Runners-up:
AAA: Lumintop Ti: Why not first? No firely mode. Pro’s: beauty and quality!
AA: Manker E11: Why not first? No firefly mode. Pro’s: cheap, powerful
18650: Convoy S2+: Why not first? Too big. Could be first after modding though :). Pro’s: modding and build quality.
Now I realise that this is a personal opinion based on my own requirements. I just put them in because I’m curious about your BIC list :). With a short Why and Why not.
I have all those apart from the Manker’s ( I missed out on the deals for them) I would probably have the same list more or less only substituting the Manker U11 for my Olight S30R and maybe my Convoy S3 for your S2+. Ask me again in a month though and I would probably choose others in my collection.
I couldn’t consider the S3 for best in the AA class because it is larger than some of my 18650 lights. It’s a nice light for sure, but I don’t think it takes advantage of the smaller size of the AA to be considered the best AA form factor light in production. I love my S3, but I compare it more directly to an 18650 light with below average run-time.
I have A01 and E11
As for A01, I bought 2 pcs. One of them is perfect and the other one has sharp edge on its thread that makes it hard to twist with one hand.
> Now I realise that this is a personal opinion based on my own requirements.
good awareness
some of my preferences: High CRI, NoPWM, no LiIon
I do not like to EDC twisties that start on firefly
my best in class
AAA: Copper Lumintop Tool w Nichia
AA: Orange L11c 4 mode w Nichia (I really like the mode spacing)
regarding the A01, the latest batch seems to have a completely different led and driver. Much cooler color, and a weird form of memory. It starts on the next level up from the last mode used
I can confirm the information in that cpf thread. Instead of resetting back to moon mode after x seconds, it always goes to the next mode, like an SK68, including strobe. I tried leaving the light off for as long as 2 minutes, and the driver still switched to the next mode.
The driver in the head no longer says Manker.
And by my eyeball visual estimates, the color temperature is cooler/bluer than my Convoy 4300-4500K XM-L2, I’m guessing 5000K compared to my BLF-348.
I don’t think these are actually best in class, but these are what I’d choose if I was running out the door, not sure what to expect. I really enjoy the versatility that right angle designs afford me. I have no problem using a right angled flashlight as a regular flashlight, although they do present minor challenges when using them in conjunction with a firearm.
AAA/10440 - Tank007 E09 - 3 modes, IPX-8, AAA and 10440 capable, durable construction, inexpensive. I added a pocket clip so that I can clip it to the front of my ball cap for impromptu handfree operation. I have yet to find an effective right angled AAA/10440 light.
AA/14500 - I’m liking my Skilhunt H15. Right Angled, useful modes, AA/14500 compatible, magnetic tail cap. I like that I can use AA’s in here in a pinch and get extra punch with a 14500. That weighs in very heavily into my choice. Downsides, it’s nearly as big as my Nitecore HC30 and doesn’t throw as far.
18650 - Nitecore HC30 - Like the H15, Right Angled head. Decent throw, good modes and compact size. Magnetic tail would be nice. Clip interferes with headlamp holder.
Honorable mention: AAA - Trusty Inova Xs and BLF 348. AA/14500 - Jetbeam JET-I MK, Nitecore MT10a. 18650 - Klarus AR10/Thrunite TN20 Adjustable head (rt angle for headlamp, adjustable for hands free), magnetic base. AR10 includes USB charging and electronic lockout.
My only AAA: Atom AO titanium Nichia 219B. It is a mule with a low of .03 and a high of 30. Great for reading and has a magnet on the tail cap. The high really limits it and I never carry it exclusively.
18650: My newest purchase which is a Manker E14. It comes standard to fit a 18350. However, I have the longer tube to use 18650’s. It is the quad Nichia 5000k version with a TIR optic that gives a fantastic flood. I EDC it as a 18350 light but the few times I wanted longer runtimes I converted it up.
If I add a CR123A category: I love my brass Mini-ML-X from Foursevens. Very handy when on a neck lanyard.
Where did you buy yours from, EyeballFryer ?
I got mine from BG and no complaints… everything checks out. I just love the ultra-low level on mine (I bought 3).
It would be a real pity if they changed the driver and tint
(btw… I really dislike that ‘next-mode-memory’ thing…)
The Manker U11 really is a great light, it has only one major flaw: besides the great moonlight mode the next low mode is much too bright, there is no real low mode. Even in pro mode you can’t correct that.
K.
I ordered my 2 A01s from banggood.com, from the China warehouse. I placed my order on Sept 28, received it in my mailbox yesterday (Saturday, Oct 08).
Something that I JUST discovered while answering your question: the middle mode, which is the “low” mode, has PWM. I can tell both by shining it at a fan, and by waving it back and forth. It’s not as high frequency as Convoy’s PWM, but not as low frequency as on my SK68 clones.
Strangely, the first mode - moonlight - does NOT have PWM.
I’m certain my two latest A01s have the unlabeled drivers with the green ring (PCB?) showing, and they’re the ones showing the PWM. I’m certain my previous A01s have the Manker label on it.
I don’t mind that you add the discovery to the other thread.
The Astrolux I mean is actually the BLF copper version. The aluminum ones are still very good (even with the new strange driver). I’ll give some purple ones away to my class of students. I like the really low mode.
I like the Ti Lumintop because it’s just plain beautiful. I know high mode is not top-notch but this kind of light is for in-home use where I don’t need max lumens.
I understand criticism on the S3 for it’s size. But please refer to a better (more lumens) and smaller 18400. Interested. CR123 favorite is the Olight S1 batton upto now. But I’m phasing out CR123.
Manker E14 is a nice gadget but came with 2 CREE’s and 2 Nichia’s. Get’s too hot. Hate the thing. And GB for that matter.
the Olight RC05 with 300 lumens seems brighter than the Manker E11 and equal to the Klarus Mi7 in a video on Youtube , more expensive but a magnetic charger and a good 14500 battery come with it , so Manker and Klarus dont tell the real lumens or Olight made an error with 300 lumens. Fenix RC05 Flashlight Review - YouTube
The Astrolux A01 is not as nice as an Olight i3s though (i.m.h.o.)
A01 starts at a near invisible firefly mode, which is useless most of the time.
It should start at low (normal) mode, like the i3s. Also the i3s moon mode is more useful than the A01 firefly mode.
My A01 does have that nice warm white Nichia though (and no visible PWM), whereas the i3s has a ugly greenish XP-G2.
I think in real life i would even prefer a 348 over the A01, because of that firefly 1st mode, although a 348 is quite tall and heavy at 23.2 grams.
(i3s is 12.3 grams, A01 is 16.6 grams)
Compared to the i3s the A01 is a little bulky.
The A01 head is big enough to fit a slim AA body.
it can not tail stand and has no clip.
I’m waiting for solder paste, i will replace that XP-G2 and have the best looking and working AAA EDC i can imagine.
Unfortunately i missed the Gearbest deal couple of weeks ago, i want to buy another i3s.
Because the down side of the i3s is the anodization, which wears off, but i love it in spotless purple, but only still available for 19.95 bucks at BG now…
