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EDIT: I just noticed that the KD link The_Fat_Controller gave has a copper 10mm board as a option.
Using this one it should drop right in. Usually the reflector being tighten down by the bezel is what puts pressure on a led protector (sometimes called a insulation gasket or centering ring) holding the mcpcb down to the pill firmly and keeps it centered in the reflector. 10 mm copper mcpcb with LG UV.
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Djozz test with UV leds.
I have one on the way from Banggood (bought for $US21) and look forward to testing it when it eventually arrives.
There is a YouTube video comparing the two LEDs. I assumed that the wavelengths produced is similar to the Nichia but that the camera had a hard time dealing with the extra brightness of the LG. And the extra brightness might be handy for discovering fluorescent objects outdoors.
I picked up one of the Convoy 1.5A buck drivers (I believe this is the one used in the new C8 UV) and installed it in an S2+ host with a 365nm 5W LG UV LED. This driver eliminates the issue of the supplied voltage dropping below the LED’s forward voltage as the cell drains.
It works great with two protected 16340 cells but it can also be used with two CR123a primaries or, in a pinch, an 18650 cell can still be used. Unfortunately, two protected 18350 cells are too long for the S2+ host.
I also have the S2 UV with the 5x7135 driver (which is where I harvested the LED). It seems to run a little bit cooler than the 5x7135 driver, particularly when the cell is fully charged.
As an added bonus, the GITD gasket looks pretty cool when used with a UV emitter.
I’m sure it looks cool, but this is actually a rather silly thing to do.
You have a 365nm LED with a ZWB2 filter to eliminate the visible light, and then you add a GITD O-ring, which adds a considerable amount of visible light…
It isn’t really a considerable amount and it doesn’t affect the ability to perceive fluorescence. I can see the light cast from the o-ring if I hold the head 2-3 inches away from an object.
It depends on the object.
If it’s shiny like glazed ceramics (tiles, sink) it will reflect the GTID ring.
If it’s white you’ll notice it too, and maybe mistake it for fluorescing due to the UV light.
If you want to look at the glowing ring directly, you also get UV in your eyes.
But hey, we can all do what pleases us, of course.
Just a quick safety question. I’m planning on using a UV torch (I have a Fittorch MR35, but might get a Convoy S2+ LG UV) for a UV body paint/wax photoshoot. How long is it “safe” to have the UV light on before it can be deemed dangerous?
I just picked up the C8 UV and took a quick comparison shot with the S2+ UV I assembled. Both lights are using the same 5W LG 365nm emitter and 1.5A buck driver.
The S2+ is well suited for close-up use and has a wide spill that makes everything nearby fluoresce. It also works great for curing UV epoxies. The C8, as expected, has a much more concentrated beam which works great for spotting fluorescent objects outdoors from a distance. However, the spill isn’t intense enough to create any usable fluorescence making it unsuitable for close-up work.
Anyway, it looks like this same white label product is what Adam’s Polishes uses for the UV light they sell for $15 (Adam's UV Flashlight - Adam's Polishes), which is ironically well-priced considering some of their other items are way overpriced. Cheaper that the other identical white-labeled products on amazon.
Does anyone have info on who makes it? What LEDs? Is it a good buy at $12 (20% coupon for Adam’s).
They tend to be just plain violet LEDs, like you can get in purple LED Christmas lights in about a week or two.
Depends on the dye, though. Some will fluoresce even with blue light (~470nm), others with violet (~405nm), while some others need near-UV (~395nm), while rare puppies need actual deeper UV (~365nm).
In the visible range, though, even though the dye will fluoresce green or orange or whatever, it’ll be fighting against reflected purple light (like looking at a lit LED in bright sunlight).
So… it’ll work, and you may see enough fluorescence in dim light, but you’ll have to see it to see if it’s usable.
Spring for a 365nm UV light with ZWB2 filter, and you’ll be happy as a pig in $#|+ for sure.
Awesome info. Thank you. One reason I am ok going with it is that the company themselves recommends 395nm, probably due to inexpensive UV flashlight availability for a low cost. I wonder if it will glow even more with 365nm… Not sure what chemical tracer they are using.
Any good candidates for very close work, ultra wide beam, ZWB2, 365nm, 18650, and close to $15?
