Disclaimer: The Astrolux S43S was provided for testing by Banggood.com free of charge
Tracking purhcase page: banggood.com
Non-tracking: Astrolux S43S Kupferversion 4x XP-G3 / Nichia 219C 2100 Lumen Mini Portable ED Sale - Banggood Deutschland-arrival notice-arrival notice
Note: this light is from an early batch and might not be identical to the final version. For example, the front bezel is crenelated in the light available for purchase.
The Astrolux S43S conforms to the popular hotrod quad recipe. The $40 price at the time of writing is competitive.
Main features:
–4x LEDs (Nichia 219C or Cree XP-G3)
-Compatible with 18650 and 18350 batteries
-Integrated USB charging (Micro-USB connector)
–1x7135+FET direct drive driver with NarsilM ramping firmware
-Electronic side switch with backlight
-Heavy copper head for effective heatsinking
-Tripod socket / skull breaker in the tail
If you’re here only for the numbers, here they are:
Note: since the light is direct driven on turbo, the output depends on the internal resistance of the battery used. Samsung 30Q was used in all of the tests. Expect at least 10% higher maximum output with a Sony VTC5A and 15% lower with an Aspire 18350.
Measured dimensions and weight
Length: 88.3/121.4 mm (18350/18650)
Head width: 30.3 mm
Handle width: 24.0 mm
Weight: 138/153 grams plus 25/47 grams for a 18350/18650 battery
Box and contents
The light comes packaged in a hard cardboard box bundled with:
Lanyard
Pocket clip
Two spare o-rings
User manual https://i.imgur.com/1ah2rXs.jpg
Physical appearance
The light is a bit front heavy with its large copper head. Even though the switch is not recessed, it doesn’t activate by accident when resting against a level surface.
Removable attack hammer.
Compared to the S41S, the S43S has a lot more copper.
There was some dirt on two emitters in the review sample, which was evident even when looking at the head. Most of the dirt came off easily enough with a cotton swab and a fingernail.
User interface
The S43S is operated via an electronic side switch. It uses Tom E’s NarsilM.
The UI is way too advanced to be described in its entirety here, but here are some major features:
-Ramping output selection, hold switch to adjust brightness
-Instant one click on/off
-Shortcuts to moon (long click from off) and max output (double click from off or on)
-Several configurable mode sets with discrete output levels
-In mode config it’s possible to advance (single click) and reverse modes (long click)
-Adjustable temperature limits or timed stepdowns
For more information check out the NarsilM reference manual, the manual for the BLF Q8 or the cheat sheet. If you ever need a manual for any of the popular UI’s, check CRX’s firmware manual thread.
The UI is intuitive even if you’re not familiar with all the aspects of NarsilM. Give the light to someone and they’ll figure it out immediately. You don’t necessarily need to delve into the configuration menu (hold switch for 8 sec) at all. Only thing I would do is to adjust the temperature limit for your particular sample, as I suspect that it doesn’t come calibrated from the factory.
Integrated charger
The 18350/18650 battery can be charged via a Micro-USB connector. Charging a 3000mAh Samsung 30Q takes about 5 hours, a 1100mAh Aspire 18350 about 2.
The charger draws 0.74A from the USB power supply at most. The slow rate is understandable, since the light can be used with lower capacity 18350s. The charger uses a less efficient linear type of circuit and throws off the extra voltage from the 5V USB line. Almost 25% of the energy is wasted, so it’s not the perfect solution for a prepper style of situation when relying on solar or power banks for power.
Charging a 3000mAh Samsung 30Q 18650
Charging a 1100mAh Aspire 18350
Size comparison
Next to other quad emitter lights. The Wuben and Acebeam use 21700 batteries.
With the 18350 battery tube, the S43S is about the size of an Emisar D4 with an 18650
Beamshot comparison
The Astrolux S43S has a little lower output than the Emisar D4, but has a clearly wider beam with a bit less throw. It is however, significantly brighter than the S42. The 21700 light Wuben TO50R has a more even and large hotspot with less wideangle spill with throw to the S43S. The Acebeam EC65 is clearly the most powerful out of the group.
Beam and tint
With regard to tint, the beam is very even. There’s some artifacts at the edges, which may be because the optic might not sit perfectly on the LEDs. This was the case with the Astrolux S42 as well. It’s not noticeable in actual use though. I haven’t seen this with lights using Carclo optics.
Some modes between the 7135 and FET get a bit greenish in tint, but low modes and turbo are very nice. Color temperature stays between 4700 and 4800K on all of the modes.
Spectral data and color rendering
For spectral information and CRI calculations I use an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer with HCFR, Babelcolor CT&A and ArgyllCMS spotread for the graphs and data. For runtime tests I use spotread with a custom script and an i1Display Pro because it doesn’t require calibration every 30 minutes like the i1Pro.
If you have an hour to spare, I recommend watching this presentation on IES TM-30-15 which also shines light into color rendering in general.
CRI data on turbo measured from the hotspot
CRI data at the top of the ramp
CRI data on 1x7135 (89 lumens)
CRI data on low (3 lumens)
Output and runtimes
The output drops very rapidly when the temperature limit is exceeded. The temperature control is fairly simple, and while there is no oscillations, the light doesn’t ramp back up after cooling down either. It feels backwards that turbo permanently steps down to a level lower than can be retained otherwise. This is usually the price to pay with hotrods, to protect the light and the user. High modes can be of course activated manually after the stepdown has occurred.
Output is not regulated above the 89 lumen 7135 level.
Comparison on ~100 lumen level, 1x7135 mode on the S54S, ROT66 and D4. Test done with just a single 18650.
Just like the preceding Astrolux S42, the total system efficacy is low at 63 lumens per watt at best. The Fireflies ROT66 with its notoriously inefficient 219B SW45k emitters and 7135 linear regulator is 25% better. Above the 7135 when the S43S starts to PWM the FET, it’s even worse. In addition the light doesn’t regulate output above the 89 lumens, but rather follows the battery voltage curve.
The 1+FET driver is tried and tested, but naturally lacks on efficiency department. On the other hand, you can’t really get a better and more efficient buck/boost drivers at this price point. With those it’s possible to double the runtime at similar output levels without sacrificing any quality in light.
Whether the problem lies in the driver or the optics, remains to be investigated.
Standby drain
There’s some parasitic drain on the batteries when the light is switched off. This is understandable due to the electronic soft switch and especially its backlight. The drain is not very high though.
Standby current: 106 µA
It would take about three years to drain a 3000 mAh battery.
Low voltage protection
Low voltage protection at 2.9 V
The S43S will drop output and blink the light as the battery voltage drops until the voltage drops below 2.9 where the light shuts off.
When the battery gets critically low, the light blinks:
Click for video: https://i.imgur.com/ZgdhLud.mp4
Flicker
There is no visible flicker, but PWM is used on modes other than 1x7135 and full FET (turbo).
I measure the flicker optically from the LED with a Thorlabs DET36A/M photodetector and an oscilloscope.
Flicker frequency: 15.6 kHz below 1x7135, 31.2 kHz above 1x7135
Snob index: 0% (not visible)
Flicker measurement on moonlight
Low (3 lumens)
Mode 3 (between 1x7135 and FET)
Turbo (full FET)
Brightness is varied using PWM on every brightness setting except for two modes where either one 7135 current regulator or the FET are fully active. The 7135 mode can only be reliably activated when using the preset modes sets. With moon activated (default), the PWM free mode is the 3rd mode with the 5th being full FET turbo.
PWM frequency is either 15.6 kHz below 1x7135 level (89 lumens) and 31.2 kHz when the FET activates above that. The 7135 is always active so on turbo the light PWMs between the FET and the 7135. Flicker is not visible to the naked eye on any mode.
Temperature
My testing was done indoors in 23°C ambient temperature.
The S43S gets very hot very fast which is expected. At the top of the ramp (1270 lumens) the light got too hot to hold from the copper part before it stepped down. You can adjust the temperature limit from the configuration mode. Default is 55°C, but as the calibration varies, this is different for every light. In reality, mine was probably higher than 55°C.
On the 1x7135 level the light will be hand holdable indefinitely. It didn’t feel very warm on the 265 lumen mode I also did a runtime test on. You don’t have to raise the output much though for it to become uncomfortable. Lot’s of energy is turned into heat.
Verdict
The Astrolux S43S isn’t an original design, at least with regards to its innards. It is based on a well known driver type and firmware and utilizes one of the most popular emitters as of now (219C, XP-G3). The massive copper head is attractive, even if the shape might divide opinions. It is also bigger and heavier than the previous S4xS series of lights, which means better heat sinking, but also more front heavyness. I wish it had some knurling on the 18650 tube, but it can take the tube+tail from the S42, which is textured and also shaves 3.5mm off the length.
The biggest letdown is the low efficiency. That is partly due to the linear+FET driver design, but something else is taking a toll on it too as it’s clearly less efficient than the competitors with similar electrical design. But for short bursts, it does put out a lot of light.
The beam has some artifacts that aren’t noticeable in actual use. The optics doesn’t sit perfectly on the LEDs, but at least it’s not crushing them. They can’t be easily changed as the S43S is not using the popular Carclo brand of optics. The tint consistent throughout the beam and neutral on most modes. It still doesn’t achieve the rosy beauty of some 219Bs, but can be altered using filters, since nothing is glued on the light.
Even if it’s nothing revolutionary, it’s a huge step up from the S42 and there’s not a lot to complain. It’s a pretty object putting out pretty light with a good user interface for a good price! If you need USB charging, it has that covered as well.
+Good tint
+NarsilM ramping firmware is easy to use
+USB charging
+Copper, yum
+Lots of light when needed
-Inefficient design
-Slippery 18650 tube
-Long and heavy for an 18650 light