KawiBoy1428 : that emitter and this potted and modded resulted as 2500 lumens, 285k cds at start in a L2 host.
8.6 tail amps, 2.3 emitter amps
The driver builds up heat quite fast realy, it should be cooled properly
Whitch brings our favourite host to a whole new level
Have to find a decent L6 driver though
Tn42 will be the next to mod!
Those i got from Arrow Europe, Cutter is kinda away plus Arrow also got those here.
Mitko, just build a driver adapter out of aluminum, or my favorite copper rings! The heat sinking with the copper rings is substantial, I run the LD-2 17mm at 12+ amps in the L6 using the copper ring adapterās!
Pretty impressive L2, little light with a big powerful long throwing beam!! :+1:
I think there is still some silicone left there X3 , weird actually .
I only use hot dedome for xp-g2/xm-l2/xp-l now , quick and easy ! Also i think most of the times , tint is better than gas dedome ( tested it with some identical leds ) .
And with an AR glass the tint drops from 1A to something like 2B, pretty sure most f BLFers will like it, pretty cold for my taste though yet ppl like cold lights
Yes, dding using pure gas changes the tint , however i aitn using gas for that
Last C8 XPG lights came out 190k+ wondering should i post them in the sell section :money_mouth_face:
Now that is ārealā emitter for single cell fet lights, and the best de dome method.
I am following plenty of post from our dear members here and Hot dedome :person_facepalming: Mitko also though that this is the āright and only good oneā.
So I am glad that you change your mind regarding this cause hot de dome is real mess no matter if you de dome seconds after reflowing or by crappy 18650 dd battery method.
You havenāt heated it enough.
I use heat until solder unter led is melted, I wait a few seconds to get solid again and then I lift the dome with the tip of a sharp knife.
It is the far worst de-doming method even famous modders that swore about it abandoned it.
You guys can de dome the way you like but I know(since I tried all) which method is the best for me and I have same results like Mitko or MEM from this thread. You can de dome with plenty of solvents but the key is hot or heated solvent not cold(although it works even this way just with more silicone residuesā¦).
So Mitko, Could you please share your awesome formula? Would love to know exactly what brand of chemicals you used and in what proportion
medical beznine Brand Concentration How many ounces
trimethylphosphate Brand Concentration How many ounces
kerosene Brand Concentration How many ounces
coresiline Brand Concentration How many ounces
At what temperature was the mixture? Did you dunk it? Upside down? Liquid flowing over the dome? How much time did it take? How did you clean the dome afterwards for silicon or chemical residue?
Thanks in advance for sharing such great information, you will have made a ground breaking contribution for the hobby.
Itās extremely obviousā¦
Why do you need anyone to tell you.
Pieces of dome can be left stuck on the die, dome can get burned, phosphor can get burned due to very high temps, phosphor can rip off with the dome, etc etc etc.
No, ideally you would only heat up the solder without heating up the LED too much.
Heating it does decrease itās lifespan just like with literally every other electronic component.
Why do you think they put temperature ratings on them?