I don’t think it’s a mechanical problem…the driver’s behaviour is odd. If I double click on the switch it goes to the peak of the regulated channel and slowly starts pulling current right away. It’s not very visible but using my power supply that’s what it does. It’s almost like thermal protection is kicking in right away. And in about the middle of the ramp if I stop it, the light turns off most of the time. On the low settings it’s fine.
I’m not using a hex file I compiled myself - I’ve been using the ROT66 file since that seemed to work for Lexel.
Edit: So, I found the problem: I had soldered a 19.1K instead of a 220K resistor in the R1 spot. For the e-switch drivers, you need the 220K resistor and I forgot to use the right one. All good now! And my SRK is bonkers.
Andúril 2 is really good on the NOCTIGON K9.3, really good, starts in normal ramping UI and no silly ramp to max first then 2 taps for Turbo. I hope this is just about the finalised version.
Please please please don’t disable being able to turn off from Turbo!!!
You don’t need to ramp to max before double tapping to turbo, the light just needs to be on otherwise double click from off goes to ramp ceiling, which coincidentally can be set to turbo.
I know but Anduril 2 was designed to be double tap from max ramp to turbo as a safety feature. Toykeeper stated it was what the manufacturers wanted. Hank must have seen the light and requested otherwise.
Was ramping up intended to be disabled in sunset mode? It seems like I can only ramp down in sunset mode or double click to turbo.
Could you consider putting regular ramping in sunset mode so I can ramp up just a bit to see around me? Or even have the ramping up be half speed so you don’t accidentally turn it up too high.
A few months ago, I was about to buy a Sofirn SC31 Pro until I saw this thread. From what I can tell, reflashing that light is a bit beyond what I’m interested in doing and I would like Anduril 2 so I’m waiting for now. Any thoughts about when this light or something like it (I like the onboard charging, side clicky, and size of the Sofirm SC31 Pro) will come with Anduril 2?
For the price, nothing yet. There’s a chance you could get a modded one with anduril 2 for a slight price premium from someone on this forum. Anduril 2 likely won’t be coming to most lights from the manufacturer anytime soon. The only ones that have it so far are manufacturers who have paid toykeeper to customize a version for them as far as I know.
I have one I’d be willing to let go of but I’ll have to see how tricky it would be to remove the driver to reflash as I understand it’s held in by glue
Thank you. I was guessing it would be something along those lines.
I’ll go for the Sofirn SC31 Pro now and then get something else with Anduril 2 later. Unless someone wants to put Anduril 2 on one for me. I’m still new enough here that IDK what kind of price that would come to…what’s a reasonable premium for various types of mods that some people do here?
I’ve been reading the SC31 pro thread and I’ll have a go at it just for the fun of it. I have the 6500K version, do you mind or were you looking specifically for the 5000K version?
I was hoping for the 5000K version. I don’t know my LEDs well enough to know the exact differences between the two but with the few lights I have or have seen in person, I prefer neutral/warm.
Has anyone had trouble with flashing Anduril 2 to a D4V2 with E21As? I’ve tried flashing each applicable build (the KR4 nofet builds) several times with the same problem. The main emitters seem to behave normally, but the aux LEDs do not behave as they should and are unable to be changed. Reflashing the light to the latest D4V2.5 nofet Anduril 1 build puts the light back to behaving normally.
EDIT:
Simple mode got me. Somehow between flashing my KR4/playing around with it and flashing my D4V2 my brain fell out of my head. All is good now. Thank you to everyone contributing to this thread and to also to this fine software!
About two months ago I reflashed 4 (Q8, LT1, D4, and FW3A) of my 5 (not the GT mini, too hard to deal with the switch) and I really like it. The two features that are my favorite are quicker bat check flashing, and the 5 minute increment timer. I use the timer nightly as my night light going to bed, its flickering in candle mode, dying down, and poof, off. So nice!!
Has anyone tried out the voltage calibration feature yet? I did and I noticed some interesting results.
My brandnew Noctigon K9.3 arrived with a voltage offset between -0.10V and -0.20V, quite a lot if I may add. So, I measured the resting voltage of the battery (Samsung 50E) after it came topped up from the charger at 4.16V and put it into the flashlight. Here‘s what I found out.
Before calibration:
Actual battery voltage: 4.16V
Indicated voltage in K9.3: 4.00V (blink-blink-blink-blink ... short blink)
Assumed offset: -0.15V or -0.20V
Step 1
Calibration by adding +0.15V (10C in voltage calibration)
Expected result: 4.10V or 4.20V
Indicated voltage in K9.3:4.30V (blink-blink-blink-blink ... blink-blink-blink)
Step 2 - reset to default (7C in voltage calibration)
Step 3
Calibration by adding +0.05V (8C in voltage calibration)
Expected result: 4.00V or 4.10V
Indicated voltage in K9.3: 4.10V (blink-blink-blink-blink ... blink)
Conclusion
Adding a small +0.05V increment resulted in concordant values.
Adding a large +0.15V increment turned the offset of -0.15V/0.20V to +0.15V/0.20V.
I calibrated all 4 of my lights with Anduril 2. I don’t know now what voltage I felt the calibration was accurate. Today’s data:
D4 blinks out 3 and 7 3 times in a row, measures 3.61V
FW3A blinks 3 and 7, then 3 and 8 two times, measures 3.83V
LT1, blinks out 3 and 7 3 times in a row, measures 3.70V
Q8 blinks out 4 and 1 3 times in a row, measures 4.08V
The first measurement with Anduril 2 being 0.1 lower is something I’ve noticed a few times, not sure what’s up. Sometimes I guessed the battery was recovering from maybe a high output level, but that was not really the case for any measurement above. No top of ramp or max output. same output for first 2 clicks, somewhere mid range.
This data doesn’t really correlate with Lux Perpetua’s post, but I figured I’d throw it in anyway . . .
Especially curious if anyone else noticed the first voltage measurement being lower periodically.
