Just received the Convoy S2+. When trying to follow the mode changing and memory on/off flow chart in order to make some changes then the light got stuck at the lowest setting. Now it only goes on/off in the lowest setting. That behavior is not one of the listed modes and I can’t find a way to reset the firmware. So is there a way to return it to the factory default setting?
Thx and regards,
The battery is full? If yes, you need to disassemble the light, take out the driver, use an AVR ISP programmer and reflash the firmware. It’s a known bug in early versions that are still sold sadly.
You’re kidding! No? Then I’ve bought what has just become a cylindrical paperweight. This is only my 2nd flashlight after buying and happily living with the little Manker E02II. In other words, I’m completely new in the more sophisticated flashlight world and have no idea how to follow your helpful instructions.
Any flashlight noob can answer his first question though. What kind of battery do you have in it, and is it charged?
Yes, the battery is 18650. I charged it a couple days ago. I just tested it at 4.15v on a inexpensive multimeter. 3.7v is written on the side of the battery so the 4.15 number could be meaningless. But the light seemed to operate fine before I tried to adjust the mode setting and the memory setting.
I would contact Simon from Convoy. He is semi-active on this forum but also have a storefront on AE and typical replies to messages within 1-2 days.
But was it bought from Simon’s AE shop or from somewhere else?
What brand battery is it? What charger do you have? Post a picture of the battery. Just trying to rule out the simple things first. If it’s a super cheap battery, it could show 4.15 on the meter, but when you try and draw power from it, it dies, or falls below the minimum voltage the flashlight requires to operate. The common quality cells people use around here are, Samsung, Sony, LG, Panasonic/Sanyo, and a few others. And you have to be careful purchasing from stores in China, since there are a lot of counterfeits. If purchasing from a Chinese seller, it’s best to ask here if they are a legit company.
Lithium ion batteries (like the 18650) should be charged to no more than 4.2v, and not discharged below 2.5v. 3.6v is the nominal or neutral resting voltage.
1. Purchased on Aliexpress from Convoy Flashlight Store. I left a msg there and someone responded requesting a video of the situation and suggested it could be a problem with the driver. I sent a video of the light going on/off.
2. Battery is from Illumn, 18650 Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh High Discharge BUTTON Top.
3. Charger was Olight USB.
I just joined the BLF forum today. Appreciate all the replies and info!
The S2+ is also my first flashlight from the BLF world, and I also have had bad luck with the Biscotti 12-mode (6x7135) in two lights. My first one, that I received towards the end of December worked as it should for two weeks. Then it started doing random things with button pushes, even after resetting it to the mode that I want (#2). Then it completely died, didn’t turn on at all.
It was within the return period, so Mohrlumens was nice enough to provide a replacement from his recently received shipment. I got it a few days ago, and immediately noticed that it’s impossible to avoid going into the configuration mode. It will get to the one-blink-buzz, two-blink-buzz at random times with nowhere near 10 clicks in a row… for example, sometimes third click after turn on when I’m trying to get to the the brightest of five brightnesses in #2. That means that I need to wait for the buzzes to end, turn it off, and then try again.
For a $15 purchase, I’m not going to bother Mohrlumens again, since it’s kind of still usable. Can anyone recommend a (cheap) driver to replace the Biscotti one? I just need something simple, 4 or 5 brightnesses starting from low. I don’t have access to my soldering iron for a few months (away from home) so it will be a longer term fix eventually, but the rest of the light is too nice to bin. The programmer looks like it would cost more than the light itself…
Interesting. I have two biscotti lights (S2+ SST-20 and C8+ XPL HI) that have functioned flawlessly for a couple of years. They are generally known as reliable, solid budget lights that few have issues with. Of course, there will always be a few, though. I wonder if you have a loose switch retainer ring and/or loose driver retainer ring. I could see those causing weird issues due to intermittent contact.
Also, I don’t remember maybe you already tried this. Make sure all of your contacts are clean. That includes head to body and body to tail. Then when reassemblying make sure the head is reasonably snug.
Is there a recommendation for an equal or better light that is more reliable than Convoy S2+ Nicha?
That’s what I thought after lurking here for many months. But I’m zero for two. After the first one failed, I found some threads here that talk about biscotti problems/bugs/failures, but I was hopeful that the replacement would be good. I just checked the retaining rings, and they are tight. Everything is clean. It’s brand new, like I said, but I just checked everything carefully again to be sure.
Documenting the bug: Turning it back on again now (in mode#2 that goes from 0.1, 1, 10, 35, 100), I got 0.1, then seemingly 0.1% with the first half click instead of 1. Turned it off. Turned it back on and it goes 0.1, blink-buzz, blink-blink buzz, 0.1. Turned off, and then it finally goes 0.1, 1, 10, 35, 100.
Perfect. If it is this store on Ali, then that is Simon Mao you’re talking to. He’s very well respected here, and Illumn is well trusted too. Excellent battery, but no need for a button top with the S2+.
The button on button tops are supposed to be spot welded to a flat top, sometimes they are not welded on correctly or come loose, which could cause resistance problems. After the button is welded on the flat top, a gasket is applied, and the battery is shrink-wrapped again with a clear wrapper. Manufacturers such as Panasonic/Sanyo do not produce button tops, only flat tops. Buttons and protection circuits are installed by 3rd party sellers. You can test yours by seeing if the button spins (or loose) on the top. If it is, you can carefully cut the clear plastic wrapper off, and remove the button, but don’t cut off the red wrapper. This is a Samsung 30q with a clear wrapper on it. The side of the can is negative, and the center of the top is positive. The white gasket is there to keep from shorting the two.
In general, whenever a light goes mental, I’ll try a factory-reset (easiest) and the unscrewing/reseating/rescrewing the driver.
Fixes most problems.
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but no need for a button top with the S2+.
The button on button tops are supposed to be spot welded to a flat top, sometimes they are not welded on correctly or come loose, which could cause resistance problems. After the button is welded on the flat top, a gasket is applied, and the battery is shrink-wrapped again with a clear wrapper. Manufacturers such as Panasonic/Sanyo do not produce button tops, only flat tops. Buttons and protection circuits are installed by 3rd party sellers. You can test yours by seeing if the button spins (or loose) on the top. If it is, you can carefully cut the clear plastic wrapper off, and remove the button, but don’t cut off the red wrapper. This is a Samsung 30q with a clear wrapper on it. The side of the can is negative, and the center of the top is positive. The white gasket is there to keep from shorting the two.
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The button top was recommended based on protection. Isn’t it supposed to prevent overcharging/fire/explosion? For me, that seems a good trade off vs chance of resistance problems. No?
Is there a factory reset option for the Convoy S2+ ? Would love to try it.
Unno, all my S2+es are oldies.
Whatever UI is on there, there’s probably a reset. I’ll defer to someone who has one to chime in.
Oh, I almost never use protected cells anymore. Not worth the ag.
Agreed. Assuming a quality charger and a quality light with LVP there is simply no need (unless running multiple cells, I suppose). One less thing to go wrong.