Been said around these parts, mix the epoxy about half’n’half with regular AS5. It’ll still stick, but will be “diluted” just enough to not become an unbreakable bond.
+1 for 21700 cell sized C8. The extra runtime is a plus on outings and my 30qs have to be replaced soon anyway. Might as well take the plunge with a proven platform with the new cell size.
LL.
I like my SP32Av2.0 lights, but I wish all the familiar things mentioned here would be taken to heart by Sofirn.
The beam from the XP-L2 is one thing I’d like to improve, but…glue. I have tools, and fix my own stuff, but am not serious enough about light modding to get more tools just to disassemble a darned light. I’ve also been mulling an SP33, but am discouraged from buying one because of the same issue, so that’s one potential sale that won’t happen.
Rationalizing the model lineup/nomenclature, and ceasing to mix the modifiers would also be simple, and lead to less potential confusion. Or try for some logic and consistency at least. Why does the lineage of the SP32 first get an “A”, and then an “A v2.0” but not a “B” instead? Why doesn’t the new version of the SP33 get any distinction to help people discern the difference from the model name? This is fundamental marketing , not Harvard Business School case study material.
I’m not sure how AX’s seller back end runs, but I’m also puzzled as to whether it’s a limitation of the system, or some strategy on the part of sellers to increase sales by listing items multiple times, with slightly differing prices, even within your own store. Add in slightly different versions (new/old) of the same item, and it can be a pot of confusion, even for those here who keep up with developments. Innocent bystanders have little chance, and either have to play sleuth, or give up for fear of ordering the wrong item.
Making things confusing, or difficult for potential customers is not good for business.
I guess sofirn can make some models without glue but not every model.
The reason why sofirn use glue is retaining ring might get loose after long time shipping or using
When the light won’t turn on, common users won’t try screw the retaining ring and clean contact etc, they just complain and return, expecially on amazon where is easy to do.
Plus any other reasons for returns, the return rate is easy to go beyond the line which cause amazon listing inactive…… 
models name is a historical issue.
SP33 XHP50.2 version is named just SP33 is because the old SP33 is discontinued and SP33 V2.0 is too long for Searching.
I hate to type the model like SP32A V2.0 or SP31 V2.0 which are too long but these names are already used, change it will cause more issues.
So, I think sofirn will name different versions of the model like SP40A and SP40B or like C01 and C01S
More suggestions are welcome.
Theres no real need to remove the driver on the SP33, so the glue is irrelevant.
I popped my driver out just to show people the Boost design.
I also show how easy it is to pop the driver out (if you want to).
It is an amazing light for $22.
Thanks for taking that onboard Barry, really appreciate it. There’s a few of us working on a spreadsheet, we’ll workshop some ideas.
Sadly… I can completely understand this. 
. :+1:
I have received a SP36 and the light color is horrorbil cold white or lets better say blue white. The hotspot is blue the spill is white or verry little yellow.
Now I don’t know if I sell it or if I want to change the emitters. But I have to remove the driver first like djozz has shown. And thats realy hard and I hope I will not damage the light and driver.
Unfortunately that’s the main reason I haven’t purchased the SP36 because of the glued driver and no bezel to be able to easily remove the MCPCB and swap out the emitters. I ended up just getting a Sofirn Q8 (already have the BLF Q8) and will swap in some 4500K XP-L HI’s once it arrives. I wouldn’t mind the glue so much with the SP36 if the emitters were good. I haven’t felt the need to swap the emitters in my original BLF Q8, so it has remained untouched.
Has anyone compared the glue on Sofirn lights to the Astrolux ones? The MF01 was glued pretty tight but I got it open with two strap wrenches without heating it up 
Hmmm… that’s a bad break.
The color of my SP36 is a beautiful Neutral White.
Neutral White hotspot with a very slight yellow halo fading back into lovely neutral white spill.
Never even notice the very slight yellow if not shined on a white wall fairly close up. 
I love this light…. :+1:
I dont exactly remember which thread JasonWW posted it in, but he mentioned that the final SP36’s didnt had as much glue as Jos his sample light.
He managed to get the driver out without too much hassle by putting some rods into the holes of the LED wires and some gentle tapping which got it out easily.
I ordered one as well, last week, i’ll see if it’s angry blue with the typical XPL2 yellow/greenish corona (I hope not).
@barry
is there any chance to buy spare parts from sofirn, such as replacement DTP’s with pre-soldered emitters?
Sorry, I don’t have a SP36. I was talking about the SP33. I know very little about the SP36.
That makes sens, as the SP36 has a screwed emitter, so I can not put some rods intu the holes of the led.
That is how Jos did it: Sofirn SP36, impressions of a sample - #62 by djozz
OK, I understand the problem, why you decide to glue something.
But please decide to use retainer-ring an glue the ring inside the flashlight. This would be easyer to open for us flashlight modders.
Or use screws for the driver on bigger flashlighs, as on the Q8. This is easy to open too. This would be possible for the SP36 too.
Please find ways to hold your return rate low and to make it possible to change LEDs for skilled peoples.
Please PM me for any parts you want.
Wherever I used it, it was pretty permanent, it sticks extremely well to metal and even withstands reflowing temperature without giving way.
Does anyone know what is power source for Sofirn S2820? Is it replaceable? Thank you in advance!
It’s just 5cm long, net weight 30g, diameter 1.5cm