Well today I received my pair of King Kongs I ordered from FastTech based on TomE's advice, but they are the wrong ones! Argh! I ordered these ICR's (and apparently FastTech only sells ICR's) but received INR's (clearly labeled "INR26650" on the cell). This after I had to wait for them to come back in stock! Guess I'll see how they want to handle it. Perhaps I should just keep them and re-order. I'm sure I could sell them to someone here if I decided to.
-Garry
Crap!! I got KK INR's and not the same, not as good... Sorry! I use them in XML based single cell lights, but for XM-L2's, not too good. Think HKJ has test results for both, can't recall, but the ICR's are superior in lower resistance.
BatterySpace.com/AA Portable Power Corp. Tel: 510-525-2328 - Powerizer Battery Official Site These are high drain with 1500 cycle repeatability. Made for cars and scooters. I’m using them for my HD2010. 18A constant draw rate at 3000mAh capacity. $9.50 ea.
Dale - those cells look really good, actually the site is pretty good as well. Wondering if you know for sure these are lower resistance than the KK ICR 4000's, and maybe even the Samsung 18650 INR 20R's. The product page says 20 milli-ohm, and the 20R's were rated by HKJ at 0.04 ohms, which is 40 milli-ohms, here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/17136, and the KK ICR and INR are 50 mohm's and 80 mohm's rated here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/11410 and here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/11991
I just know they work really well and are instant welders if you short them in the very slightest. Don’t ask. (no harm no foul)
Wanna share cost and send a couple to HKJ for testing? I wouldn’t mind seeing them in the charts for comparison, his charts are an amazing attribute!
Damn, if this is really twice as low as a 20R, I gotta get a few of these because I think with a cell at this performance level, you may actually obtain over 5 amps on a HD2010 with a XM-L2 U2 on copper, with a UCL/p, linear driver (nanjg piggyback'ed up), you should hit 1,500 lumens, 110 kcd, or de-domed, 220-240 kcd - some crazy #'s for a relatively small light and maybe even higher #'s, fully mod'ed/tweaked of course, and maybe only for a few minutes at those #'s 
.
Hope relic can chime in, see what he thinks, or what we could do. He's maybe familiar with these or knows how to test the cells for resistance. Actually I think the better hobby chargers will give you resistance readings, but not sure, or even if so, whether it's reliable or not.
You got me all wet think'n about the possibilities .
With one as back-up. I’m considering plugging one into a 3D Mag build I have that uses 3 XM-L2 emitters direct drive, just to see what kind of amperage those 3 will pull on it. They’re using Imedion LSD NiMH cells and getting 9.4A at the moment.
Any reason you can think of that I shouldn’t try it? If it works brilliantly, I might just have to cut the 3D to a 1D! 
I'm no EE also, just know enuf to be dangerous... I dunno the voltages you got there - LED's in 3S or 3P setup? How bout those NiMH cells? I'm lithium all the way, pretty much, never touch'ed a Mag lite.
WHAT? And you call yourself an American? That might be enough to deport you to Canada!
-Garry
+1 . Funny, my first high end light was a StreamLight - does that count? But I am fond of Chrysler's (please - not Kreisler), a good Canadian-American brand...
I doubt you can compare readings published to HKJs, Internal resistance readings can be done a couple of ways and yield different results.
With my dedicated, calibrated tester I recorded 24mOhms for a KK…
Battery test results
That is correct, I even published an article about it.
What would it take to get a couple of these sent to you for testing? I’d like to know exactly what they can do.
I hadn’t seen that, great article
Goes to a rod that contacts the top of the battery. Negatives are direct grounded. There’s a pcb holding the 3 emitters, but no circuitry of any kind. There was a machine bolt making the connection but I removed that in favor of a solid copper 12 ga wire from household Romex. All springs have been bypassed or replaced. So the emitters would draw directly from the cell.
Whatdya think?
I do prefer getting directly from dealers or manufacturers. If you send some batteries to me, it has to be unused batteries, directly from a dealer.
The general problem with US is the prohibition against shipping LiIon oversea, there are a couple of batteries I would like to get from the US.
I’ll call them and see what they say about direct shipping them to you for testing. Might even catch a price break! They are based in California. Oriental guy on the voice machine when I called too early a few minutes ago.
What do you need? A pair? More than that?
WHAT? I can’t send you my year old cells to see how they fare? lol But of course, new factory direct would be obvious. If you’re going to post the results they have to be verifiable and beyond scrutiny.
With exception of primary batteries, a pair has always worked fine.
It could be fun testing some older batteries and see how they stand up to time, but I have basically been running my test stations 24/7 for 1½ year now, i.e. there is not much spare time on them.
An estimate of time used: 6 days for one battery set (18650/26650) and I have tested about 130 sets, i.e. 780 days test time (Distributed on two test stations).
The guy said shipping to Denmark would not be a problem. Don’t know what it’d cost, but it cost me $10.80 to have 2 shipped to me from California to Texas back in January. Total cost then was $29.80 for 2 cells.
The shipping is only legal if he used UPS and that is rather expensive (Not that I care if he ships legal or not).
Also note that I do not necessary start a test when I receive the batteries, I might have other ones in queue.