This isn’t my project but let me break this down a bit…
Folks do that all the time. That’s not unusual.
Again, nothing unusual about this. All they have to do is find a reliable manufacturer to work with.
Sure, why not? Its not a new idea. I don’t think anybody is expecting it to run for hours on turbo, at least I haven’t seen that requirement listed.
Again, all you gotta do is build it good and build it small.
There are really only two requirements that could derail this project and I haven’t seen either of them reported in an improbable fashion — runtimes on turbo or price. This light can have amazing runtimes on low or medium, but turbo will probably be a short-lived affair. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that. Also, for this one to be done right price could be an issue. And by issue I mean it won’t be cheap. Can I just go against the grain here and say I hope it isn’t, because I think this forum gets itself into a lot of trouble by wishing big but pricing small. Of course we all want a lot for just a little money, but I personally would rather pay a bit more for better quality. But then we’ve gotta find that manufacturer who can give us that quality.
Good luck to the organizers here. I hope you guys are on to something great.
I don’t know, I feel like we get with the right manufacturer who is willing to work with us and it could happen. Might be a bit pricey, yes, but as Texas Shooter has said, good equipment is worth it. The size and one piece body/head should be the only things we will likely have to compromise on.
@texas shooter, it looks like we are thinking of 2 different builds entirely… Yes, a small head triple is going to get very hot and I am afraid that any reasonable design is going to do that. The triple will also not be great for throw or battery life. I look to the 26650 size tube light to have a long battery run, good single emitter brightness with a turbo that kicks tail at say 5-5.5 amps at the tailcap. These have become the maglight replacement for me, not an SRK replacement. I will continue to follow this thread, but would maybe have a hard time buying a tiny head triple battery eater at this point.
@mattlward I understand where you are coming from but why not just use a lower mode on this light? I’m not trying to get smart and am honestly just trying to help get as many people interested as possible but just because it has a 8 amp turbo doesn’t mean you have to use it. As far as size goes I think we are looking at 35-40mm head diameter which isn’t too small I didn’t think. Is it going to have 20k or 30k candela? Probably not. 10k to 14k? I would say so and in a light this size being designed for the purpose it is, I think those are reasonable numbers. I myself would be happiest with about 5k candela as I prefer flood over throw in my edc lights but that is the advantage to having interchangeable optics.
@emarkd Thanks for the support. I agree with you on the turbo runtime and the price. I know for myself, and it seems Texas Shooter as well, that high of a turbo is just for short bursts when signalling, checking out that bump in the night, etc. It isn’t there to be used a scene light for long periods of time so we should be good. I also completely agree about the price. I have seen 40 dollar limits set and expect to get the same features of a 100 dollar light only to get the features and quality of a 30 dollar light. I’m perfectly ok with spending more on a good light as I’m no longer looking to buy lights just to being buying them. I have specific roles I am looking to fill and this light is one of them. I am looking for a 400 yard thrower (either the new Maxtoch 2X or a custom built L2) a good all around larger light which can handle the heat 3k+ lumens (looking to be the L6), and then a small pocket/belt light that is dead nuts reliable with plenty of output but also has lower modes for runtime and a simple to use UI, this light feels that role.
IF you had a USA based company that would work with you…without the China drama… without the China delays & un-announced changes to the end product, a USA company that you could contact by phone, by e-mail…. that speaks Texan…(that’s almost English)….that has an interest in your satisfaction, that will honor a warranty, that will keep you updated of progress…. are you interested?
As a USA based company, IF you are looking at a light as I hear about here for somewhere around $100 I would consider building this light if you will have me.
This is what I would do if the interest is there.
1. Work with the group to develop the light around a set of internal parts suitable to perform as decided…output, modes & etc.
2. Design and submit to the group drawings showing the light as it will be made.
3. Produce a prototype
4. Produce the lights as per this criteria and MATCHING the prototype.
5. Honor a warranty on the light as written.
However…. What I will NOT do:
I refuse to put you through the Bull Hockey (I told you I speak Texan) that I have read about on other builds. I will not show you one thing and deliver something different that blows up, won’t work, burns your fingers, or just plain makes you want to quit the hobby. Sorry, but I don’t want to!
If we can agree on this, then consider my hat tossed into the ring. Many Thanks. TL.
Depending on final specs, as always, but I would happily pay $100 for a US-made BLF light with awesome style, function and quality. So if you’re starting an official interest list, put me on it!
TexasLumens, thanks for the offer. I’ll post tonight a “Dream spec list”. A few things before I have to run. The body and head are going to be two separate pieces, never thought of it as one. Long, thick, deep threads from head to body should bleed out the heat well enough. Thermal or timed protection, probably thermal. Had a hot rod get bumped on in my duty bag, melted some nylon, not pretty. Fins probably shallow and well below the bezel. Don’t need it banned as a weapon from the market I’m aiming at. The 8 amp turbo should not be much of an issue, 200-250g of thick mass for quick heat distribution. Your hand should be nearly as warm as the head. Should have a good run time on turbo before thermal protection to sets in once again due to mass. TIR lens. Lots of quality slightly over sized O-rings.
Again at the Driver, I’m not qualified here at all.
And a Thanks to every one helping out. I believe that one of the selling points here is 3000 lumen turbo. While every other light this size is still 800-1200. The other selling point is its mass and toughness. When some one holds it the thought should be “That’s a light”.
So if the head is made to fit a triple optic, either the Ledil CUTE-3 or a Khatod, to be determined, then the body can be fitted to the head. Why don’t we use copper for a finned head, put a bezel on it, screw in a tube? Excellent heat sinking, essentially 3 body parts (the tail switch can be inset into the tube, held in with a retaining ring) Then it’s simple, strong, reliable, and heat sinked for max run times on Turbo.
The Bistro ATTiny25 driver is thermally regulated but can be problematic. I’d build A6 drivers for it, and I’ll offer to build the drivers myself. Or we can get drivers from Richard done on his plug and play machine for factory like precision.
I have no input to offer on the driver and would be happy with either of those two choices. Personally I prefer the programmability of Bistro over the original A6 driver, plus that option adds thermal protection, but I do see where Dale is coming from - the Tiny13 definitely seems to be more stable. I’ll let smarter folks than me hash that out.
When it comes to optics I hope we can choose something quite throwy. I’m not looking for a laser, but I don’t want another flood monster either.
I’m in for a USA made light. I like the copper idea for the head and then just aluminum for the body and tail cap. Fins don’t have to be exaggerated but enough to add surface area. I would really like to see a GITD material under the optics, interchangeable optics, stainless bezel, square or trapezoid threads, and plenty of texture on the body. I would like to see the tail cap have dual lanyard slots and be able to tailstand.
