Anduril ... 2?

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1524

It would be on the TS10, TS25 and SC31Pro.

I have been changing values and sometimes, like for example, the temperature input, it is easier to do a reset, than to change the value again, it is many clicks to make a change.

Or if I have forgotten, that I have changed to see erratic behavior, I do the reset.

Once configured I would not touch it more, but the temperature, if I would like to have 55°C ceiling as Convoy and other brands, is the minimum for me, between 55 to 60° but 55 is ideal, I do not know the reason to use 45°C here in Alicante today makes out more than 35° at night I could not use it :sweat_smile:.

I think I could do it myself, I found the line where the default temperature is and it is at 45°C.

I also saw the automatic calibration, with an offset at 0.

Maybe changing this value to the correct one would raise or lower the value it uses after a reset.

An example if after a reset it reads 30°C when the real one is 26° then it would be an offset of -4 but I don’t know if it is just a value for the reset or it would subtract -4°C in all readings and maybe this is not good.

But 45° as a ceiling is very low that is clear to me.

As I said to @dmenezes I have not been able to test your 8C code because of health problems I have not used the mac for months.

I appreciate it and I’m in no hurry, as I commented I won’t be able to change the firmware for a while, but this way I have it ready. :hugs:

Thank you very much!!!
PS: I don’t know if you understand what I wrote.

1525

It might make more sense with some background on the history:

It was written for very overpowered lights with small mass and big heat… like the Emisar D4. This light quickly gained a reputation as a “nut roaster” because it could turn on in someone’s pocket and start a fire in their pants. This happened so many times that people began to think of it as a normal thing for new users. So it needed aggressive regulation and other safety features to keep it from literally starting fires.

Some lights also had a tendency to burn out their own LEDs, especially when using the Nichia 219C. Those had to be reduced even farther, to keep the light from damaging itself.

Early Anduril lights used the attiny85 chip, which has very inconsistent temperature calibration from the factory. It was known to vary by +/- 15 C.

With a desired maximum of about 60 C, the error margin means the highest it could be set at the factory is 45 C.

This allowed more companies to use Anduril without having to worry about getting sued for selling unsafe products… and if the default is too low, the user can raise the limit. So both the vendor and the user can get what they need… but it may take a couple minutes for the user to configure things for each new light they get.

On newer lights with better factory calibration, the default limit could be raised. I’ll probably set mine at 45 C though, because I don’t like to burn my hands or my lights.

3 Thanks
1526

Those lights should all use the t1616 so are factory temperature calibrated at the MCU level, so you don’t need to worry about setting the temperature calibration, just the thermal limit.

Try it - take two t1616 lights at ambient temperature, for best results set the thermal limit to 55, and put then next to each other on tempcheck, and they should be reading the same. Now take one, run it on turbo until it’s heat soaked and starts to ramp down, maybe kick it back up to turbo a few times just to make sure, then turn it off, quickly factory reset it, then go into tempcheck and it will still show the correct (higher) temperature. Leave it on tempcheck and watch it as the temperature drops, and as the light cools, it will reach the same (ambient) temp as the other one. Do the same with two initially correctly calibrated t1634 lights and the reset one will read way too low when it gets back to ambient.

Here’s a build for the TS25 and TS10 with a 55 degree default ceiling. The SP36 (used for the SC31) config needs updating before it will work with multichannel (@ToyKeeper, I’ll send you over any I migrate, probably going to do a few if I find the time in the next few days), so I’m probably going to do that from the next revision from this one as that includes a refactor and I’ll have to re-migrate it again otherwise.

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/SiteRelEnby/anduril2/0a1b3a432421d077db626b617f92f36963599209/spaghetti-monster/anduril/anduril.wurkkos-ts25.hex

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/SiteRelEnby/anduril2/0a1b3a432421d077db626b617f92f36963599209/spaghetti-monster/anduril/anduril.wurkkos-ts10.hex

1527

I have all my lights set to 45°C as well. I noticed the D1K with boost and XHP 70.3 HI likes to overshoot on turbo up to ~50°C before coming down again and that’s about as high as my skin does tolerate. If you have like half a centimetre of calluses on your fingers you can probably go a bit higher, I guess. :wink:

1528

I naturally have fairly cold hands, I usually set between 50 and 55 depending on the light.

If thermal regulation isn’t happening fast enough, it could be because your anduril verison is old - there were a few recentish improvements to the ADC code that made it sample more frequently.

2 Thanks
1529

Riiight, I forgot about that. D1K came with the 2021/12/13 firmware and I didn’t update yet because the new 0253 noctigon-k1-12v is hopefully coming soon. :wink:

1530

FWIW, with both my TS10 and FC13, I have raised the thermal limit to 50C at compile-time, with no ill effects. In the TS10 it allows me to have sustained 300lm output.

1531

No problem, my friend. And thanks for tagging me, I didn’t know this thread until you did. And I hope you get better soon!

1532

It’s chronic a bad time, worse or a little better, that’s why I’m less active on the forum :pleading_face:.

Thank you!

I didn’t know that, now it makes sense!

Thanks for all the information.

I started recently with flashlights and of course use new led and new flashlights calibrated to 55° but they hold that temperature well, uns S21A gets hot but you can touch it without burning yourself.

I had no idea that 15° of error is an outrage!

Thank you.

I will do that test and see what results I get.

If I noticed that the TS25 is accurate to the factory setting for battery voltage I was impressed.

Measured with a high end Fluke pro tester.

My SC31Pro uses the 2022-2-8-614 0614 sofirn-sp36-t1616 firmware.

Thanks!!!

1 Thank
1533

If they were in a zip file it would be better.

The iPhone does not download the Hex in the correct format, it downloads them in web or txt format without encoding.

I will change the encoding to see if it supports it.

From the Mac if it downloads correctly or so I think I always send and receive them in zip for that reason.

It already happened to me with dmenezes 8C.

Thank.
Pd: all flashlights should carry anduril never thought I’d say it but it opens up a whole range of possibilities for people like me.

1534

I confirm similar results with my TS10, FWAA and SC21 Pro.

I raise the thermal ceiling to 50C, and they also sustain about 300 lumens without making the light too hot to touch…

With stock 45C factory default, it limits sustainable output to about 100 lumens.

I have a lux meter calibrated to lumens. Plus I use an IR thermometer.

I manually calibrate the thermal sensor, With Anduril 2 models (TS10 and some SC21 Pro), sometimes it is only off by about 2C, but I like to make sure. The Anduril 1 models (FWAA and some SC21 Pro) can be off by 6-10C by default.

2 Thanks
1535

:+1:I actually think it was you that clued me about raising the thermal limit to 50C on my TS10, back in the old days when I still accessed Reddit… :smile:

2 Thanks
1536

Amen to that, brother! And not just for people like us, but for everyone. And anyone that feels uncomfortable they could get their Anduril lights in an unworkable state by random clicking, just ask and I can work out a “Simplicius” mode for them to replace the already simplorian standard “Simple” mode where they would have to click the light “I’m not stupid” in Morse with exact timings to get into Advanced mode :yum::rofl::grinning::crazy_face::wink::+1:

1 Thank
1537

I have found that you really need to wear (thick) gloves or wrap your light in a towel if you want to set the temperature accurately. Even holding an Aluminum light in your hands for ~30 seconds is enough to heat up the body and the sensor will be off 1-2°C later when the light drops down to ambient temperature.

1538

Maybe this was a fever dream, but did I read in one of these threads that it’s possible to make a build with aux LEDs on a second channel?

I’m thinking if some mod ideas… say the D1v2 for example. With the boost driver it doesn’t have a low moonlight mode. So throw a TIR in there, add some white aux behind it, and steal the aux power from the lighted switch. Is it possible to reconfigure A2 to be able to control the aux LEDs a little easier than with cycling through low, high, blinking, off with 7C? Can the power level of the aux be controlled variably like it were on its own channel?

1539

Thanks for posting. I had the same dream.

If it is possible to make the TS10 Aux ramp up and down in brightness, I would like to know how to do that too.

agree… I dont hold the light in my hand, I leave it sitting on a wood table… but even the voltage readout process can raise internal temp… so I recheck again later, after the light has been off for a long while.

bottom line for me, if the light is off by 1C, its close enough…

1540

Yes, that’s possible with the multi-channel branch. Unfortunately there’s only high brightness. While it would be possible to add low brightness as well, it will never be possible to get another brightness than low or high.

1 Thank
1541

In the default builds, RGB aux LEDs are included as extra channels, and can do all the same modes as the main LEDs. However… brightness in those modes is just “on” or “off”, because the channels don’t have the ability to ramp.

You could add PWM on aux LEDs to enable ramping, but it’d generally have to be done using software tricks instead of hardware PWM, because the aux LEDs are usually not connected to MCU pins with PWM functions. This involves catching timer interrupts and flipping a register, and the result is a little noisy.

If you’re willing to connect LEDs to a PWM-capable pin, ramping would be a lot more feasible. Basically, twiddle a few registers on boot, define another channel in the hwdef, and it should let you 3C to change channels and use the extra LEDs the same way as the main LEDs.

So the TL;DR is: Yes, it’s possible … but

4 Thanks
Accessing multi-channel features on TS10
1542

I would take that as a No… lol

Aux lights have such lousy artifact beams its hardly worth the trouble imo

otoh, for secondary lights with a clean beam… ramping could be really cool

for a light such as the TS10, maybe a single RGB mounted in the Center would produce a relatively clean beam to use for actual illumination.

1 Thank
1543

That’s a great idea IMO – even better if that aux RGB LED could be placed behind a TIR of his own. But right not I don’t think there’s space for that in the optics… :-/