 3 of the A22-7135 v21 boards in today. They look great, and I got a few F13's to house them. Not sure when I can build up and test, but they look impressive. Thanks wight! 
Wight do u happen to have the parts list for this driver ?
It’s the same parts list as other 7135 drivers. Look in RBD’s OSHpark projects thread for one or more carts. Here is one: http://www.digikey.com/short/5zc95 As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I do recommend swapping that 1% 19.1k resistor for a 1% 22k resistor.
You can also just use the FET driver parts lists I posted in the A17DD-SO8 thread (Posts # 36 & 38). Just remove the FET: http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=48a3801cb6
Note that either way you’ll need some 7135’s - you can order those from FT, IOS, MTN, CNQG, etc.
Or you can just grab a Nanjg-105c or Nanjg-105D and transplant parts. (The 19.1k resistor needs to be swapped for 22k OR the MCU needs to be reflashed.)
Heat gun on order for delivery sometime early in January ….
by which time I hope these fine details are all figured out (or that someone’s building the boards, since this seems a steep learning curve …)
I really don’t think anything needs to get figured out. I consider my cells empty at <3v. As far as I know when using the resistor values I suggest ADC-crit (shutdown) should happen at ~3.0v or a hair less (2.929v). That’s fine with me. If you need anything else the firmware can be easily tweaked to accommodate that with the 22k/4.7k combo (or with the 19.1k/4.7k combo… which requires firmware tweaks). The idea behind having two values (ADC_LOW & ADC_CRIT) is that you get extended runtime from a near-empty cell w/ the help of stepdowns. If ADC_LOW isn’t high enough that won’t happen. ADC_CRIT can be very low and still be safe, but it won’t really do you a ton of good I think (not much capacity down there anyway).
I don’t think there’s a very steep learning curve, but if you have questions it would help to post them instead of just posting that there’s a steep learning curve. 
will do, thanks.
Does anyone put these together so it can just be a drop in?
Have two F13’s on standby for surgery.
Has anyone tried OFF time memory with this driver? It's taking 14 secs using the 130 value that works well with a few other drivers I've used it with. I swapped the 1 uF cap and still have the same problem. Weird - even added a jumper direct to the outer ground ring - no difference again. On the open bench it's taking like 20 secs. I've used several other 1 uF caps from the same batch and all others worked normally in other drivers. I know the grnd side of the cap goes thru a 7135 to the outer ring, as well as the jumper.
I haven’t really figured out how this works, but I recently put my finger on this kind of thing being a real issue and not just something I’d been imagining. I’m not sure exactly which drivers are affected, but maybe all ‘diode bypass’ type drivers are affected? This seems to include LDO setups. I’m really not at all confident about what the hangup is, it could be unrelated to that stuff after all. I have not done extensive testing on the cause.
This issue is why the new 22mm FET+1 driver includes pads for a pulldown resistor for the OTC.
Either adjust your OTC values (get around 240 or higher) or stack a high value resistor. LinusHofmann used 220kOhm on the unique LDO setup in the big Shocker build. (Discussed in posts # 317 through 343.) This worked nicely with the stock 130/255 ADC value, but it won’t exactly the same with a 1s Li-Ion setup. You’ll probably want slightly less pulldown on only 1s.
Thanks - I'm pretty sure I successfully did A17DD-S08 drivers with OFF time, no zener mods, but every A117DD-S08 board I built up I install the OTC cap on, so it's available for conventional power switch light mods (non e-switch). So I think the A177DD-S08 is a diode bypass design
I read thru the Shocker thread posts - interesting. Maybe I'll first try the 240 value, then if that doesn't work, not sure... Could try the stacked resistor - assume it's simply stacked on the cap?
Yes simply stack it on the cap. I haven’t ever needed it with a AVR off time driver but with my PIC drivers I always use the cap/resistor combo. I would start out with a 180k, wight mentions 220k, so I’d say shoot for around the 200k range, should fix you up.
K - I'll check what resistor I have/can use, and if I got one in that range, I'll try this first. I got the FT resistor variety packs. Will report back.
Is there a way of characterizing a driver’s “OFF Time drain” behavior accurately?
Say with a scope measuring voltage across the cap vs time, or would the probes interfere with the drain behaviour enough to make it worthless?
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Oh and just like to point out, with my 220k resistor stack and 130/255 timing the offtime threshold is VERY quick. So only a fast tap on the button will actually change modes, even a half second press will make it come back on in the same mode. I like it, but it may be too fast for some, it’s actually usable as a forward clicky like operation for signalling etc.
Best to just set the timing to default and try a bunch of those fasttech resistors until you find one that hits the sweet spot for that particular driver
Paralleled in a 200k resistor, and like you say, it's very quick, do-able, but very fast. I guess lowering the resistor value should slow it up? Maybe I should try a 150k, 160k, or 180k?
Hhmm - not so easy for me to swap these resistors - I can't really see what I'm soldering, even with my +2.75 glass's.
Have a play around with the firmware settings instead maybe, try going down with the timing to like 50 or something and see if it’s a bit slower. I didn’t adjust anything in firmware so I’m not exactly sure how those settings will affect things with the pulldown resistor in place.
And no I think a higher resistance value will make it go slower, slower dropoff in voltage = longer off timing by default.
Oh crap, couldn't wait.. Tried a 150k and hard to notice a difference, maybe it's even quicker... So, maybe I'll try a 300k. it seems ok to remove the old one, put on a new.. I got a ton of those FT resistors -- 150k, 180k, 200k, 220k, 300k in this range.
Edit: Ok, 300k is much more reasonable - I can actually pull off the battery wire bout 2 cm's away very quickly and it still cycles to the next mode, which is better than with the 200k. Thinking bout 450k would be better, might be ideal.
Those FT smd resistor packs really are fantastic!
Crap, just realized, when I use a 180K resister I’m using a 2.2uf cap, sorry about that, should of figured a lower cap need’s a higher resistor. I’d say 400K would be a good guess, half the cap double the resistance.