@gchart made sure “serialupdi” was the correct selection from drop down menu.
So thank you for your post, as I imagine there are others, who like myself will benefit from pointing this out!
This is a very useful tip.
Although I’m not updating the smaller TS10, updating the TS21’s Andúril-2 is still doable, albeit a challenge with regard to getting GChart’s Adapter Key aligned to the 21’s flashing pads by hand.
As pointed out in post #152, the problem with making solid contact between the adapter’s pogo pins and the flashing pads is that Wurkkos used different pad layouts for the TS10 & TS21.
So while making solid contact between the adapter’s pogo pins and the TS10’s tiny pads shouldn’t be too difficult, even for those of us with challenged dexterity, getting the same adapter’s pins perfectly aligned with the TS21’s outer two pads is no cakewalk, requiring both a steady hand and plenty of magnification!
So… have you been successful in your flashing endeavor?
I finally had a chance to pick-up a USB-C to USB-C cable today. Unfortunately, something still isn’t right, as I’m getting the error message, “Chip Initialization Failed, Check Chip Connection” after pressing the ‘Test’ button.
Based on that message, I disconnected & reconnected the Adapter a few times to see if it was a slight misalignment issue, but that didn’t help.
Finally, I emailed the ZFlasher App’s Developer to ask if there might be a compatibility issue with my particular android tablet, or with Android 13.
If anyone else has successfully updated their TS21 using the ZFlasher App with an Android phone/tablet, particularly a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 7-Lite (Android 13), please let me know what might help. Thank you!
“Chip Initialization Failed” means you’re one step closer! Your phone is talking properly with the programmer. But it’s not making good connection with the flashing pads.
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Based on your comment above, and with a USB-C-to-USB-C cable finally in hand , I have only been trying to make sure the Adapter was being properly recognized by the ZFlasher app by using the ‘Test’ mode per @LiquidRetro’s video.
Based on that error message, won’t there be an issue with trying to flash the TS21?
As a complete novice with anything related to computer coding, firmware, flashing, etc., I want to be sure that I don’t muck anything up, as I believe that I’ve read others have done by not following accurate procedure,
SCREENSHOTS
Can you do a photo under the head? Can I see the driver please?
I am not any kind of expert in flashing. I have done a few lights only. So take all of this with the proverbial grain of salt!
If the app cannot initialize the flasher’s chip, I can’t see how anything is going to work.
It would seem that there could be a cable problem, a socket contact problem on either end, or the board and/or the chip on the adapter is damaged.
Is there a way in Android to see if the hardware is detected properly? Port#? Baud Rate?
I had to get all of that set before I could use the flasher in Windows. Even the baud rate being set incorrectly caused failures.
Do you have anything else you could plug the cable and flasher into to test. Maybe a PC with AVRdude? Or maybe just to see if the PC properly recognizes the adapter hardware?
(On further reading, maybe it is the MCU test that is failing??. If so, I had that when I did not have…or could keep, good contact between the pogo pins and flashing pads. )
Agreed!
The 3’ USB-C-to-USB-C Power/Data Transfer Cable is brand new from Best Buy.
My Samsung tablet is only a few months old and the USB-C port seems to be in good shape. Nevertheless, I’ll inspect and clean it tonight.
The adapter arrived a few days ago and is solidly built with all components appearing to be perfectly aligned and reflow soldered!
Unfortunately, that’s a question I can’t answer!
Perhaps an Android/Samsung Galaxy tablet expert can chime in.
Unfortunately, I no longer have a PC.
Thank you for offering your assistance, which I sincerely appreciate!
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“Operation complete wit errors” is a good reply from ZFlasher…you are near
Alright folks, I need some assistance with an issue I’ve never encountered with Andúril-2.
I was finally able to get my 2nd Gen Wurkkos TS21 flashed with the following hex file update:
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril.2023-10-31.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex.
So I decided it was time to setup the TS21 tonight, which was going well with all functions working fine. Then I decided to try setting up the Tactical group’s Strobe mode, but was having trouble with getting the Police Strobe set. So I decided to take a break.
Despite plenty of experience with Andúril-2, including with my 1st Gen TS21, when I came back and checked on some regularly used functions, I realized something was not right when they weren’t working.
For example, when I do 3C from OFF for Battery Check, or 10C from ON for Memorizing the current ramp level, I get nothing.
- Although 3C doesn’t flash the 3 main emitters to signal the remaining voltage, strangely I noticed the switch button emitter does flash the voltage. Stranger yet, the switch only flashes one sequence instead of in a loop as voltage check normally does.
However, when I do 3C from ON, it switches between Smooth & Stepped ramping styles as it should, or 3H from OFF, it goes to the Strobe modes, with all Strobes working as they should.
So I decided it was time for a reset, but in spite of the light flashing out the reset sequence, it didn’t reset! I even used both methods!
After it took nearly 2 weeks to correct the issue that was preventing the ZFlasher App from working with my Samsung tablet, so it could finally flash the Andúril-2 update I wanted, now this! HELP PLEASE.
That is a relatively new feature. It can be changed by pressing 3C while in batt-check mode.
That is because you are in Simple UI.
Because the flashlight uses an extended Simple UI on request by the manufacturer.
The reset worked, but you haven’t changed any settings so far.
So to solve your problems, simply switch to Advanced UI by doing 10H.
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Thank you @SammysHP!
I hadn’t read anything about “Extended Simple UI”, including in the A2 Manual, unless I glossed over it, which with my eyesight these days, is quite possible!
If you can point to a reference of ESUI, I would be even more grateful!
Thanks again & Happy New Year!
The extended Simple UI just includes some features from the Advanced UI like strobe modes.
To avoid a repeat, what sequence of presses took me out of Advanced UI into ESUI?
Advanced UI → Simple UI: 10C
Simple UI → Advanced UI: 10H
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Wanted to make sure you know this as well; every time you do a reset, it starts in simple or in this case extended simple ui again, and will need 10H to advanced ui.
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I have couple more issues to ask our resident Andúril experts to help me resolve regarding the Andúril-2 hex file that I used to update my Wurkkos TS21. (Wurkkos = (anduril.2023-10-31.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex - 2023-10-31 15:1928K)
ISSUE #1) Going back to setting up my TS21’s Tactical mode group, I’m having difficulty understanding why the instructions for setting up each slot are contrary to the instructions for setting up the same modes in the standard A-2 Advanced UI. For example…
a) When I attempted to return Slot-1 to its default Turbo mode, I realized that instead of Slot-1 being programmed the way Turbo is programmed in the standard Andúril-2 UI, which doesn’t require any switch presses, this A-2’s hex file (above) requires the user to press the switch 150x (or 15x long presses). For me personally, I begin losing track after ~50 presses, which for me makes a full Reset preferred!
**Due to the logical organization of Andúril-2’s programming, the only rationale that comes to mind for someone with zero computer programming knowledge is that the decision was due to constraints.
ISSUE #2) The Strobes are emitting a relatively loud “clicking-like” sound, which doesn’t impact the Candle or Lightning modes…why?
Note: These sounds were not heard from the same Strobes on this TS21 before switching from the default Andúril-2!
The assistance of BLF’s resident Andúril-1&2 experts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
After the first 150 levels it continues with the strobe modes, which wouldn’t be possible if it was counting down. Holding the switch for a moment adds 10 to the entered number, so you only have to count to 15.
The high current pulses create audible vibrations in the capacitors, springs and batteries, especially when a magnet is involved somewhere.
Maybe you just didn’t notice them. They also depend on the battery type and voltage.
If it gets louder when you direct the light onto a surface, it’s also possible that the noise is caused by the photoacoustic effect.
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