Oh, ok - so the LED's are parallel. Are they on good copper (SinkPAD, Noctigon, direct path custom copper, etc.)? If so, think that's a good test config, but either way, being that the LED's are in parallel, it should be ok to test it out - voltage level is right, amps are spread out over 3 LED's, all depending on the Vf and draw.
Shipping does sound expensive in the US, so overseas, ouch, I'm thinking. I'm wondering now if these are just OEM'd AW IMR's, or something similar. I think the KK ICR's are better than AW IMR, at least in my practical testing, not measured though. And like you guys are saying, the quoted specs on internal resistance/impedance is all over the place, so I'm doubting those #'s now.
Dale - maybe you can dig a little more with this vendor to find out more about where or what these originated from?
Apparently their parent company is Powerizer and these cells are imported then wrapped and branded in California. Supposed to be about a year old chemistry formulated for high current drain and prolonged life cycle for use in electric cars and electric bikes. I did find reference in their data sheet to INR 26650 A . From their site…
“Lithium Nickel Manganese Cobalt Oxide also lithium-mananese-cobalt-oxide (LiNiMnCo, NMC, NCM), Li[NiMnCo]O2 based Cathode & Graphite based Anode, is the newest generation Li-Ion rechargeable battery for high power applications, such as EV car, E-scooter and E-bike. The NMC cells compromise between high current rate and high capacity rate. Compared with LiCoO2 series Li-Ion cell, the NMC cells provide higher energy density with lower cost, long cycle life (>1000@1.0C, IEC standrad). NMC cell has 3.6 +/- 0.5V nominal working voltage and shall be cut-off power at 4.15-4.20V per cell during charging.”
I ran a single cell into the Elektrolumens triple. The highest number I saw was 10.30A, this drawn through a 3D Mag battery tube using an 6061 1/2” aluminum shaft for extension (I’d done this previously to run this light [prior to this drop in] on a single 32650, plastic spacers fore and aft to separate the rod from the sidewalls of the tube) and another 2” rod of same for the DMM. So it’s pulling 10+A through 6” of aluminum rod. This on a well rested cell at 4.15V. (My back-up cell) Puts some pretty serious heat out the front, I might add!
Capacity test result:
o Powerizer LiNiCoMn 26650 3.6V 3600mAh cell has 3797.33mAh capacity while being
discharge @ 18A rate
o K2 LiFePO4 26650 2600mAh cell has 2227.28mAh capacity while being discharge @ 18A
rate
• Discharge Voltage test result:
o Powerizer LiNiCoMn 26650 3.6V 3600mAh cell has a significant higher discharge voltage
than LiFePO4 K2 26650 3.2V 2600mAh cell while being discharge @ 21 rate (V discharge
LiNiCoMn = 3.1~3.3V, V discharge LFP K2 = 2.5 ~2.75V)
Chart in their data sheets showing typical curves. Notice they refer here as INR
HKJ, what are the chances of your comparator being configured so you can eliminate protected/unprotected, 4.2/4.3/4.35v and different cell sizes from the comparison. or group them together for ease of search and comparison ?
I do not have any plans for changing the comparator. You can easily see if a cell is about 4.2 volt and you can also easily see the cell size in the list. Protected/unprotected is difficult to see, I have been thinking about making a list of "raw" cells (Like I have lists of different brands).
Thanks for the reply.
Even just the protected/unprotected element would be an improvement of an otherwise already great resource 
Well I got a "BS" response from FastTech support on them (or their supplier) sending the wrong batteries! Here is what they said to me:
************************ We have contacted our supplier and please kindly be known that "INR" and "ICR" are the production batch code, different production time has different batch code. "26650" is the type of this item. Your understanding will be much appreciated. ************************I'm sending them a link to Ted's Flashlight Wiki page which states the differences in chemistry between the two and proves it's not a "batch code".
Argh! In the meantime I guess I need to buy ICR's from elsewhere!
-Garry
Crap, Garry - that sucks!! FT is just getting worse and worse - I thought they would offer you a couple of bucks credit, and that's it - they were doing that to me lately. Earlier, I would get a full refund. My experiences is the support is degraded every time I have an issue.
Yeah, this isn't my first support issue with FastTech, but it is the first one that is turning into a negative experience. Seems Fancy Flashlights is the only reputable dealer I can get flat-top ICR King Kong's from. I'll give FT until next Tuesday and if they won't resolve the issue I'll order from FF.
-Garry
I would persist with Fasttech gary. You ordered a particular type of battery and supplied another. Good luck.
I’ve got a KK INR & Tmart HD2010 on the way.
Is all I need spring bypass mod in order to get 5A+?
You may possibly get near 5 amps. I have two HD2010’s and they both had the same but different drivers. It will depend on what driver you end up with and be careful of the reflector shorting out on the led. I stick a soft sticky sided plastic isolator on the reflector itself to stop this happening.
http://www.tmart.com/UItraFire-CREE-XM-LT6-8W-1300-Lumen-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Black_p135768.html
I bought that one. I also recall seeing someone say that I need to loosen the pill as well in order to get it to focus better? I’ll probably have to get some high temp resistant tape if the reflector ends up shorting the circuit.
That was probably me - takes some fiddling. Loosened it a turn or 2 and made a nice difference in lumens and throw. That's the one from TMART I did it with. Ohh - but mine was with a XM-L2 on copper with 22 gauge wires, so may make a difference.
I’m fine as long as I can get at least 4.5A+. It’s time I have a little pocket thrower.
Another question - would sanding the contacts take off the oxidation layer and consequently reduce resistance?
One way or another, but cover them, as that reflector is notorious for grounding out on the contacts. I ended up taking a much different approach with good success, but I’m using an Erik1320 driver and not direct driving off the potent 26650 cell. Cut a piece of large diameter shrink wrap tubing to fit in there, it’s nice and thin and will prevent a short.
Even go so far as to desolder the leads and reposition them as far to the outside as possible, flattening the wires with your iron as you re-solder. By pressing the wire flat into the solder joint it minimizes the height and helps avoid that short situation, but still, cover it.
I just put the Powerizer LiNiMnCo 18650 in a JayRob Stubby 1D Mag with the Elektrolumens triple XM-L2 in direct drive and it pushed the 3 emitters at 6A, with no spring bypasses or resistance mods at all. It’s a hot enough cell that I pulled it, afraid I was going to melt things in the Mag (did that last time when I first got this hockey puck from Wayne, over 9A with 3 D sized NiMH WILL melt springs in a Mag)
Is this light safe enough at 6A? That’s some 2380 emitter lumens, very neat in a stubby 1D Mag! It only runs at 3.58A with a Novea Protected 32650. Still bright and stays quite cool, might just leave that in there as I’ve got higher powered lights if that’s what’s needed.
Can the HD2010 be direct driven if the LED is neg side shorted to the body? Would it be possible to rig a “turbo switch” to make a neg lead ground for direct drive, bypassing the driver? My XM-L2 dedomed is on LOTS of copper, so it should handle direct drive from the LiNiMnCo 26650 cell. Willing to give it a try if someone can confirm a neg lead short from the led will do this.
running 4.18A, de-domed and on copper, but it can put visible light on a light colored building over 600 yds away.
Is yours XML2? What cell are you using?
I guess I might have to dedome mine too… hot plate to heat it up, and then lift with a thin blade right?
If you ever want to get even higher currents, get a Moli IMR26700. They fit the Tmart HD2010 perfectly and are capable of flowing 40 amps continuous. I don’t know a good vendor as I have pulled all mine from Milwaukee V18 packs. Here’s a US Ebay search. I imagine you can get them locally Down Under too.
EDIT: Don’t use this cell if your light has one of those direct drive drivers.