Click from off into stepped mode, long press from off into stepless ramping.
I may add:
four clicks - lockout; unlock the same
double click from off - turbo; single click for off
double click when on - turbo in both UI layers; single click for last mode used
The Amutorch website (and also their FB page) now indicates “1400mAh” 20350 instead of the previous “1200mAh” 20350. I suppose we’re the early adopters and they gave us lower-capacity batteries…
The UI of the E3S is a bit non-standard. But I have experience with their Amutorch AX3, which appears to be the same UI used on the E3S:
- whether the flashlight operates in “stepless/smooth ramping” or in the “stepped/group” mode, depends only on how the flashlight was turned on.
- if from Off: single-click to turn On, the flashlight operates in “stepped/group” mode
- if from Off: hold to turn On, the flashlight operates in “smooth ramping” mode
The UI has been described above (also gotten from Amutorch website), but there are a few bits not so well-explained:
- Turbo and Strobe shortcuts are always accessible whether from “stepped” or “smooth ramping” mode.
Turbo is via double-click, while Strobe is via triple-click.
- the highest brightness level in ‘smooth ramping’ is the same as “Turbo” level
- but in “stepped” mode, Turbo is not part of the regular “single-click” to advance brightness cycle
when the flashlight is in Turbo or Strobe mode (via double- or triple-click), then the flashlight will operate in this way:
- single-click will go to the previous brightness (or Off state, if it was accessed from Off), though it will not go to Turbo or Strobe
(eg. from Off, double-click goes to Turbo, single-click goes back to Off)
(let’s say flashlight is in Stepped mode, and in Low brightness; double-click goes to Turbo, another single-click goes back to Low)
(same with Strobe)
but if flashlight in Smooth Ramping mode, let’s say it’s in somewhere middle brightness, then double-click to Turbo, another single-click goes back to the middle brightness.
HOWEVER: let’s say flashlight in Smooth Ramping mode, somewhere middle brightness, double-click to Turbo, HOLD the button will not ramp the brightness (even though it is in “Smooth Ramping” mode, instead, “HOLD” will turn Off the flashlight.) [same with triple-click to Strobe]
Me again. What MCU is used in this light? Easiest way to fix the UI would be by porting Anduril to the E3/E3S, if possible.
Better still I got a board designed - it's on OSHPark. Not much time but got them in the other day. Only issue is the switch mount is slightly too far back from the edge. It's a FET+1 layout. I'm still gonna use it, but mounting the switch as tight to the edge as possible, without using the alignment holes under the switch.
Space is so tight in this light, driver replacement was the only option.
Nice. So, the switch is not seperated… Mine went flakey. Needed a harder push. After having the light some time on turbo, the problem went away. But we know, it will come back, sooner or later I will have to open the light 
This type of switch tends to get bent backwards after time, and hard pushes. I've seen them peel off the traces as the front of the switch pulled up off the board. Sometimes it breaks connection, other times it still works but you have to press harder, further in because internally it's pushed back at an angle. Unfortunately Amutorch tends to use these types of switches on their super compact lights, probably because they can be done in less vertical space, and probably simpler, cheaper.
I like the Amutorch's but do not like this switch type at all. To prevent this problem, I'll add extra solder to the front mount of the switch, and add a beveled pile of epoxy behind the switch to support it from getting pushed back. I've never had one of these modded switches fail.
Of course this switch type won't always fail, and I'm sure some are better than others, etc. E-switch's in general probably have just as many problems as the typical tail/mechanical switch. Like everything else but specially with switches, quality does have a cost, in terms of $$$ and space.
Great, thank you, Tom E, for designing a FET+1 board on Oshpark. I thought I would have to accept the not too useful UI on my E3 and E3S.
Which FET size does it use? Are the resistor values the same like on the TA drivers? Is ‘ind’ the pad for an indicator led?
You probably should let me test it out before you order any. I didn't design it, another BLFer, Quadrupel, did it for me, so unfortunately I can't even tweak or mod it. Basically he gave me the Gerber files and I uploaded to OSHPark. Let me pm him, see if he can move the switch further out.
It's a standard FET+1 config with the standard parts based on DEL's original Q8 driver design, as are all the BLF ATTiny85 driver designs that followed. Not sure which resistors you are referring to exactly. TA generally doesn't use FET+1 designs - he's known for triple channel drivers, and using a resistor bank instead of a 7135 for high powered drivers.
I have no clue about all this, so sorry if my questions are stupid: I’d order PCBs and then reflow components, solder Spring or Button and switch, and then flash the MCU. Is that right? I guess I’d need an ISP? Is there an Andúril port for this driver?
Well, how bout If a built one up for you - all soldered up, epoxied (better support) switch, running Anduril? What is an ISP?
But anyway, what you are describing is correct. I'm sure there's a stock Anduril version (.HEX file) to download that would match up to this light: FET+1, no AUX LED's, decent power of a triple. Hhmm, probably the early D4's I'm think'n, maybe...
Be careful, Tom! Soon there’ll be a line of folks requesting drivers!
So… what would you charge for one of them? :partying_face:
I don’t even have an E3S but I’d sure be tempted to get one if it ran Andúril!
Yeah, I know, all too well. But if it's just a couple, not a big deal. I wouldn't charge much, just enough to cover costs, maybe $15. Still early, and ordering boards can take 2-4 weeks just for me to get them.
Same driver for the E3 and E3S, so 2 birds with one driver 
I got one of each.
I’ll be staying tuned to see how your swap turns out!
I’m a ZebraLight fan and the E3S looks like a baby triple ZL to me. 
True - similar one piece body design like a Zebra, even the E3. Hoping to make progress on it this weekend.
Deal! 
Seriously, if you could build one for me too, I’d be more than happy .
Edit: ISP - in system programmer. Or so.
K, I'll keep my progress posted here. Think I was posting in a E3 thread as well.
Wherever the line’s forming for this driver I’m +1.
Frankly if the ramping UI would simply always start at lowest level, that’d be enough but going full Anduril would be awesome.
I did pm Quadrupel and he replied almost immediately and left me a new set of Gerber files for the driver with slightly larger diameter and the switch located closer to the edge. So I should order a set asap since it takes a while. I could still take an attempt with the drivers I have. Just think'n, maybe I'll simply solder on the switch, mount it, and see how the switch feels.