I’m having a heck of a time finding an XM-L2 that will handle high current. Is anyone else finding them still?
I have some LED’s on order that I bought specifically because they came from older reels. I’m hoping to find that they can do it, but whatever happened to the fabled 7+ amp capable XM-L2’s? The ones I have all die between 5.2 and 5.7 amps regardless of the Vf at 5 amps. Although the best I’ve been able to find at 5 amps were around 3.7 volts.
unfortunately, Cree keeps coming out with BINS and new LED’s with significantly higher VF. Either that has to change or will will have to run multiple battery setups or run them at normal current |(
I’m OK with buying older binned emitters that are known to handle the current. I just don’t know of any confirmed ones that do.
XM-L T6 :bigsmile: 
Just don’t order one in a 501b from TMart!!! LOL
You are just 3 post away from a evil post count. :evil:
One of my custom lights, the German (Vinz) build Aespheric thrower named “Mjölnir” (=Thors hammer……) uses an XM L2 that is driven a bit above 7A, and it can do that until the batteries are dead.
How come? It would appear that Vinz has figured out a method to strengthen the bonding wires, which seem to be the week spot in XM L2.
The older XML’s had three bonding wires and can handle 6,5A no problem.
See my Olight SR91 modd with original driver (6,5A) and dedomed XML. I tested that lamp on turbo for 20+ minutes and it gave no issues. The lamp handled the heat excellent as well.
I would like to have a XM L2 with “bonding wires treatment” in that one as well, but hey, for now it’s fine.
Grtz
Nico
Nice, Do you have a link to vinz’s method of strengthening the bond wire?
I've gotten 6.3A - 6.6A on XM-L2 T6 4C's, a supposed new generation XM-L2. I know one is definitely from Simon bought in qty 5, and I believe another was from Richard (RMM).
Indeed, Simon`s goods are fine, i can confirm TOm`s words: either T6 4C, U2-1a or XLP V5- tested them all
O.T
TOm, test Simon`s V5 1A XPLs, they reach 5.8-6 amps with A17DD and Efest 4200 Purple, i tested 2 of them so far( out of 5): plus, overall mcds are better than U3-1A from IOS( but slightly) driven at 4.9-5amps
I’m glad to hear the T6 4C’s have potential, because I have 15 on order. Also some S2 1D and S4 2B XP-G2’s to see what the differences there are in current draw.
My stash of XML and older XML-2 1D and 3D’s. Mine, all mine. 
Fine, be that way.
What bin are your 1D and 3D’s?
How would a 1D look dedomed? I have a XM-L2 U2 1D that I bought from RMM last year that I haven’t gotten around to using yet.
Probably pretty good :), everything below the BBL & not to warm tint, usually looks the best, like 1A,1D,2A if you like a NW tint that is.
Some like a very warm tint, and then you can start with a much warmer if you like, the warmest i have dedomed was a 3A XP-L and it was pretty descent. But then XP-L’s dedomes nicer than XM-L2’s.
The concept of strengthening bond wires sounded familiar, but I don’t think there have been any tests in BLF. Solder reinforced bond wires? (Dedoming without losing lumens or color temperature)
It is really annoying that Vinz is keeping this a secret from the modding community 
But maybe that kind of attitude is normal at the other forums. Here it sounds very strange when i read about it.
I hope someone more forthcoming work out how to do it, both the stronger bond wire & the dedome without tint shift mod he does.
After blowing 3 XM-L2, I reverted to the XP-L in a TK61 this week. De-domed, the XP-L V5 1A is making 1842 lumens at 637Kcd.
Why mess with the new XM-L2’s when the XP-L will do what you’re wanting?
The 1D’s are U2’s and the 3D’s are T6’s. I have an old cast aluminum Allen dive light that’s waiting on 7 emitters. 
Vinz does not share this secret because he does not only modd lights for the flashlight communities, he also builds small series of (semi) professional lights, on order.
In that respect I can fullly understand that he does not whish to share his expert knowledge in depth with us flashies.
Strengthening bonding wirest and making any dedomed XM L2 shine in CW give him a competitive edge.
Grzt
Nico
Since the leds have no problem being dunked in gasoline for hours at a time , I wonder how they would react to being dunked in a copper sulphate solution plus copper anode , and wired up to electroplate the gold bond wires.Maybe that is Vinz’s method , or something along those lines.