AA Fans: New C88 XML @ Intl O

Today came my C88 NW from intl-outdoor and I did some test with this very nice flashlight, also some beamshots so here we go:
My first impression it's solid, little bulky as I was used to thin Fenix L2d body.
I like its deep smooth mirror-like reflector - looks very good! emitter is well centered with two plastic things, it came with
greased tail-cap thread and thermal compound under the emitter.
I only had to put some grease between head and body where it was missing.
As E posted it is indeed different from the Ultrafire version in threads and heatsink (I'll get to the heatsink later),
- I agree the Ultrafire is easier to mod and I would prefer that design, but this new version is not bad at all!

Okay, some measurements:
I only have NiMH AAs, and most of them are old so at first the tailcap readings were
low 0.05
med 0.2
high 1.0

and the true is that battery holder is also not much by default - need mod.
Interesting was that I could barely fit the GP brand NiMHs inside the body tube, I'm wondering how eneloops would fit. Could somebody measure internal tube diameter of Ultrafire C88? - just for curiosity.
Some other notknownbrand NiMHs from local market -which performs very well I was completely unable to fit inside.
There was only maybe +0.5mm in tube width missing, so for testing I wired external pack of 6 (paralell 3+3) and with
this got expected tailcap readings:
low 0.1
med 0.8
high 2.75

So here are few beamshots, distance to house wall is about 20m, all shots were taken by f2.8, 1s exposure, iso 100.


C88 Low 0.1A - in real it is little brighter, guess low light conditions needs better camera :)


C88 Medium 0.8A


C88 High 2.75A -the light output on high is really amazing!!

Beamshots comparison with Fenix L2D premium Q5: (output from xml C88 is much stronger than L2D, but this is still good light :)

L2D Turbo -the tint of the led in Fenix is probably cool white, color rendering is visibly much better with NW in C88


L2D High


Now because I was curious how the smaller heatsing in Cyclone will perform, and how effective will the heat transfer to the body be I did also this test:

1.left the original heatsink with emitter without change - as it came
2.put some grease between head/body because the heat was barely transferred to the head without it
(better would be some thermal compound but this will be ok for the test)

Current from batteries was between 2.75-2.65A, 3.6V

begin: flashlight temperature 24C, ambient 21C
after 6min: 33C head, 36C body
after 12min: 41C, 43C
after 18min: 45C, 46.5C

Temperature was measured with infra thermometer, the flashlight was laying on soft chair (so almost no cooling from bottom), was without tailcap and partially wrapped with tape to hold good cable contact for full amperage.

Picture taken after testing, current went down to 2.6A


I was positivelly surprised that even with smaller heatsink the heat was transferred very well across whole flashlight, in real-use the light will be better cooled,
applying thermal paste to body/head thread could also help a little.
So overall - good flashlight I think!

If somebody will try it with the driver more than 2.8A - please post results! I'll do it but do not have parts yet.
And one question - I'm not sure about the glass - how do I know if it's AR coated or not?


Good to have you here, jamio.

Welcome to BLF jamio.

Thanks so much for sharing all the info on the new Cyclone C-88.

Thank you for welcome! :) I've been around for some time but only watching. E thanks for measurement, cyclone is 30.5mm

Thanks, jamio!

Nice to see beamshots!
Btw, could you try to do some longer distance, lets say 100m and 200m beamshots?
Or is it impossible due to camera restrictions?

Okay, I've chatted with both Ric and the OEM. Ric appears to be interested and wanted their contact info. Maybe they'll even have some other unique lights he could add as well.

The pill is quite thin, but it seems to be adequate (at least) for AA usage.

Here's the first runtime / temperature test with brand new Eneloops (2nd cycle):

Nice 1h25min runtime on High with Eneloops. After that the light started flashing to indicate empty cells (no step down to low).

I'll test with 26650 as soon as I have more time. [Don't hold your breath]

veer, I'll certainly try, if the beamshots will look useable I'll post them

Welcome to BLF Jamio.

What a splendid entrance post to make. And I like you handiwork with the tape engineering to make a battery pack. Good work.

I hope you have as much fun here as I do.

Welcome to BLF, Jamio!!!

Promised some longer distance beamshots - so here they are :)

I used 3 marks on the right side of the road: 50m tree, then 100m first polystyrene plate (size cca.1,3 x 0.7m), 200m second plate.

Shots were taken at iso100, f2.8, 1s exposure, flashlight at high 2.75A. On first ist white set to "autobalance", for the others I changed it to predefined "cloudy day" - so the color of light is closest to reality on the first one. The other shots are of course not so yellowish in real, but hope enough to compare.



Just before I went back I thought it would be interesting to compare it to the car headlights

car headlights on low


C88 on high


car headlights on high


mio

Cool, thanks!

Thanks for the great beamshots!

I thought this light was more of a thrower based on the specs and the reflector, but it looks more floody - or at very least spot+spill.

Is it as floody in the pictures as it is in real life? Is the hotspot in the pictures realistic?

Also, is there a diffuser that you know of that can turn this into a great hanging camp lantern?

Trying to figure out if I should go ahead with a purchase for this light. I've been actively searching for a flashlight that I could use to easily spot things in the park outside at night. I've had a few unwanted visitors last summer who thought it would be fun to use our pool late at night. Would this light be good enough for distance and beam width? Would those of you who bought one already recommend them to others or are there better flashlights you would recommend? I had been waiting for the Zebralight Q50 but it's approaching 1 year since I heard of it and it's nowhere to be found. :)

Thanks for any advice you can provide!

Yes the hotspot on pictures is very close on how you see it real. From all beamshots I tried to upload the closest one to how I remembered it was looking outside.
I do not want to 'spam' here with too many beamshots of mine, but maybe for better comparison - if interested how similar scene would look like with 3 to 1s exposure, here are original size pics.
3s exp. http://u1.ipernity.com/22/87/06/12498706.887a1388.jpg
2s http://u1.ipernity.com/22/87/07/12498707.36ba0848.jpg
1s http://u1.ipernity.com/22/87/08/12498708.63dce5ef.jpg

The closest to reality is somewhere between 1s and 2s exposure, you can see 100m is without problem, until +-150m still ok.
I tried to zoom at the 200m point to better see amount of light, but couldn't convince the camera to focus there, it was too dark for it.

I think the whole feeling of light output will be better when the nature outside turns green. However, this light is definitelly more thrower than flood. It has strong hotspot but also (thanks to xml) bright corona on high, I would say if you need it for 100-150m distance it will do very well. Further the light is for the eye at this distance weak and it will depends on what you will illuminate. I note that my is t6 nw version, maybe someone with U2 could write the impressions. I'm looking forward to Foy's comparison between his modded ultrafire and cyclone, Foy do not forget please :)

Got mine today. Tried to get out the pill - in vain. It's press fit, as I could now see in the photos here. Even th driver is press fit into the pill. Bad.

Now I wonder how to get the pill out.

And how to get it in again.

It's press fit, but not very tight. You can use a hollow pipe to gently hit the pill from inside of the body tube. Heating the tube might also help.

Put the light in the freezer for a couple hours, remove. Use a hairdryer on high heat or a heat gun and heat the area outside of were the pill is. Push the pill out with a large socket.

To get the driver out use a small finish nail grab the nail with a pair of vice grips and twist it into the small hole in between the 7135 chips working it back and force until it enlarges the hole and inserts into the driver. Carefully pry the driver up and out.

Install the new driver by using a large channel lock and press it in. Freeze the pill again for a couple hours. Put the flashlight body in an toaster oven on the lowest heat setting. Use some leather gloves and push the pill in it should slide in easily.

Am I the only one who thinks that as far as transferring heat from the pill to the body, press fitting the pill like this is far better than threading it in? In threads, only the one edge of the threads contact each other where the friction is applied. This leaves gaps in the opposite side of the threads where there is no pressure/friction. You can fill with thermal grease but that is not as good as solid metal to metal contact. The press fit pill like this is solid metal to metal everywhere on the surface and much better. If only the pill itself had the mass of the original C88’s pill this would be a perfect design.

I am with you on this, press fit is going to give the best heat transfer even with dissimilar metals.