Thanks for your suggestions oweban. Maybe we can join our information into one chart. ;) Concerning the scale: I must confess I scaled them down “freehand” . So, there might be some deviation in the actual size by size comparison. But I can try to align this later on in case it’s worth the effort. I’m afraid it will be difficult to gather all CCT/CRI data for these flashlights. Mostly, these are between 5.700K and 6.500K and CRI is except for C01 and C01S - usually 70CRI.
I’ll keep the “notes” field in mind. And I agree something like “ideal for…” could be useful for indecisive customers that want to buy the right light for their needs. Maybe a “modification potential” row could be interesting even though I cannot say for sure how long this information would be valid. Small changes in the production process might cause big differences if a light comes glued or not glued.
Anyway, I’m gonna fill in as much information as I can get.
Edit: I guess I’d better start to put all this stuff into Excel. I started the chart with Visio but that’s obviously not the best tool to use.
Sounds good! It’s 10:41pm here so it’s almost my bedtime but I’ll try and make time on the weekend to make a bit more of a concerted effort to collate data.
No, that’s different. That’s some type of thermal epoxy that keeps the mcpcb centered and transferring heat even with the reflector not pushing down.
I prefer the thermal paste that doesn’t stick, but the epoxy can still be broke loose. Unsolder the wires and push them down the holes so as not to damage them then take needle nose pliers and twist the mcpcb. A pain, but I always get them loose.
We are referring to glued threads that prevent you from removing the head, bezel, retaining rings, tail cap, etc… Threads have a lot of surface area and it’s easy to damage the exterior finish trying to get it loose.
What brand Thermal Epoxy do you prefer ?
I need to do some work on a few pills that are missing the threaded plastic ring that would normally hold the MCPCB in place.
With a link if possible.
Thanks!
I use Arctic Silver 2 that I still have from over 15 years ago. You use a very small amount so it lasts a long time.
If I ever run out I’ll buy a small container of the new version Arctic Silver 5 from MTN E. I haven’t read up on this stuff in a long time, but I think it’s the best on the market. For $6 why not buy the best?
I think he is looking for something like “Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive” which is two part semi-permanent adhesive. The ones you linked are just compound that does not “set”
edit: nevermind you mentioned that. I agree though, don’t use adhesive unless you have to
side thought, i was looking up silicone sealer’s that had heat transference similar to the usual paist’s, was a while ago and did’nt safe any links. (peel-able like silicone sealer but very sticky).
Just checked out that stuff on Amazon but what scares me is most people saying “You’ll never get the part off” after using it.
If the emitter needs to be moved/focused this could be a problem,
Or if you just want to change to different tint or brand of LED it would be nice to easily break the bond.
Any other ideas?
. So, there might be some deviation in the actual size by size comparison. But I can try to align this later on in case it’s worth the effort. I’m afraid it will be difficult to gather all CCT/CRI data for these flashlights. Mostly, these are between 5.700K and 6.500K and CRI is
And I agree something like “ideal for…” could be useful for indecisive customers that want to buy the right light for their needs. Maybe a “modification potential” row could be interesting even though I cannot say for sure how long this information would be valid. Small changes in the production process might cause big differences if a light comes glued or not glued.
but I’ll try and make time on the weekend to make a bit more of a concerted effort to collate data.
