You may and we know! And we know ILF well enough to trust him ;-)
(But not at 15$ they will)
18650 to 18650 but not enough to wet my undies nor impress me enough bang for the bucks to look down my nose comparitively on the A60.
It’s obvious to me by its design (perhaps it was with a deliberate purpose) that by default the A60 is a pretty unique light. The tighter hotter hotspot and primarily the lesser spill output of the Q5 than the XML gives it certain big advantages. You don’t want more spill in front of your eyes helping to ruin your now already compromised night vision nor do you want it helping to illuminate things around you that won’t certainly appreciate getting illuminated. I’ll let you deduce instances where illuminating things, breathing entities, whatever around you more than absolutely necessary could be very unwise.
Lights are tools to me. I believe in using the right tool whenever possible. The A60 is one heckuva tool.
+1 My lens was/is horrible it is cloudy and dirty looking.
That’s true. You won’t find a better thrower for less than $15 shipped to your door.
But I’ll tell you guys another good one to get for about $11 more.
The Small Sun ZY-T08 is another great light to buy. It’s the best $26 thrower I know of. I liked it so much I bought another. Add this light to your arsenal.
but if I’m gonna spend real close to $30 then I’ll just buy another TF X8 and it also has the option of an extra runtime 18650. But that’s because I’m familiar with it and its quality and performance. The X8 is no wuss either when it comes to throw. I think it’s a great all-around light and exceeds plenty on several levels costing a lot more. Also and one of the foremosts, the X8’s mode memory is just unbeatably useful to me. Once you’ve had it it’s tuff to go back.
I’ll prolly buy one of those ZY’s someday based on your recommendation though. I like the design and most of all compactedness.
Yeah I think it goes without saying there are better throwers… but can anyone name a better one for the same money?? If you can, I’ll probably buy a couple.
A sipik SK68 and a big fresnel lense. A while back I played around with one and got atleast double the lux of my STL-V2. Of course that was using a 3 foot by 4 foot fresnel lense from a TV. ;)
I knew sipik 68 was comin 
but I’ve never heard of that lens mod. Need to look into that, thanks!
It was out of an old TV, the giant fresnel lenses can melt pennies just using the sun. They really are a lot of fun.
Okay just for fun some beamshots shot on my iPhone 4S on HDR. Tempreature 6.5c on a windless clear night.
Lights involved: Sipik SK98 aspheric trustfire Flame
Jacob A60 SMO. Trustfire flame
Ultrafire HD2010. Unprotected King Kong
Target tower at 106meters.
Control shot
Sipik
Jacob A60
Ultrafire HD2010
Zoomed in A60
HD2010
Great shots! Thanks for sharing.
Here’s a nice Jacob A60 shot.
The a60 copies the mechanicals of the Solarforce M8 except with a cheap direct drive xr-e.
It more closely resembles the M8, yes, but the M8 itself is derivative of the Tiablo A10. The Brinyte D8 factors in somewhere as well.
I finally pulled the trigger on the A60. Been a long time coming. Glad I did as this light is considered a legend.
Did anyone ever compare this to a c8 or lumapower clone? Ilikeflashlights had beam comparison on his shed but the photos are down.
added:
LOL, I’ve asked this before and it was answered: I am thrilled by this flashlight: Jacob A60 15usd light. Thank you inside!
Finally got my A60 today and it is giving me fits.
The threads in the tailcap end of the battery tube are pure black, no silver showing, getting very bad connection.
Took the light out to the barn and fired up the wire wheel and scrubbed off the paint on the tube but now need to clean inside of tailcap threads as they too are pure black.
Pain in the butt to have to work on something brand new to get to function right but such is the world of Budget flashlights.
This light does not seem to like my new Trustfire protected 18650’s.
Is this normally an issue or is it related to the bad tailcap connection?
Put the old TF red/blacks in which are shorter and got some good heat going, this thing will throw just like they promised. Tomorrow I will get this tailcap worked out.
Sounds like the aluminium ring that screws down onto the switch was perhaps screwed down a little too far. While the threads on mine are also anodized, the very bottom of the body tube is not, and is clearly designed to make contact with that aluminium ring to complete the circuit.
Thanks, I saw that and tried to unscrew it using one of the test leads from my DMM but it is in there tight.
Will try with proper tool tomorrow.
at what distance is this shot taken?