This?
slmjim
Those look to be a lower power 3w version, I think it is these ones the other guys are talking about 5W LG UV but i cant find them as bare emitters anywhere (i think its the same emitter used on the Convoy S2)
They also have all diameters of ZWB2 filter on Kadomain
Very late reply to this, but if you’re after curing glue and paint, it’s better to get a 380 - 395nm UV LED.
They are more efficient (more UV output per Watt), cheaper and have a lower Vf, and you can use PMMA / acrylic optics, like for a triple setup.
I’m a bit confused right now…
I thought that 3 Watt version was of the previous generation, whereas the 5 Watt version is the latest generation with the relatively low Vf.
Djozz knows this for certain, of course.
Thanks for the reply.
I measure the mcpcb in the Tool AA2.0 HM kit at 12mm. Also, they aren't secured by screws; there are two tabs on the mcpcb that locate into slots at the edges of the pill to prevent the mcpcb from rotating, but that's it. I suspect they're being secured by thermal glue. Perhaps they're proprietary specifically to the kit? I doubt there's enough room on the LG DTP plate you linked to at the Convoy store to reduce the diameter by sanding it without seriously encroaching on the solder pads the pill's leads attach to.
I ordered one of the linked LG UV DTP plates anyway, and we'll see what happens. If necessary, I'll embark on my first attempt at reflowing. Or, find a suitable host & driver to create a AA UV light from scratch.
slmjim
12 mm mcpcb with a xp-g2, just needs the LG reflowed on the board.
https://ogazent.com/store/leds/xp-g2-led-on-12mm-copper-star/
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How to reflow with no special tools.
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EDIT: I just noticed that the KD link The_Fat_Controller gave has a copper 10mm board as a option.
Using this one it should drop right in. Usually the reflector being tighten down by the bezel is what puts pressure on a led protector (sometimes called a insulation gasket or centering ring) holding the mcpcb down to the pill firmly and keeps it centered in the reflector.
10 mm copper mcpcb with LG UV.
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Djozz test with UV leds.
I have one on the way from Banggood (bought for $US21) and look forward to testing it when it eventually arrives.
There is a YouTube video comparing the two LEDs. I assumed that the wavelengths produced is similar to the Nichia but that the camera had a hard time dealing with the extra brightness of the LG. And the extra brightness might be handy for discovering fluorescent objects outdoors.
I picked up one of the Convoy 1.5A buck drivers (I believe this is the one used in the new C8 UV) and installed it in an S2+ host with a 365nm 5W LG UV LED. This driver eliminates the issue of the supplied voltage dropping below the LED’s forward voltage as the cell drains.
It works great with two protected 16340 cells but it can also be used with two CR123a primaries or, in a pinch, an 18650 cell can still be used. Unfortunately, two protected 18350 cells are too long for the S2+ host.
I also have the S2 UV with the 5x7135 driver (which is where I harvested the LED). It seems to run a little bit cooler than the 5x7135 driver, particularly when the cell is fully charged.
As an added bonus, the GITD gasket looks pretty cool when used with a UV emitter.
An option is to use a S2 pill in the S2+. It probably makes 2x18350 possible.
I may give it a try, though I’m not sure it would fit in the S2 pill. The new buck driver is quite a bit thicker with its big inductor sticking out.
Hmm, you are right, it looks like this one will not fit in there.
I’m sure it looks cool, but this is actually a rather silly thing to do.
You have a 365nm LED with a ZWB2 filter to eliminate the visible light, and then you add a GITD O-ring, which adds a considerable amount of visible light…
It isn’t really a considerable amount and it doesn’t affect the ability to perceive fluorescence. I can see the light cast from the o-ring if I hold the head 2-3 inches away from an object.
It depends on the object.
If it’s shiny like glazed ceramics (tiles, sink) it will reflect the GTID ring.
If it’s white you’ll notice it too, and maybe mistake it for fluorescing due to the UV light.
If you want to look at the glowing ring directly, you also get UV in your eyes.
But hey, we can all do what pleases us, of course. 
I believe the o-ring makes much less light than you think it does; it is less intense than the photo would lead you to believe.
I always wear ANSI Z87.1 safety glasses when using UV lights.
My primary use for this light is for curing UV epoxy so it doesn’t matter much anyways.
Just a quick safety question. I’m planning on using a UV torch (I have a Fittorch MR35, but might get a Convoy S2+ LG UV) for a UV body paint/wax photoshoot. How long is it “safe” to have the UV light on before it can be deemed dangerous?
For that, you probably wouldn’t need full UV, certainly not 365nm. 395nm might be fine, or 405nm violet even.
Recieved my UV Convoy S2 but didn’t consider that it would be single mode.
Having modes would be nice and there is a UV version of the Astrolux A6 being released.
I just picked up the C8 UV and took a quick comparison shot with the S2+ UV I assembled. Both lights are using the same 5W LG 365nm emitter and 1.5A buck driver.
The S2+ is well suited for close-up use and has a wide spill that makes everything nearby fluoresce. It also works great for curing UV epoxies. The C8, as expected, has a much more concentrated beam which works great for spotting fluorescent objects outdoors from a distance. However, the spill isn’t intense enough to create any usable fluorescence making it unsuitable for close-up work.
Is there a consensus on these lights on amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P1RR9KM/
Many white labels of the same design, 68, 100, and 128 LED versions, 6 AA batteries, 395nm…
I am using it for some ceramic spray for my car, which has UV tracers to ensure an even application. A very cool application if you ask me. See video, starting at around 1:10 The Most Durable Protection for Your Car | Adam's Graphene Ceramic Coating™ - YouTube
Anyway, it looks like this same white label product is what Adam’s Polishes uses for the UV light they sell for $15 (Adam's UV Flashlight - Adam's Polishes), which is ironically well-priced considering some of their other items are way overpriced. Cheaper that the other identical white-labeled products on amazon.
Does anyone have info on who makes it? What LEDs? Is it a good buy at $12 (20% coupon for Adam’s).