That’s a nice one, but twice the cost of the DX one. It would fit right in though…. choices, choices.
Thanks for the link Gords!
>>>>My STL-V6s measure 1.40 and 1.38.
Well that explains why mine is so lackluster at .76, unless it’s some weird driver. It wants to throw and does throw, and the spot goes a long way. It’s just not especially bright. Anyone recommend a 2-18650 driver for the V6? Don’t have it with me, so I can’t measure the size. I assume 20mm, but I could be wrong.
http://www.lck-led.com/constant-current-driver-board-modes-p-501.html?cPath=37_135
I’m using one of these in a light at the moment and its real nice to be honest, not pushing too hard, but a nice board none the less.
>>>>>>I’m using one of these in a light at the moment and its real nice to be honest, not pushing too hard, but a nice board none the less.
Thanks Gords. I will get one of those … Well, I will first pull the pill and see what I have for clearance, but as I remember, the pill is mammoth.
Glad the driver has the wires attached. I solder all day long doing audio cables, but some of those driver soldering points are just too small for me to do reliably. I ruin maybe 50% of the drivers trying to get the wires soldered on. The pads are so gosh-darn tiny. Even with a teensy teensy pointy soldering tip. Emitter stars = walk in the park. Drivers = different story. Those drivers where the wire goes on one leg of a microscopic chip contact? Can’t do it.
Don’t forget to register, I think you get store credit redeemable against your order and there’s a coupon code 15OFFMARCH2013, check my post on this to be sure though.
Hey Ubehebe, I used this driver...
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1143100
...in my UniqueFire V2 clone with good results; it drives the LED at the proper level. It wasn't a perfect fit as it was a bit smaller diameter but I was able to use desoldering braid to fill the gap. Alternatively, since it's a two-part driver with the driver on one board, and the second just being a battery contact plate, you could strip the existing driver board and use it to attach the new board...
I do like those ld series drivers, the one I linked has no strobe though, at all, ever. 8)
Hey Ubehebe, I used this driver…
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1143100
…in my UniqueFire V2 clone with good results; it drives the LED at the proper level. It wasn’t a perfect fit as it was a bit smaller diameter but I was able to use desoldering braid to fill the gap. Alternatively, since it’s a two-part driver with the driver on one board, and the second just being a battery contact plate, you could strip the existing driver board and use it to attach the new board…
Oooo that one looks nice too. Any noticeable PWM on the med and low modes?
keltex78:Hey Ubehebe, I used this driver...
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1143100
...in my UniqueFire V2 clone with good results; it drives the LED at the proper level. It wasn't a perfect fit as it was a bit smaller diameter but I was able to use desoldering braid to fill the gap. Alternatively, since it's a two-part driver with the driver on one board, and the second just being a battery contact plate, you could strip the existing driver board and use it to attach the new board...
Oooo that one looks nice too. Any noticeable PWM on the med and low modes?
I haven't noticed since I only use this light on high anyway... I would prefer a single-mode driver. I'll check when I get a chance to see how bad the PWM is...
keltex78:
Hey Ubehebe, I used this driver…
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1143100
…in my UniqueFire V2 clone with good results; it drives the LED at the proper level. It wasn’t a perfect fit as it was a bit smaller diameter but I was able to use desoldering braid to fill the gap. Alternatively, since it’s a two-part driver with the driver on one board, and the second just being a battery contact plate, you could strip the existing driver board and use it to attach the new board…
Oooo that one looks nice too. Any noticeable PWM on the med and low modes?
It’s supposedly the same as the ld25, no pwm at all. The one I linked is the same. I’ve not been able to detect any pwm. 8)
Awesome, I am not bothered by PWM, but I would rather go without it. Mostly used on high anyway.
It looks like a good fit for the Defiant 3C thrower. Yet another Fasttech order I guess.
keltex78:Hey Ubehebe, I used this driver...
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1143100
...in my UniqueFire V2 clone with good results; it drives the LED at the proper level. It wasn't a perfect fit as it was a bit smaller diameter but I was able to use desoldering braid to fill the gap. Alternatively, since it's a two-part driver with the driver on one board, and the second just being a battery contact plate, you could strip the existing driver board and use it to attach the new board...
Oooo that one looks nice too. Any noticeable PWM on the med and low modes?
...and just to confirm, I tested the FastTech driver the other evening and it definitely did not have visible PWM... 8)
ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS:Here’s what I would buy.
Yeah that’s what I bought for it, but they barely fit, super tight, actually denting the protection circuit neg terminal. My AW’s are shorter and I am running them in the STL-V6 now, and the Panasonics you recommended have been re-assigned to my L2P’s.
I would look for 18650’s that are a little shorter, IMHO.
That won’t hurt a thing. All my Panasonic batteries do that. Even the green ones.
My Fandy fire v2 takes keeppower 3400mah cells no worries, don’t see how their shorter than the 3100mah Panasonics.
They are shorter.
…and just to confirm, I tested the FastTech driver the other evening and it definitely did not have visible PWM… 8)
Awesome! I’ll go with that one I think. That driver, 2x18650/3xC, the Leica lenses, and my HD 3C is good to go.
Here is a link from another post where hopefully they have a Jacob A60 in stock if you want one.
Thanks apt323