Tom E are you making the anduril board? and are you selling them? If so I’d be interested.
I got the very first batch in Copper, and had no machining marks. I was impressed with the fit/finish even lettering. It worked well but got hot really fast on Turbo. I had ordered the 5000K and got the 4000K. Amutorch offered 35% off next light which I haven’t gotten yet because I like the E3s but was looking for different UI.
My front glass also cracked. Maybe it was too hot? I ended up replacing it with a Sapphire glass I had extra for an EDC18 and added a glow ring and gasket to mine. Interesting that the bezel from the EDC18 fits and screws on which makes the light about 1mm shorter if you are looking for the ultimate shorty.
Looks really pretty. And for perfection i ques its possible to “grow up” button top of the switch with hot glue or melt some extra plastic with soldering iron. I did not find this kind of switch with longer button.
With these little E3S's and the E3, no easy way to get the boot off, or get access to the back of the boot - E3 is about impossible. I looked at doin that type of mod earlier - ruled it out.
YogibearAl - I will be making and selling couple extras. I got one reserved so far - I think, gotta check.
Ok - finally got a chance to reflow 2 of the 6 boards received. These boards are about perfect! The switch feels just right, little tighter than stock. The driver is wider than stock as well so it's a better tighter fit. I sanded down the outer edge of the driver to fit it in using a rotary tool. The battery tube is about a 22.0 mm opening and the V4 boards are about 21.98 mm. So sanded down to ~21.5 mm.
I set this to 100C, warm up the boards, then use a hot air gun to fully melt the solder paste.
All standard FET+1 parts, but left out C2 (not needed), using a SIRA20DP FET. I buzzed out all connections and everything looks good - no shorts or bad solder joints as best as I can tell:
Transferred the stock spring to the new board:
Tomorrow I'll look at grabbing the latest Anduril 2. Not sure where's it's at for the moment.
And still need to add epoxy to the back of the switch for additional support.
Hey, that looks great. I always think the After Dark finish looks bad on the bare boards, but then it looks good with components on... I'll probably try it the next time I order something. Which will, in all likelihood, be well into next year.
Quite the perseverance getting that driver right. Ugh, I've still never grabbed an Amutorch yet, despite liking the stuff they're trying.
Took me a while to get to investigating this. The legs and 3 cups appear to match up to the Carclo perfectly. Sorry didn't take a pic of Carclo sitting on a E3S MCPCB but fits perfect. On the other hand, you can see below the E3S's optic is built up higher and thicker, and has a lip for the o-ring. The E3S doesn't use a glass lens, only the plastic optic, so it's directly exposed. In width the raised surface width of the stock optic matches the Carclo perfectly, at about 20.05 mm.
So, could you install a Carclo? Probably by adding a glass lens and using the stock o-ring. Maybe you can use a thicker triple PCMCB as well. There are ways I'm sure, just fiddling with the height to get a tight fit.
for someone trying to make a super small flashlight it makes you wonder why they chose this abomination. Just use a fake carclo and no glass why add this extra height?
It's like they designed the light for a Carlco and glass lens, then later realized they can make or get their own custom optic for a lot less and eliminate the glass. I imagine Carlco's aren't cheap over there.
This design is incredibly frugal in height, though still has a large side switch button - amazing job. Just wish I could get a 21350 cell that has a little more kick/capacity than the 20350 available. 21350's will fit.
Thank you, Tom E, for confirming that the E3S uses another optic. I have compared it to a Convoy S2+ triple with Carclo 10507 optics and wondered why the beam looks different. The Amutorch optic makes some sort of a triangle beam, I like the Carclo optics much better.
I may try to put in an original Carclo and add a copper piece to gain height. Also, designs with glass lens over the optics are way better because the optics scratch easily.
Is the V4 Anduril board ready to be ordered and used after you have tested it? Do I need a R4 resistor if I want to use aux leds?
You guys are correct! Even my earlier purchased E3S in copper color had a separate glass lens and the optic looks to be a standard Carclo. The later purchases purple and blue ones have the custom optic and no glass. Looks simple though to convert back to Carclo if you have the right size glass. They made another change - added a screw and a hole in the MCPCB to keep the MCPCB from turning. See it here:
Actually my first version of E3S did come with original carclo and a glass. In fact my glass cracked after running it on high for a bit, so that could be the reason why new ones don’t have a glass on it. I replaced the glass with a piece of sapphire glass I had on hand for a EDC18 mod. Fits perfect.
The EDC 18 also came with a slightly frosted optic of its own, but many put in carclo with a Sapphire glass. Like I mentioned in the other thread the bezel of the EDC18 fits on the E3S to make it even slimmer.
23mmx1.2mm Sapphire. I have used flat or 1 side domed.
Wondering how well an XPL-HI in here would be. Less heat and longer run times? I have a spare XPL-HI on noctigon that may be a good candidate to try.
Any chance of a components list for the driver you’ve created? I have a 3E on order from neal’s black friday collection and this seems like a relatively simple driver for a first attempt build.
These look like they might be a LEDIL SATU. If they are 8.86mm tall from the mcpcb up (ie not including the thin part of the legs), then they just might be. Too similar…
How is the beam? Anyone able to get a lumen tube measurement and compare to Carclo? I tend to see better performance from LEDIL products.
Also, if anybody has one in the US they want sell me, PM me please.
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