You can use DC Fix Film or something like it. They usually sell it in rolls, but this guy sells small sheets: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?246875-Phaserburn-s-Diffusion-Film-DC-Fix-CPF-Service
Thanks. I would take the cells to a proper charger, though.
thanks, they have the same stuff at Hobby Lobby here and they sell them in letter size sheets.
12 days from the 10th to south/east in lower 48. Waxed paper worked well as was the brightest diffusing material in my arsenal and also killed the blinkies.
Strobe disabled with a pencil mark, sooo much better.
Thanks!
What exactly did you do to disable strobe?
Without some sort of external charge controller plugging directly into a 5vdc output will overcharge the batteries…this is why I was wanting to create a ATtiny type driver, maybe with 8*7135’s and then put one of those TP4056 charge controllers on the driver itself…an all in wonder kinda driver. ALOT overkill for a cheapo $7 headlight…but when has that ever stopped the tinkerers?
Normal people… believe that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet. 
Pull pin 5 of the MCU high. See post #107. Jumper wire or pencil mark to B+.
Since this switch is a smd or momentary switch? That means there is parasitic drain right? Anyone able to test how much drain it uses? thanks!
I put one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-LED-Lens-for-CREE-Lumens-Seoul-120-degree-Water-Clear-/110904742172?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d270111c
I put a better quality one that the one shown above. It has honeycombs to diffuse the
OK > confused. I don’t read electrical diagrams so I require exact instructions.
Post #107 is of no use to me. :~
Post #123 shows a wire from the “bug chip” to S+ and a statement indicated the strobe has been removed.
(Assuming that is a ‘Pin’, how do you know which pin it is? There must be a convention)
Post # 127 says [Pull pin 5 of the MCU high. See post #107. Jumper wire or pencil mark to B+.] which conflicts with what I SEE in post #123. I also don’t know what [Pull pin 5] means. I haven’t seen any picture pulling any pin anywhere.
Post #124 says [Strobe disabled with a pencil mark, sooo much better.] but does not indicate WHAT was done to do this and I don’t see any pencil mark at all on the posted picture.
I tried do a pencil short as in Post #123 and it did nothing. I don’t know if that means it’s wrong or an inadequate trace.
The legs of the MCU are called "Pin"s. Pin numbering is counterclockwise and starts from the dot mark (on top of the MCU) => Pin 5 is the one nearest to S+ (upper left pin of the MCU in my photo).
Pencil mark must be thick and continuous. Using a softer pencil and/or marking multiple times usually helps.
+1 for more clarity and detail about the tweaks.
(edit: Thanks the )
So the wire solder job on post 123 is simply wrong?
How do you “pull” a pin? Does that mean breaking it off? Then pencil mark should connect S+ to B+, correct?
No. It's exactly right. The photo is upside down (see board markings) -> my upper left is lower right in that photo.
Pin 5 is connected to S+ (which equals to B+ - see the trace between them)
No, and no.
Pulling a pin means connecting it to some place with positive voltage => the pin can be connected either to S+ or B+ (doesn't matter as they are connected with a trace = equal voltage)
Tried #2 pencil, aggressively, to both S, then B > no luck.
I assume that means the tracing doesn’t work.
Solder a wire as indicated to either S+ or B+?
Thank you for the info. Apparently I’m not the only one with these questions.
i will do this tonight to confirm, thanks THE
THAT I can understand.
I think my understanding is more lacking than your explanation.