That’s a good idea. :+1:
Ok - I did mount the switch, tested it - felt pretty good actually!
Here's some pics showing the breakdown and the new driver:
With the driver removed. Nice they beveled the center hole, removing sharp edges:
a bypass would work well with this spring:
Tailcap logo:
I used this tool to pinch the switch in place in order to solder it down:
Tried to align it up even, it's close:
Done!
I'll be adding epoxy to the backside of the switch to help secure it, keep it from getting bent back. Not much space there because of the proximity of the MCU, but a little could help a lot. I actually had to trim some of the solder blob on the right side below in order to get the MCU to fit:
Switch is sticking out over the edge about the same amount as the stock driver:
Blank driver installed with stock screws:
One more top view:
Major components in place - seem to fit well. I'd use my favorite FET - the SIRA20. The rest of the parts all seem to be in the proper places. Notice the R4 and IND pad? It's set up for an AUX LED on pin #3. Actually a triple AUX LED assembly from Lexel would probably look cool in this tiny light 
Well, that's as far as I got this evening. To Be Continued...
Yes, AUX LED on pin #3, for Anduril C2 is not necessary, it is for experimenting to get lower moonlight, im using it on Zebralight like UI.
I ques for better contact anodizing need to be scratch here :
Wow 
Was wondering about that C2 cap.
Yes, you got a good point. Looks like the only contact point are the 2 screws. In the tailcap, the end of the tube makes contact with the spring directly, so should results in a short twist lockout.
Good to know about the C2 - was wondering.
Regarding C1, looks like it's connected to Batt+ after the D1 diode. I've been checking other layouts and the ones I've found from DEL, CK, and I think TA has the C1 cap connected after the 4.7 ohm but before the diode. Did you do this intentionally?
After or before probably is the same, maybe before is better. Already fixed in V2 for the peace of mind ;))
Ah, ok, thanx! Yeah, probably no difference. Maybe the D4 layout was like that - didn't check.
Looks like OSHPark has a screw up - the switch thru-holes came out coated, so the switch was grounded out. Easy fix though, just had to bevel off the edge:
So went ahead and reflowed:
You can see the clear epoxy - does turn a little yellow under heat of the hot air gun:
Transferred the stock spring, but now the LED+ wire is directly connected:
20 AWG, replacing the stock 22 AWG wires:
Installed, and it's all working, running my flavor of Anduril:
Didn't do the tail bypass yet. Also looks like I did't record any readings in the stock form (before) so can't tell how much better it's doing :FACEPALM:
Ahh… this button hole… 
Fixed in V3.
You fixed the direct bypass?
Ah, sorry.
You people are amazing
Nice work gents.
Tom E., if a small list will exist for Anduril driver, please add me to it.
I'll make a few. I should make up a separate thread to take orders. Will take time though - roughly 2 weeks from date of order, then another week or 2 to get them out.
I'll post a link here for the thread. Not sure of overseas orders, but US should be no problem.
This driver option now tempts me to get one of these… Wish there was a buck option like the Lume1, but alas, beggers can’t be choosy. Thanks TomE
Mine came in this morning, and it’s got my panties in a bunch.
I’ll see about adding pics when I find time, here’s the list of things I’ve noticed.
1. No lanyard ring included, just instructions in Chinese and a very small o ring.
2. Ramping driver doesn’t ramp. Read this thread in its entirety, google searched ES3’s which brought me back here to read a second time. Tried every combination of clicks that my not so bright azz can think of. No rampy. Just click click boom
3. Dirty black crap on LED’s, Looks like someone who didn’t know how to solder melted some of the plastic casing off of wires, and that hot plastic found a home in the dome.
4. Scratches off anodizing INSIDE the head, not a big deal, but I’m sassy now.
5. Threads in the head are funky, and chrome bezel has more lateral play then I’d like, it does make it easier to get off, though.
6.Grand finale, head broken off of the lone screw holding down mcpcb, which I don’t seem to see one in Tom’s pics?
Looks to me like I got someone else’s return, or at the very least, was assembled by the drunkest guy in the factory that day.
It do be bright tho, still a heaping pile of crap imo, fitting for the color I chose.
NotSoBright gotta NotSoGood. Yea, mine didn't have a screw to hold down the MCPCB.
Yikes, no lanyard ring?
For the ramping mode, press&hold from OFF. Then when it lights up, release. Now it should be in ramping - press&hold should ramp up.
I saw the SS (not chrome) bezel threads a little funky in mine, but don't recall slop space.
The mess on the LED's just ain't right. With just the lanyard missing and LED crap, I'd try to get s hold of Amutorch. Please try first, even try pm'ing them here.
I'll post beamshot videos of the Amutorch E3S compared with some 'similar' flashlight
(distance of flashlight to 'wall" around 18 meters or 60 feet)
1) Lumintop FW3A (3x SST20-4000k) [left side] vs Amutorch E3S (3x SST20-4000k) [right side]:
2) Sofirn IF25A (4x SST20-6500k) [left side] vs Amutorch E3S (3x SST20-6500k)
3) Lumintop FW3A (3x XPL-Hi 5000k) [left] vs Amutorch E3S (3x SST20-5000k) [right]
(for some reason, my FW3A XPL-Hi 5000k seems to be slightly less bright than other FW3A XPL-Hi...)
Received my E3S (bronze, 4000K) today (order #20072116591877). Cute little light and I really liked it for the approx. 3 minutes that it was working.
Within 3 minutes I was down from 3 LEDs to only 1 LED active.
Tried a few different batteries (their 20350 and two of my 18350s) and made sure the tailcap was tight, etc.
Looks like this one is DOA. I’ve written to Amutorch support. I hope they do the right thing and just send me another instead of offering silly partial rebates or asking me to ship it back to them.
-adept1
I was offered replacement parts, if I was willing to purchase another light to save them shipping fees… Which normally, I’d be ok with, but not after they reassured me that there’s no way I received a customers return, it had to be their work and theirs alone. So I’ll pass on the opportunity to own another amuturd
And Tom, my broken screw is actually a stud they use to hold the mcpcb in place, which I’d assume they all should have? The burned stuff on the emitters was just thermal paste,? And if I understand correctly, nothing is wrong with my driver, it’s just the updated version, that doesn’t ramp.
lol.
Pretty sure mine had no such stud - I think, now not so sure... I got about a dozen Amutorch lights of differing models and none came with any major issues, like those. Just ordered another E3S in purple - guess because I don't have a purple flashlight and it's my wife's favorite color.
Let me see, Amutorch inventory:
TC500, TC750, AL1, two X9's, two AX2's, two AX3's, AX4, E3, E3S, plus two JM70's sold under the Amutorch name. Might be missing 1 or 2. Amutorch is actually the same as the old Shadow brand.
The AX3, AX4, and TC750 seem to be gone now - short lived, but I really like them - unique dual LED's. I modded all of them, running Anduril now.
Here's a FT snapshot of some old Shadow models, same as some current Amutorch's: https://www.fasttech.com/search?shadow%20flashlight