Astrolux/BLF Copper A01 BLF Edition CODE NOW PUBLIC. $20 Solid Copper AAA!!!

[bladesmith3]

@ToyKeeper

@jon_slider

that is why when someone says they consider 5000k “pure white”, that just tells me they are looking at the beam during a time when their brain is white balanced to ambient light that is in the 5000k range. That same 5000k beam will look blueish when the brain, or the camera, is white balanced to 4000k, or less.

I find that anything warmer than 4000K looks very yellow to me even after I’ve had hours to adjust to it. My white balance perceptual range seems to go from about 4500K to 5500K, and common 2700K bulbs make my eyes bug out. Like, an hour or two in that kind of light and I can’t even see color any more; everything goes to alternating shades of grey like an embossed image where only edges and contrast stand out.

My 4000K high-CRI A01 is nice, nicer than my 4200K low-CRI Zebralight, but my eyes never quite adjust to either one. They’re just … yellow.

I am exactly the same way. i had to remove the 2700 lights from my home with the exception of the bedroom. I am much happier with cw lights.

[bladesmith3]

i wish these were available in xpl cw versions

[WalkIntoTheLight]

@bladesmith3

I am exactly the same way. i had to remove the 2700 lights from my home with the exception of the bedroom. I am much happier with cw lights.

Depends on the type. 2700K LED light bulbs look like crap. Same for most 2700K CFL’s. 2700K incandescent looks fantastic.

Cool white… :confounded:

[ToyKeeper]

@WalkIntoTheLight

Depends on the type. 2700K LED light bulbs look like crap. Same for most 2700K CFL’s. 2700K incandescent looks fantastic.

Nope, not me. Even at 100CRI, 2700K still looks sickly and yellow. Has been that way as long as I can remember, and I always used to have difficulty reading until I discovered fluorescent 5000K tubes. I can read comfortably from a computer or phone screen pretty much all day and all night, but an hour of paper under a 2700K bulb makes my eyes hurt. After a while, the pages look like this (including the rapid inversion):

Even before the grey-out and inversion starts, when things are relatively okay, the best it ever looks to me is like this: (the lightest part is supposed to be white)

[jon_slider]

I can understand how someone used to 5000k+ cool white light, will find 4000k warmer than the ambient light and unappealing. Generally, when a flashlight color temperature is lower than ambient, it makes a flashlight seem dim.

I like cool white in workspaces, otoh, I prefer warm white in relaxing spaces. My home is lit with 3000k Incandescent. When I use a 4000k+ Nichia 219b I find it looks brighter and whiter, than when I use a 3000k flashlight.

then again, waking in the middle of the night, I prefer 3000k

so, full dark adapted, when I use a flashligtht, I prefer 3000k
once my brain is adapted to 3000k ambient light, I prefer 4000k from a flashlight
adapted to 4000k, prefer 5000k flashlight

generally, I seem to prefer a flashlight that is about 1000k cooler than my brain’s white balance adaptation to ambient

The Nichia in the first batch of A01’s were about 4000k and 90+CRI.
Lately Ive started hearing that the current batch of A01’s are cooler and more “yellowish”. Im not sure what that means on a spectroscope as I have not seen a CRI test like I have for the prior version, thanks to maukka:

Im not yet aware of any 5000k 90CRI Nichias in the off the shelf flashlight offerings
its a trade off, CRI costs Kelvin

[ToyKeeper]

@jon_slider

Im not yet aware of any 5000k 90CRI Nichias in the off the shelf flashlight offerings
its a trade off, CRI costs Kelvin lumens

Fixed that for you.

For a 555nm green light, peak efficiency is 683 lm / W, but for a high CRI white light the theoretical maximum is about 260-300 lm / W. High CRI costs lumens, since much of the total power must be spent on less-efficient wavelengths.

FWIW, here’s a stock light with 93CRI at ~5700K. 5000K is more common though, like in the BLF-348 and Zebralight “d” series.

Jaxman E2 measurements (Nichia 219B, bargain high CRI 18650)

Edit 28.2.2016: The head can be removed from the battery tube. I just forgot to remove that sentence out of the review. 18350 battery tube can be used as I state at the end of the test. Disclaimer: Jaxman E2 was supplied for review by HKEquipment.net at half price. [image] 93 CRI 18650 flashlight for 25 bucks? Yes, please. The Jaxman E2 is not a lumen monster, but it has the highest CRI I’ve measured from a flashlight to date. 5400 Kelvins of pure white gloriousness. [image] [image] Manufa…

[hmihaylov]

I’ve had mine for a few months now and finally I stripped its coating. It started to age beautifully. And also feels very good in the hand. I started to like it so much, that I ordered another one - just to have one in reserve. Maybe I will keep it in mint condition.

[jon_slider]

@xevious

The UI annoys me though. I understand L-M-H, L-M-H-S… And there’s no memory. But the time in between ON/OFF to clear the last mode is very long. Seems like 30 seconds. And it’s not going back to previous mode — it advances. So if you were on bright, turn it off, then 20 secs later go to turn it on again, you either get moonlight or strobe.

does this copper light have NextModeMemory (NMM) like the new Astrolux A01 Aluminums?

Is there a source for A01 lights that have the original driver with NoNextModeMemory (NoNMM)

thanks!
fwiw,
the Copper A01 is on sale
Discount codes and link deleted, Ive been informed Im not supposed to share… sorry… contact Freeme and M4D M4X and Pablo and Banggood

[murman]

So, what’s the best deal to be found for this little light right now?

[g_sintornillos]

This is the best I know Collection Flashlight Spring Great Promotion - Banggood

[murman]

Thank you. I ordered one tonight.

[Qwibbles]

Thankyou - Ordered one as well

[let_there_be_light]

I bought a non-copper Astrolux A01 a few weeks ago and the visible PWM on medium mode is really annoying.

Does the copper version suffer from the same visible PWM as the normal Astrolux A01?

[arow55]

Not mine.

[Crazyeddie]

My +BLF Edition in copper has no PWM in any modes…

[let_there_be_light]

Thanks for the info! I’ll get one of the copper A01.

Do you happen to know where I can buy non-PWM non-copper Astrolux A01 or a non-PWM clone? I’d like to get a few of those as christmas presents, preferably at a price close to what Banggood is now asking for the plain Astrolux A01.

[arow55]

My recent aluminum one has pwm and cooler led.

[mortuus]

I want buy this light but not from banggood so what are my options?

[WalkIntoTheLight]

All my regular aluminum A01’s have no visible PWM (by eye or by camera). However, I bought these a year or two ago in a group buy. IIRC, Banggood changed suppliers, and the “new” A01’s are not nearly as good. So, I think you may be out of luck, unless Banggood decides to switch back to the old version at some point in the future.

It’s a real shame they switched suppliers. The A01 is my most used light, because I carry it everywhere. Perfect size, perfect tint, perfect mode spacing. I don’t think I’d buy the new A01, because of complaints about next-mode-memory, and now I guess PWM as well.

[mikeyx]

I’ve had 2 non-copper A01s and both have had flickering problems and eventually failed. I also have 2 copper versions (1 Astrolux and 1 BLF) and they have been fine. It seems like the copper versions have better quality parts or better quality control.

Mike