nice you took the time to make a review of such a thing 
Where did you bought it? Mine from gearbest if of a far better quality with double row saw and straight edges. But its still a gadget that is not really useful, apart from the bottle opener.
It’s a very sold multi tool, well it’s the moment of test it and give my opinion. 
Not always are Ganzos, Enlans, Sanrenmus and so!
That is from gearbest, in a offer, less than 1$ time ago. May be the actual is better, who knows…
I have this as well.
While most of the tools in this are not really useful due to low quality and price, the bottle opener is fine and the pointy edge on the “knife” (the can opener I guess) can be made sharp enough to open boxes (not really to cut them). Worth the $1 I paid for, if nothing else, to sit on my desk at work and open the occasional box that comes.
I would also mention that my “saw”, while no swiss army saw, is not as bad as yours though.
Yes, the bottle opener is the less hurting tool of the card for the way you get the card. My saw is horrible yes, wide steps unsharpened, it is :person_facepalming:
With my thumb and index finger on both sides of the axis lock, I can flip open (and close) my ebony G7452 with virtually no wrist flip. It’s kinda cool… Except I closed it on my pinky and man, that blade is sharp! Nothing horrendous, but remember to keep your pinky on the bottom of the clip so it stays out of the way.
Does anybody have any experience with the knivegg tusk? I’m looking for a cheap, inoffensive, small fixed blade for work… Preferably with a leather sheath but not critical
This made me chuckle 
So many knife have “drawn blood” or well gave me tiny cuts
A knife is only really your’s if you sacrificed some of your blood for it.
This was before i dropped it on my foot. Got lucky on that one too. Lol
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A knife is only really your’s if you sacrificed some of your blood for it.
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Then without a doubt, every knife in this house is mine lol. They all stay extremely sharp, if I can't easily shave the hair off my arm it is not sharp enough and is sharpened.
Preview of some knives that will be reviewed in depth in 2017.
xatu…for 2017 they ALL look good. Thanks for posting. LIKE ALL!!
As tribute to the end of this year, I made a few pics of the last knives recived in 2016.
First one is a very lovely Christmas gift from the Isle of Corse, made by a little manufactury named Coutellerie du Bastion Le Berger,
which makes tradinonal Corsican knives in some diffrent quality and price ranges.
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This is the U Tempu, with back lock and handles made of ram horn. Falling in love by the first tuch.
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Open length 18 cm ( 7,08’’ ), closed length 10 cm ( 3,94’’ ), blade length 8 cm ( 3,15’’ ), blade thickness 3 mm ( 0,12’’ ),
blade steel: Stainless Z100CD13 ( = 440c ), handel material: ram horn, spring with file work and shock absorber, weight: 122 g ( 4,3 oz )
The U Tempu is a really well made, very good working knife, with a nice finished, pretty sharp and solid rock blade, which is smooth to open easy to close. It also has an adjustable axis screw, which is quite rare on this type of traditional two hand knives.
But the real thing that makes it a little different and unique is the “I still havn’t words” sensational awesome smart, soft and warm but even grippy feeling of these gently grinded and the natural structure keeping ram horn handels. A kind of knive which is not available in China yet.
The secound knive arrived some days before Christmas, and the main reason for the decison to buy this one was again the material of the handels. In this case a beautiful combination of natural polished white bone with some well finished black G10, and at least a well known model called CRKT Carson M4-02 White Bone.
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( the overall specs can be found at a lot of websites )
For 37 Euros incl. shipment from USA (thanks to Outfitter Country) a fanatastic relatively leight weight (100 gr. / 3,52 oz.) EDC toy,
of course not in Europe. :confounded:
Wishing a fine 2017 to the folks on BLF. 
Thank you!, we will see wich are good or wich are less good xD.
Review Ganzo G7531-CF
http://chinese-knives.blogspot.com/2016/12/review-ganzo-g7531-cf.html
Happy new year! :partying_face:
Does anyone have any recommendation on how to remove a pivot that is stuck with thread locker?
I got a Real Steel H6-S1 for Xmas from a family member.
Out of the box, the blade was off center and the action not that smooth.
So I decided to take it apart, to first give it a good cleaning and then tune it up a bit like I do for most of my knives.
The first thing that hit me was when trying to remove the scale screws.
One came out fairly easily but the second wouldn’t budge.
I was able to remove it by having 2 T6 screwdrivers, one on each side and applying force on both sides. The screw was full of thread locker.
Then the problem came when trying to undo the pivot screw. It wouldn’t move. I applied a bit more force and it started to move slowly. I think I was able to move it maybe ¼ turn before it got stuck completely. I applied more force and ended up stripping the screw. Now I can’t turn it either way and the pivot screw is unscrewed enough that the blade touches the scale.
I have taken apart 100s of knives and have never seen a thread locker like this, it looks like these guys have crazy glued it!
I have tried to contact Real Steel directly but haven’t gotten any response. The problem is that this knife was bought in the US and I’m in Canada. If I need to return the knife to the dealer (which I haven’t contacted yet), then the shipping cost will be almost as much as the knife so it won’t be worth it.
I’m planning on making a slot with my dremel and cutting wheel in order to try to remove the pivot with a flat screwdriver but was wondering if anyone had any good idea on how to make the breaking of the thread locker easier.
Heat will break the thread lock, or at least weaken it. But be careful when applying heat to a knife.
You’d probably still need to apply a decent amount of force to unscrew it so making a slot with the dremel is a good idea.
There are a lot of parts for folding knives so you should be able to replace the pivot screw.
I recommend the same.
You should try to heat the pivot screw up with a soldering iron.