ger-slash, no, you’re not wrong… I too understand where Ken’s coming from and realize much of the issue is with wording and phrase style of someone that doesn’t speak English natively. S*it happens.
Everyone who bought the matching box gets a full matching set. The serial number issues are only with the no-box sets.
I'm a dummy, I can't get it out of muggle mode. It flashes once, stutters and goes to medium or high mode. I tried short pressing during the stutter and turning it off during stutter. :/
Here ya go Sharpie, ver 013 of Wights FET+1
SOOC
Sharpie - I can positively confirm what PD68 says is correct, as many others can. There's been 100's, probably 1000's of these drivers built, and the 2 resistor voltage divider is always the same way, and works. It originated from the Nanjg 105C driver that we easily reversed engineered (very simple design) wayyy back.
Without the thru hole definitions you could be missing the V+ connection, as shown in this design here in the OP: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/31102, here on OSHPark: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/7sNNyipn
Dale - where is ver 013 of Wights FET+1 from??? Latest was always v009?
Someone asked much earlier in the thread:
That’s how mine showed up:
The clip looks squashed — too tight to get a folded cloth seam up into the bend, and too loose at the open end to stay on
Just asking if this looks typical to others who’ve gotten aluminum X5s, before I consider trying to fix that with vise and pliers, since I went through this with the original A6 and the clips just snapped. (The KronoX5 clip came installed, and is so tight I haven’t gotten it off the flashlight yet, broke a few thumbnails trying; the KronoX6 clip is not installed, not looked carefully at that yet)
(I tried getting replacements for those original A6 clips and was defeated by customer service)
When I build a Zener modded version of this to run a 6V emitter, I change the ADC settings in the firmware to accommodate the higher voltage from 2 cells. Works fine. Pretty sure everyone else does it this way as well, or turns off LVP by commenting it out in the firmware.
I just built 2 very different lights with MT-G2 emitters a couple of days ago, the larger one runs a pair of 26650’s for 10.45A, the smaller runs 2 18350’s for 6.31A (an extension tube allows use of 2 18650’s for 11.34A)
Like Tom, I’ve built dozens and dozens of these. Maybe 100 or more myself, not keeping track. I even build a 10mm variant. (Fun, that!)
Zoom Zoom, may I ask… when you clicked off during the stutter how long did you wait before turning it back on?
I know some people are still in the waiting list and haven’t received their codes, I have a SS/Cu X6 available which I reserved from nitro, if you are in the waiting list and missed this GB and still want the light please reply here.
I paid $45 shipped but I think it is worth more than that. Again this light is in nitro’s hands, I just reserved it for the right buyer (one of the members in the waiting list)… It’s not for me as I have my own set on the way.
3-5 seconds, since you asked I went ahead and tried it again a couple times and waited 10-15 seconds. I've tried removing the cell after shutting it off too.
Bugsy my family owns a machine shop and have for over fifty years,I will tell you if we made our parts with scratches dents ect we would be out of business in a flash it is not that hard to protect metal parts, so you down playing members problems is not right. I understand you put your time into these lights and we all appreciate it but when theirs problems with them please don’t blame the buyers, we all put our hard earned money buying them.
mine arrived today - charging up batteries - thanks krono!
The tailcap light is to bright for my taste. I've read that Dale replaced the resistor with another one to make it less bright, but can't find how much ohm he used. I thought it was 21k. Anyone?
I hear you man and I agree with half of your sentiment - folks should be allowed to express their honest thoughts. So far, best I can tell, they have been. Sure the organizers may have something to say back but that’s their right too.
Leaving that aside, can I ask you a simple question: would your family have built these lights for this price? I mean, that’s what it comes down to. There’s a vibrant market for perfect custom flashlights. Just check out that other popular forum if you want to see how that works. But those perfect lights cost many hundreds, sometimes thousands, of dollars. Maybe the organizers should have put a big disclaimer in post #1 — “We’re building working lights out of awesome materials, not show pieces and shelf queens!” But I kinda understood that anyway. I mean why else would we have them made in China, other than to do it cheaply?
So I really do understand your sentiment but I think folks are being a bit touchy about these lights. Are they perfect? No, they’re not. Are they an amazing value? Damn right they are. Do I feel like I got my money’s worth? Sure do, and then some.
But then that’s just my opinion.
My SS/Cu sets arrived! Very minor damage to the boxes. Cosmetically both sets look fantastic!
My first Al set arrived! The “boxes” look good. Love the logo! The only issue I have is that the clip for the X5 came installed and the bend radius is way too small to be useful. There’s no way I can clip it to my jeans. The bend radius on the SS/Cu X5 clips are much larger and useful looking.
Fantastic work team Kronos!
He stacked two 22k to get 11k. Somewhere between 6.8k and 12k is probably where you want to be
SS/Cu set #169 checking in.
Supremely well built lights indeed.
I may have the get an AL set as well now.
My x5 clip is the same.
Most of the dents, scratches are not from the machine process, they are likely from debur cleaning process, not keeping parts separate, as for making these lights for the group buy, I think we could be competitive with pricing, maybe not match it exactly but with reasonable range.