The most important question is, what model number does your light blinks when you 15C?
With that number in hand, check Anduril’s MODELS file and it will tell you what HEX file you should use.
The most important question is, what model number does your light blinks when you 15C?
With that number in hand, check Anduril’s MODELS file and it will tell you what HEX file you should use.
1273 2123 11 31
But there is no model 1273 ![]()
I understood what was going on. The first flash does not need to be counted. Dm11 boost! ![]()
The short blink is zero. So it could be 0273 (noctigon-dm11-boost). And the date is something with 2023-…, of course.
I just checked with a D4K boost, and I can confirm that the model number at my end is indeed 0273.
Mine is 0273-2024-04-20; yours probably is 0273-2023-10-31.
O273-2023-10-31
My DM11 has the same 0273 file.
Hello, after countless failed connection attempts, even with additional power supply setup, I was convinced that my PD90S driver was really dead.
avrdude: error: programm enable: target doesn't answer. 1
avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1
Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
this check.
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Ordered a replacement driver.
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While waiting for the new driver, I read through SC31 Pro thread
and I found SammysHP flashing method
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I got motivated to update my SC31 Pro.
It has the same MCU as PD90S; attiny85.
It doesn’t have flashing pads though.
I failed with PD90S t85, which has flashing pads.
That’s OK. One failure not gonna stop me LoL
I’d like to try again, with SC31 Pro t85.
I have 2 SC31 Pros, if somehow I accidentally kill one of them in the flashing process, that would be the 2nd victim LoL
That would be bad. But I’d still have another one, still working perfectly. Wouldn’t be too bad.
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Anyway, I successfully flashed both of my SC31 Pros, now they run Anduril-2. Nice!
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Then my new PD90S driver arrived, tested outside of flashlight OK. Replaced the driver, no problem.
Now my PD90S is great again.
This is my brightest flashlight. I love it.
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Yesterday I flashed my PD90S (now with the new driver). Having experience with the old driver, and SC31 Pro drivers, I felt comfortable flashing the new driver. It has 2.54mm pitch flashing pads. it’s relatively easy.
Now my PD90S runs Anduril-2.
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NOTE::
My PD90S originally came with a rather weird driver. It’s Anduril, that’s good. But it has an unusual 1.27mm pitch flashing pads. It’s very difficult to get a stable connections.
The new driver has 2.54mm pitch, much easier to connect to. It’d be nice to connect with pogo pins but IMO that’s not necessary. It works well enough with regular header pins.
Flashing went relatively easily.
Of course it’s NOT as easy as 3-pin UPDI.
But it’s easier than 1.27mm pitch of the old driver, which basically is still easier than no flashing pads.
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Original driver, 1.27mm pitch flashing pads :
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PD90S drivers, original and replacement :
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PD90S new driver, ±2.54mm pitch flashing pads :
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New driver is good, PD90S works properly. But it’s still Anduril-1. Flashing Anduril-2 :
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AVRDUDE, Flashing PD90S t85, Anduril-2 :
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Hi SammysHP, thanks again for your SC31 Pro flashing method.
And my PD90S 15C :
0531-2024-04-20
0531 attiny85 mateminco-mt35-mini
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Congrats! Way to go! ![]()
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I am planning to update my Hanklight. For the hardware, will I only need a USBasp programmer and jumper wires?
Yes. Not sure if your pins will make reliable contact, though.
D3AA is not found via zflasher.
The connection is correct, tx and rx are connected.
I even soldered the contacts with copper wire and still no result.
What could be the problem? In the programmer? It worked before.
I tried to connect tx via resistor 302 (what I had on hand), no result either.
Try to use An other/shorter USB cable, it worked for me
I don’t use a usb cable, instead I have 3 adapters, all fully working ( I have already sewn lights through them thanks to usbasp =))
Does anyone have any other ideas why d3aa won’t flash? =(
I had issues with my D3AA using my original cable setup - I found a shorter cable of higher quality and it reads just fine.
I don’t KNOW that your issue is in your adapter setup, but given that even the Freeman can confirm it’s finicky with connections.
i got new D3AA, and there is smooth fading when turned off.
how to disable this?
this was not on ts10max
In advanced mode, from on, 10h, release on the 5th flash and then do nothing.
So impatient me trying to upgrade my Sofirn LT1S Pro using UPDI after upgrading all my Hanklights with USBASP…
I only had an FTDI (FT232) based TTL to USB adapter and gchart’s adapter was out of stock from jlhawaii and I didn’t want to wait for a CH340. Hooking it up with dupont wires pressed to the pads didn’t register a ping. I finally found out that a 1K resistor between TX and RX allows for communication, and then flashing works as expected. Ref: Programming Modern AVR Microcontrollers
Adding this reply here for future reference.
How to disable «aux color battery indicator after off»?
From off, 3c into battery check, then 7h, release after 2nd flash and then do nothing.