BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

thank you very much Dale for your very informative video of the configuration methodology.

- patrick

Wow. Your mismatched set means weā€™ll have at least one other member with a mismatched SS/Cu setā€¦ but it could birdnest further quite easily. Its going to get interesting.

I have read that many times already, and it just didnā€™t sink inā€¦ looks like mixing was unintentional, but reported and expected.

I am so envious of the members that had the steady resolve to examine the shipping options. I did not, and according to tracking, for the last two days, my set still sits in Shenzhen, still ā€œpreparing for shipment,ā€ even though it already shipped that far. My guess is the tracking is not quite accurate.

Youā€™re welcome.
Initially I started the video and couldnā€™t get it to go into config mode, I was clicking too fast. :stuck_out_tongue:
In the same way that the reverse clicky is a fairly long press and hold, because of that we canā€™t click too fast to get the configuration mode, the off time cap isnā€™t registering the delay at faster speeds.
Weā€™ve had to adjust to this kind of difference with every sample set, they keep making some kind of change that alters the timing and this time, the final time, itā€™s not real obvious what they did. Iā€™ve been using this firmware of TKā€™s for quite some time now, Iā€™m used to a half second delay so these are really different. Oh well, theyā€™re deliberate anyway. :slight_smile:

Compared against my 2nd x5, NSFW, I dropped the s bomb.

Just remember that it does not have to be the exact amount. Just click as many times as you want and however you want. 20-25ā€¦ Once it passes the set point you will be in config. A light touch at the edge of the switch is responsive.

Have you seen the thread for tail light development?

There are some pretty fancy things afoot. :slight_smile:

Haha, sorry to make it such a chore. :slight_smile:

But seriously. If anyone has a better idea how to scroll through the menu options with only one ā€œpixelā€ and a reboot switch, lemme know. It can be a bit tricky, considering that every button press literally reboots the light. So, achieving any sort of continuity of logic flow across button presses is ā€¦ awkward.

Okayā€¦ Since people asked, I made an estimate of how many lumens to expect from each level in each mode group on the production lights.

Note that these are (mostly) calculated, not measured. But they should be fairly close:

  1. 1400 lm
  2. 5, 1400
  3. 5, 293, 1400
  4. 5, 135, 543, 1400
  5. 5, 79, 293, 688, 1400
  6. 5, 54, 178, 419, 813, 1400
  7. 5, 47, 135, 293, 543, 858, 1400
  8. 5, 35, 99, 213, 365, 613, 953, 1400

ā€¦ and muggle mode:

  • 5, 163, 688

Moon on mine measures around 0.30 to 0.35 lm, and the tailcap measures around 0.03 lm.

ā€¦

Note for my own reference: lumens estimated with: level_calc.py 64 1 10 1400 y 2 0.2 140
(I measured low at ~5.3 lm, then measured a few more modes, and found that this curve fit best except for the lowest mode)

The defaults are the left-most option on every row at the bottom of the UI diagram, and it defaults to mode group 6. So, that means:

  1. Muggle mode off.
  2. Mode memory off.
  3. Moon on.
  4. Mode order low to high.
  5. Mode group 6.
  6. Medium press on.
  7. Thermal calibration 79 attiny units (not sure what this is in C or F, varies per unit).

ā€¦ and you can restore these settings by activating the factory reset option.

It looks like youā€™ve got a hardware problem. Itā€™s likely that the OTC is shorted or something, so that it always thinks you did a long press no matter how fast you tap the button. Do you have the ability to open it up and look at the driver? Youā€™ll probably need to open the bezel, un-solder the leads from the emitter star, then remove the driver from the back. (Iā€™m assuming they didnā€™t use long enough wire to access the driver while itā€™s still attached)

It may be something you can fix with a quick tap of a soldering iron, or it may require a new driver. Hard to say without actually seeing it.

Oh, this reminds meā€¦ something worth mentioning:

Muggle mode does not have the full config menu. The only config option in muggle mode is ā€œexit muggle modeā€.

So, if you enter config mode while muggle is activated, it will blink once, buzz, then return to regular output. Click during the buzz to get out of muggle mode.

Nope, the production units ended up one firmware revision before that landed.

I prefer group 9 also, the ā€œdjozz specialā€ group, but itā€™s not there. Because of this, Iā€™ll likely be reflashing all of mine even if I have to un-solder a few parts to get flashing to work.

If drivers are sold by themselves later, like, if another batch gets made, Iā€™m guessing theyā€™ll probably have the newer code on them.

To be crystal clear, in the production firmware, there is no mode group that includes 100% 7135?

Are the clips on the lights when they arrive!?

Cheers, Iā€™ll get in touch with Banggood and see what they can do!

The clips came on both my X5ā€™s on the al sets but not the X6ā€™s.
I havenā€™t received my ss\cu sets yet so I donā€™t know about those lights

Correct.

The diff shows the exact details, but the short version is that the two closest levels at the time were:

  • 7135 at 249/255, FET at 0/255
  • 7135 at 255/255, FET at 1/255

None of them settled exactly on:

  • 7135 at 255/255, FET at 0/255

The Nov2015 revision changed this to ensure one level would fall exactly on full 7135 with no FET, and then assigned that level in a few places.

Visually though, itā€™d be extremely difficult to tell the difference. The PWM runs at 15.6 kHz, too fast to see unless you look very closely with a thin fast-moving white card with the output set between ~5 and ~120 lumens. Above 140 lumens, the emitter never actually shuts offā€¦ so the PWM toggles between bright and brighter. This is nearly impossible to see without specialized equipment.

LOL, my shipment went from China to The Netherlands (Amsterdam) to Hong Kong.. Whut?!

my battery check is way different than the A6. can someone explain what all those extra blinks mean?

Ok, please keep this as a thread, I am neither a EE or a firmware programmer, but it would be like watching a rocket being built before launch. Fascinating, and while I will not understand everything going on, it will be amazing to watch (read in this case). It would be worth the time, even if my role is just a monkey watching this collaborative ballet of talentā€¦.

Just my thoughtsā€¦

ToyKeeper, this UI is fantastic! Thank you sincerely for your labors on this projectā€¦