Oh ok. I understand
Thanks to each of you for the comments. If we do this we will make every effort to make this the best light you own. We look forward to hearing more and getting the specs nailed down.
Many Thanks. TL
Oh I love that last sentence. That is our goal for every light we produce. I look forward to the specs. … Many Thanks. Back to the shop now. TL.
And on top of that, shipping costs from the US to the rest of the world are significantly more than Chinese shipping. Could be a significant hurdle for some members here.
Was not aware of that, I have never priced international shipping to or from the US except one time and it was 2 bucks lol.
Minimum is around $25 now, can go sky high from there in a big hurry.
Try to send something out of the US via DHL Express and you’ll spend a Benji in the blink of an eye. Serious. $100 shipping.
Interested…
$41.12 to send D.O.A. Acebeam K70 back to HKEquipment in H.K.
So is this shipping issue going to knock a lot of people out or are there enough in the US to support it?
DB Customs I like Copper but I believe that will mar too easily and detract from the total strength. In any other light I’d be all over the idea, this one I want built for strength aimed at First Responders. However a copper pill threaded into the host socket holding the MCPCB might be an idea. I’m not knowledgeable enough to know if it’s a heat transfer bottle neck at the MCPCB/host aluminum shelf that needs better management. A copper pill would add to the heat absorption mass right at the LED’s and add to the contact/transfer surface area of the host.
Cree just updated their LED tool so I got the specs straight from their charts Cree also list an XP-G3 S6 as the top option, it’s a new LED hopefully it’ll climb bins as the others did. 8 amp quad XP-G3 S6 runs 25.1 watts, on a triple XP-L V6 it runs 26.78 watts. Total output is within 2 lumens.
I’m under the impression that a small die XP-G in a TIR quad has the same throw as a larger die XP-L in a TIR triple given the total optic has the same outer diameter. I also believe that a 4 post TIR quad is stronger than a three post TIR triple. I also believe that the best throwing TIR throws like an OP reflector, not the best. Now if these three sentences are dubious, wrong or just crazy please point it out. They are just notions in my head without any real research or experience. I also don’t know if I can find quads in 34-35mm’s.
Specs as the light stands.
1.) Size I’m looking at 140-150mm length, 45mm head, 35mm body tube and tail switch. 200g-250g weight.
2.) I like the mix of output and CRI at about 5500-5700K range. However this is a preliminary and options happen.
3.) For the diver, no idea this is where experts help out.
4.) Looking at 34-35mm optics and there are options already produced so that’s a go.
5.) GITD in the head and maybe the tail switch. Nice to see where your light is in the dark. I will forgo the glowing tail switch boot if it’s any loss of water proofing or durability.
6.) Quad XP-G3 S6 at 2 amps do 863 lumens each, with only a VF of 3.14v. Triple XP-L V6 HD at 2.67 amps do 1150 lumens each, with a VF of 3.4v. So 3000 probably. Sub lumen moon not sure but would be a nice target for moon mode. I could live with 1 lumen moon mode. It’s up to the driver.
7.) Dual switches were from real world experience. When I grab a light out of a holster side switches are hard to find. Tail switches are easy to find and the grip is proper if you need to strike or punch. I want the side switch to do only mode change. Like a TV remote, you have an on/off button and a volume button and they are exclusive of each other. Tail switch clicky also locks out all parasitic E-switch drain. My ThorFire S70 has this exact mode set up, I like it a lot, no surprises for the user when turned on.
8.) Two protective ears with lanyard slots around the switch. The Thorfire S70 has a really nice beveled tapper on the tactical ring or cigar ring before they got tacticool.
9.) Strobe could very well be just a long press on the e-switch. But then that’s whats locked into for the tail switch.
10.) Knurling, I’m picturing the new Convoy L6 body tube cut for 1 cell and tail cap. That tube has 4mm thick walls should be very tough and heat absorbent. I want to have the light evenly heat up from head to tail. Simons using a 10 amp switch in a tail cap that’s nearly the same diameter as the body. This makes for easy holstering in a leather or Kydex holster I also want the cigar ring and spacer option.
11.) Modes, Moonlight 1 lumen or less, low, medium, high at 3-4 amps, turbo at 8 amps. Strobe off the main menu accessed with a long press.
12.) Stainless steel bezel, shallow .
13.) 1mm plated high copper spring so no by pass needed. Most springs are 0.4-0.8mm’s, 1mm really increases amp load and lows resistance. 0.8mm spring only has 64% of the load capacity of 1mm.
14.) Head fins should be well below the bezel, thick and only moderately deep. As an example I use the Supfire L5 as the finest to the Thorfire S70 as the coarsest. Thick fins to resist damage. Without good air flow fin are decorations. Even without airflow fins do give some grip assistance.
Once again I would like to thank every one for their interest into this project. It’s the first one I’ve ever tried. These are the initial specs as I see them. Anyone wanting to post on parts; driver, optics and such please do. All feed back is very welcomed.
Maybe 130mm length, should be compact and easily worn on the belt for daily virtually invisible carry.
38-40mm head with a 35mm optic
30mm tube (with 7075 Al, there’s no need for 5mm thick walls) Tail cap should be enough larger than the tube to act as a stop so the light won’t slip through gloved cold hands as easily, also aids in pulling the light from a holster. Locating a proper holster might be a good idea for the group, this can ultimately aid in the design of the light. Head down would be preferable to protect the lens and make for a quick grab and deploy.
GITD stuff needs to be charged, has a high likelihood of being dormant when the light is being searched for, also likely to melt onto the domes and fry emitters at triple power levels. (I’ve made repairs to these)
XP-L V6 is a likely emitter, no need for the new lower powered XP-G3’s
Possible dual switches, tail switch for sheer safety and consistency is pretty much a must
Options in the firmware to allow a wider variety of set-up for different user sets
Dan’s made a light or two, knurling or ribs or whatever he likes for cold, wet, gloves, women, men, dogs, monkeys…
Fins at the proper place for cooling, even and behind the emitter shelf. Fins on heads are cosmetic for the most part. Again I trust Dan’s instincts and experience to build a hard working light.
Looks like Dan gets to spend some time in Solid Works (or equivalent) 
I like everything Texas Shooter said along with the size revisions Dale made. Good point on the GITD material, first time I had heard of it happening but makes since. The only other thing I have yet to see pointed out is what length batteries we are trying to accommodate? What’s the longest 26650 available, 71mm? Shortest being 66mm? It would be great if could run off of the 5200mah protected Keeppowers but I’m not sure if they could handle the current. I also recall reverse polarity being built into it and I agree. No need in risking someone inserting a cell backwards and trying to light it up in turbo if it can be avoided. Besides that I think we are go.
Yes… international shipping is expensive. We sent a 1 pound 2 oz box to Australia just yesterday and it was $75.79. That was USPS international medium flat rate which is about as cheap as we can find. Fed X can get close to the USPS cost but just in certain areas. Small flat rate international was $33.45 I think… but the goods wouldn’t squeeze in there.
Perhaps there will be enough USA interest. TL
FWIW, y’all can go to WalMart and have a look at the Maglite ML25LT, it’s got a 43mm head and 30mm battery tube. Pretty chunky “pocket special”. Doable, but stretching it.
My chopped variant shows me that the tail cap the same size as the battery tube is prone to slippage. That’s it’s major drawback.
I’ll give this a proper look tomorrow when I can focus. We can do copper as an add on for those that want it just as we can most other variances that folks want. I’ll need to go look at these lights mentioned as I don’t look at enough lights to have the designs in my head. We can offer these as a host as well if there is an interest. Thanks All!! TL
YES PLEASE about the battery length… and diameter. Anyone having, using any brand of 26650 cells that could measure length and diameter… that info will be of help. If there is a wide range in length, we may want to toss in a couple of different thickness spacers or We bore most 26650 lights to 1.040”. It is all certainly adjustable. Thanks. TL
Edit… it would be nice if we had these sizes in one posting.
I agree anything larger than 40mm is a bit big for pocket light. My EA4 was a 40mm body and it felt great. It was just right for both belt and pocket carry.
That’s crazy shipping. If it’s something similar for this light then I’m out as well. Besides the specs are taking a different way to my interests, having a pill instead of led shelf sounds too much like a cooly except it has no side switch.
Efest 3500mAh (light purple) 26.1 x 66.9mm
Efest 4200mAh (dark purple) 25.9 x 67.1mm
King Kong 4000mAh (Gold) 26.1 x 65.3mm
King Kong 5000mAh (Gold) 26.0 x 70.6mm 26700
Moli (Green) 26 x 70.1mm 26700
Powerizer (Orange) LiNiMnCo 26650 26.1 x 65.4mm
Basen 4500mAh (Black) 26.1 x 66.1mm
Keeppower 5200mAh (Black) 26.1 x 67.2mm
(Shhhhh! I’m sick! :P)
Dale thanks for replying your work has always been top notch. Your input means a lot. I pulled my spec out of the air with what experience I have. 140-150mm because my Solarforce is 140mm and the Supfire L5 26650 is 143mm’s their lengths are just right. A little more or less isn’t an issue.
I thought a 45mm head would give 5mm’s clearance in keeping the optics from being partially block by the bezel. I just measured the bezel on Solarforce is 3.5mm’s. So 35mm optic 3.5 mm bezel but the bezel partially covers the optic to hold it into place, looks like we are at 40mm’s for the head.
XP-L V6 triple, it’s one less LED to mess with. GITD, leave that to after market rings to go in the fins. Not part of the build.
Fins on the head, few and thick. Probably around 4 to 5 fins. The design is not so much for cooling as it is for grip. In a tail down holster that’s what your pulling on.
Most holsters are tail down. Head down holster usually consist of a cup holding the head while plastic clips pinch the body. Push the tail out and pull. Great for skinny to average officers. Larger officers it’s an issue gut pushes the tail out. It happen with the average ones also, sit down reach over to one side and you just popped the the body out of the clip. Good news is the light says in the cup but is now less than secure.
I’ve only seen those holsters for the 1” bodied lights.
The body tube is one of the important features on this build and I’m really set on 35mm’s. Solarforce uses 3.25mm thick tubes and that only for a 18650. Convoy L2 and L6 use 4.13mm thick tubes, Thorfire S70 uses 3.94mm thick tubes. The Supfire L5 uses 3.14mm thick body tube and it’s a single cell 26650. Convoy’s L2 and L6 outer diameter is 35.1mm, S70 is 34.925mm, L5 is 33mm’s. A 30mm tube with battery clearance is going to give me thin 1.5mm walls. With the head being relatively small for an 8 amp triple, the light needs a thicker body tube to act as a heat wick to and let the user know it’s getting hot. Using the 35.1mm L2 style checkered knurled tube will give me that 4.13mm wick.
I wanted a heavier light for several reason. Heft, something to say stout, tough construction. Realistically Cops, Firefighters and Soldiers are hard on equipment. Will it survive what ever armpit they find themselves in. Heat management, for 8 amps but also for 3-4 amp high mode. With more mass to heat up and better to wick away with your hand. This should aid long runs on high mode possibly with out thermal protection kicking in. Some of this is psychological, when I have two choices on equipment I pick the tougher looking item. Often it’s also the heavier piece. I expect my equipment to last longer than myself. Would Rick Grimes give up his machete for this light.