($7 delivery price)Cree T6 1000-Lume Led headlamp from Myled.com

Thanks the. Picture speaks a thousand words.

Just did that for another lamp:

=> 2 modes: High->Low->Off :)

Thanks the

I can confirm that that works as I tried some tinfoil :slight_smile: But I couldn’t get it to work with pencil and I don’t know how to solder, so I guess that’s the end of the road for me.

Sorry for the previous too terse post. You want to pull the logic level high at that pin, don't physically pull the pin! Technical discussions always tend to use shorthand that loses newbies.

You don't need a 0 ohm connection like a wire, the pin has some connection to ground through an internal resistor pulling it low (towards 0V). Connecting it to B+ or S+ through a suitable resistor will signal a logical true (1) state. Without the specs of the chip we can simply use a wire which will draw a little more current, or lay down a line of graphite until it conducts enough to provide a logic 1 at the pin. The difficulty is writing on the PCB's green coating and getting into any sharp corners or depressions a PCB may have. I had to go over the path quite a few times on this one, and the first 2 times spread too far over to pin 6 and lost low mode and had to erase and start over. Not the end of the world with just a pencil mark.

I like to use a pencil mark for this sort of thing wherever possible because, 1. it's easy and very easy to undo, and 2. whenever I pick up a soldering iron, drivers die.

The pencil mark is working fine on mine, Hi-Lo-Off. It is hard to write on the glossy surface and the solder may have a thin oxide layer on it, rub well on the solder to make good contact.

Either rub harder, as explained by Gj, or buy some conductive paint (easier to get it working, but have to wait it drying..) It might be quite expensive, but lasts long in this kind of usage.

Try a different pencil. This is cheap and easy. Well, easier and less risky than soldering. There's also conductive paint pens, even available at Radio Shack, but cost ~$10.

Cross posted.

Did it with soldering on two other similar lights. Not exact same circuit, but same CX2812 chip. It works, of course

Thanks _the_!

Great that it worked well for you! But don't thank me, thank WarHawk-AVG, who brought up the schematics (post #107) :)

Ok, thanks to both then ;-)

Takes an entire forum to move some of us along. :stuck_out_tongue:

Removed the little charge connector and used a bit of that wire to do the remove-strobe mod. WORKS!
Thanks guys.

padded the cover with tool liner for comfort and added a dab of hotglue to the switch boot to make it easier to operate.

Pencil mod didn’t work, I had to solder a wire.

Me neither and I tried hard, pretty near wore out a #2 pencil.

I was able to do it with a different pencil. :party: H) :crown:

I will count this as my first mod. :bigsmile:

hot discussion here

#2 is a fairly hard lead, a glossy surface won't rub off much graphite. See if you can find a softer lead pencil, maybe an art store? It's worth the trouble, there's nothing else as inexpensive, easy to change later, no chance of burning yourself on a soldering iron, no toxic lead or flux.

You'll still want a soldering iron for lots of things but a pencil is surprisingly versatile.

(Some pencil leads, mostly for mechanical pencils, have polymers for added strength.)

Only problem with this light is.... a really bad mark on the top of the LED.

This was a pain to do with a pencil so I soldered a wire and of course jumped two legs on the chip and ended up with a one mode light ...HIGH. I tried digging between the two pins with a pin and an excacto knife and finally went back and unsoldered the wire ....(then broke the leg off the chip ).Don't ask me how I soldered onto virtually nothing ,but I did and it;s working .:P

All and all a nice light for the price.

Seems like an easy light to make into a cheap bike light

need to find a better pencil

P.S. A signalling wire doesn’t have to be thick, I see some soldering huge thick wires on those pins

Good on you for getting it working the way you want it though :slight_smile:

Exactly. Wound wire from toy motor would work great as signal wire, need no insulation, and set you lifetime supply from one motor salvage.

Just dont steal it from your crying kids, thats not cool. :slight_smile: