This is the mode group that interests me. Does group 9 still exist? I don’t care about the numbers, just determining the single group that includes 100% 7135… unclear if that has changed from the last tweaks ToyKeeper intended that weren’t implemented, thus still group 9? I think probably not. By all descriptions of the high-freq PWM, the group that includes 100% 7135 may not be at all obvious. My confidence is high that someone will rescue me when I do finally get to program my sets.
NightSpy wrote:
I might throw in C) where they simply turn 150 new X6 (SS) body tubes and serialize them 251 – 400. I’m assuming the X6 body is cheaper to produce, and much easier to protect from manufacturing mishaps.
My SS/CU set arrived today. They are also the wrong serial number. Not a problem for me. But the X6 SN is 353 of 400 and the X5 SN is 294 of 400.
Aardvark Spleen, you’re clicking too fast… the offtime cap isn’t able to register the delays because you’re moving through too quickly.
Slow it down, click the 16 times or until it quits responding, then on the 1 blink stutter turn it off. This will take you out of muggle mode.
Edit: If you can get in configuration mode, wait out level 8 then turn it off. This will set it to factory default.
thank you very much Dale for your very informative video of the configuration methodology.
- patrick
Wow. Your mismatched set means we’ll have at least one other member with a mismatched SS/Cu set… but it could birdnest further quite easily. Its going to get interesting.
I have read that many times already, and it just didn’t sink in… looks like mixing was unintentional, but reported and expected.
I am so envious of the members that had the steady resolve to examine the shipping options. I did not, and according to tracking, for the last two days, my set still sits in Shenzhen, still “preparing for shipment,” even though it already shipped that far. My guess is the tracking is not quite accurate.
You’re welcome.
Initially I started the video and couldn’t get it to go into config mode, I was clicking too fast. 
In the same way that the reverse clicky is a fairly long press and hold, because of that we can’t click too fast to get the configuration mode, the off time cap isn’t registering the delay at faster speeds.
We’ve had to adjust to this kind of difference with every sample set, they keep making some kind of change that alters the timing and this time, the final time, it’s not real obvious what they did. I’ve been using this firmware of TK’s for quite some time now, I’m used to a half second delay so these are really different. Oh well, they’re deliberate anyway. 
Compared against my 2nd x5, NSFW, I dropped the s bomb.
Just remember that it does not have to be the exact amount. Just click as many times as you want and however you want. 20-25… Once it passes the set point you will be in config. A light touch at the edge of the switch is responsive.
Have you seen the thread for tail light development?
There are some pretty fancy things afoot.
Haha, sorry to make it such a chore.
But seriously. If anyone has a better idea how to scroll through the menu options with only one “pixel” and a reboot switch, lemme know. It can be a bit tricky, considering that every button press literally reboots the light. So, achieving any sort of continuity of logic flow across button presses is … awkward.
Okay… Since people asked, I made an estimate of how many lumens to expect from each level in each mode group on the production lights.
Note that these are (mostly) calculated, not measured. But they should be fairly close:
- 1400 lm
- 5, 1400
- 5, 293, 1400
- 5, 135, 543, 1400
- 5, 79, 293, 688, 1400
- 5, 54, 178, 419, 813, 1400
- 5, 47, 135, 293, 543, 858, 1400
- 5, 35, 99, 213, 365, 613, 953, 1400
… and muggle mode:
- 5, 163, 688
Moon on mine measures around 0.30 to 0.35 lm, and the tailcap measures around 0.03 lm.
…
Note for my own reference: lumens estimated with: level_calc.py 64 1 10 1400 y 2 0.2 140
(I measured low at ~5.3 lm, then measured a few more modes, and found that this curve fit best except for the lowest mode)
The defaults are the left-most option on every row at the bottom of the UI diagram, and it defaults to mode group 6. So, that means:
- Muggle mode off.
- Mode memory off.
- Moon on.
- Mode order low to high.
- Mode group 6.
- Medium press on.
- Thermal calibration 79 attiny units (not sure what this is in C or F, varies per unit).
… and you can restore these settings by activating the factory reset option.
It looks like you’ve got a hardware problem. It’s likely that the OTC is shorted or something, so that it always thinks you did a long press no matter how fast you tap the button. Do you have the ability to open it up and look at the driver? You’ll probably need to open the bezel, un-solder the leads from the emitter star, then remove the driver from the back. (I’m assuming they didn’t use long enough wire to access the driver while it’s still attached)
It may be something you can fix with a quick tap of a soldering iron, or it may require a new driver. Hard to say without actually seeing it.
Oh, this reminds me… something worth mentioning:
Muggle mode does not have the full config menu. The only config option in muggle mode is “exit muggle mode”.
So, if you enter config mode while muggle is activated, it will blink once, buzz, then return to regular output. Click during the buzz to get out of muggle mode.
Nope, the production units ended up one firmware revision before that landed.
I prefer group 9 also, the “djozz special” group, but it’s not there. Because of this, I’ll likely be reflashing all of mine even if I have to un-solder a few parts to get flashing to work.
If drivers are sold by themselves later, like, if another batch gets made, I’m guessing they’ll probably have the newer code on them.
To be crystal clear, in the production firmware, there is no mode group that includes 100% 7135?
Are the clips on the lights when they arrive!?
Cheers, I’ll get in touch with Banggood and see what they can do!
The clips came on both my X5’s on the al sets but not the X6’s.
I haven’t received my ss\cu sets yet so I don’t know about those lights
Correct.
The diff shows the exact details, but the short version is that the two closest levels at the time were:
- 7135 at 249/255, FET at 0/255
- 7135 at 255/255, FET at 1/255
None of them settled exactly on:
- 7135 at 255/255, FET at 0/255
The Nov2015 revision changed this to ensure one level would fall exactly on full 7135 with no FET, and then assigned that level in a few places.
Visually though, it’d be extremely difficult to tell the difference. The PWM runs at 15.6 kHz, too fast to see unless you look very closely with a thin fast-moving white card with the output set between ~5 and ~120 lumens. Above 140 lumens, the emitter never actually shuts off… so the PWM toggles between bright and brighter. This is nearly impossible to see without specialized equipment.