You know I saw that thread & have even linked to it! Yet somehow I forgot it was mostly ultrafire BRC in that thread. :weary: :~
At under 1000mAh for each ultrafire… 2 panasonics would give better runtime then 7 ultrafire.
Just saying that HKJ's test is irrelevant considering that we could pile up tons of information on Ultrafire, BRC, LC, XLS, doesn't matter.
what do you think about this driver?
i can’t order from those sites that you post…
Yeas indeed.
But that does not matter, since you do not know when they give up on you, it's not like they are new, or real 18650 1000mAh cells. Safety first since we know capacity is something unrealistic with Ultrafire.
Good driver. You can get a single one from kaidoman, they ship internationally. KD 8x7135 V2 LED Driver 3040mA 17mm $4.79
it is ok i order from alli and now i get 5 drivers… 2 for this project and 3 for my next project!! 
Yes you can
http://www.fasttech.com/product/1122302-8-amc7135-4-group-25-modes-led-flashlight-driver-c
I believe hes looking for med,high. KD 8×7135 V2 says it does med,high. The fasttech one is low,high instead.
Forgot to comment that your battery case is really nice. Could get over 18 hours driving an xml at 1A with 7x panasonics.
thank you for the link… i can order from this site
Waterproof wiring bulkhead connectors will improve the water resistance of that power wire
http://www.amazon.com/Ancor-765002-Electrical-0-Gauge-39-56/dp/B000NI019O
thank you… i already have a connectors
Here how it looks at the end… and under water too!!
Nice 
What is the strongest led that i can by for my next cave lamp project…
i do not like xml t6 because of it color… i want something around 4000k
MT-G2 has a nice tint and lots of light. It becomes difficult to control the heat in a portable light at high currents though.
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_77&product_id=71
lumens to current data.
For spelunking you probably need a neutral white, 80-90 CRI emitter. XM-L2 comes in the colors you need. Bins are the same for XM-L2 and XM-L:
IO has a few high CRI tints and lists the CRI for each one. The copper MCPCBs are good for extra lumens (less voltage sag due to heat), which is need since the neutral tints are achieved with phosphor coating of the emitter, resulting in less light output. But in a cave where natural color is vital to depth perception, lumens are going to be secondary.
I use KD 8x7135 V2 LED Driver 3040mA.
what i need from you people to explain me is:
for exemple i have a switch with 4 pins: p1 p2 p3 p4
1 position it connect p1 to p2
2 position it connect p1 to p3
3 position it connect p1 to p4
I want that 1position is low, 2position is midle and 3position is high.
the problem with this driver ,like all the other driver’s, it switch modes by making a small cut in electric circle. can i remove a IC that regulate that modes and put a resistor between my switch and driver or something like that…
Did you find you have room for 2 drivers? You could wire your switch to select a number of 7135 chips. One full KD 8x7135 driver for high (ic bypassed). 3x7135 on a second driver for med (~35). 1x7135 for low (~12).
The second driver would be thinner, chips only on one side. 4* AMC7135 single mode Driver You would cut one trace to isolate the 4th chip so it could be used for low mode.
All of these multi-mode 7135 drivers create med & low by pulsing its full current on/off faster then our eyes can see. About 30% on for med, 5% for low. Bypass the controller ic and you get just get full current.
ok people drivers arrived today and i finish my Petzl Duo remake. the result is good light.
now i see what do you think when you say this battery sucks. on full power (3A) with 7 batteries only 3h 
i am collecting money for philips batteries
Phillips batteries?? Get some nice Panasonic 3400mAh NCRBs, no idea what Phillips batteries are like, but Panasonics are great.