I realise that this requires a 2-level switch, but that’s why I’m EDCing an MH20. Press’n’hold halfway for moonlight, press’n’hold all the way for turbo, simple click for the last brightness level it memorised. No mistaking anything, and depending what I’m using it for, I typically default to one of the first two activations, rarely the third (which is still guess-the-mode).
My Cometa, I have it always start on lowest, so I can click brighter or long-click backwards to turbo.
Other lights that have memory but few if any shortcuts, well, at this point they tend to not be my EDC lights anymore.
I like predictability. I’d always dial down my lights to minimum after I’d be done using them, so I wouldn’t get an unpleasant surprise in the middle of the night. It was an extra step, but worth it. Now, when looking through a closet or something where you’d turn a light on’n’off a dozen times or more, no-memory would be a chore.
And such is the problem trying to design a one-size-fits-all UI… it ain’t gonna happen. People will be using their lights for different things, and have different requirements. So, bistro in my Cometa is nice that I can reprogram which modegroup, memory on/off, moonlight on/off, etc., but in lights with side-clickies or both side- and tail-clickies, it gets cumbersome.
And so, while I still keep my SP32Av2 on my bag, I EDC my MH20 in my pocket. Its UI is just more versatile.
I’m not, but SWAT is pretty tactical and you prove my point. A single e-switch or a forward switch is probably more tactical. This fancy dual switch is “tacticool” though, and I don’t have a problem with that. Just dont need to have it on more than 1 or 2 models.
Agreed. A tactical light is a one-use tool (knife, screwdriver, pliers, etc.), whereas an EDC is more like a multi-tool or Swiss-Army knife.
The Nitefox UT20 does this just fine. Side-clicky to set the mode, rear forward-clicky to turn the light on/off, with momentary-on so you can do a flash’n’dash very easily.
Even though it’s a bit of a moose, I was EDCing that for quite a while.
And I do exactly that, ie, having different lights for different tasks.
But now, as I mentioned the MH20 before, I kinda don’t have to do that anymore. One press’n’hold to turbo sets the mode, and click on/off keeps it in that mode until I change it. Or, I half-press’n’hold to moonlight, and only dial-up as needed.
I think Sofirn want to keep things simple, so they can’t do dual pressure switches or e-switches/dual switches in the tail (like Nitecore TM03). They can’t sell them at $70+ dollars either. Price should be under $25.
If they can make the 26650 sized SP33 v2.0 with a boost driver and 50.2 for $22, they can probably make a smaller 21700 version with an xpl or maybe the 3v xhp50.2 for about the same price. (I really don’t know how they can make a profit at $22).
If designed right, it can be:
A. A good selling light
B. A popular 21700 host
C. Gives us that 21700 flat tail cap so many want
They might have to leave out built-in charging because that adds cost and complication as far as swapping drivers. Maybe it can be there as long as it is seperate from the driver and universal in design? That would be a nice bonus and I would pay more for it (if designed right).
Right now, all 21700 tube lights are over $80. Too expensive to use as a host. Also kinda too expensive for a complete light, in my opinion.
Totally agree with you. That’s exactly what I’m looking for too. There are so many single button 21700 out there already but no rear plus side switch besides the Mateminco TK01.
I’m ok with the 5000K, but 2700K is just to warm for my taste. The 3400K of the Yugi in the Sofirn C01 is on the bottom edge of what I would want in a light.
