So you too have been promoted to yellow background capabilities? 
Congratulations & welcome to a very exclusive club. 
Wow that’s fast!!
I ordered the BLF set on 02-07-16!! Tracking says its in ISC Chicago (USPS) since 02-21-16, and today is 03-09-16!!! I doubt I’ll ever recieve them. 
Email is by no means perfect. It doesn’t always arrive and sometimes gets misfiled.
Just got another unboxed SS/Cu set today which was ordered on 2/20 and shipped 2/24. Looks like I was just in time as the BLF versions seem to be all sold out. I also ordered a Al 1A set on 2/28 and it shipped on 3/4 and already arrived in New York on 3/8. Looking forward to comparing the difference between the 1A tint and my 3B set.
My 3B Aluminium set was ordered 8th March and has been dispatched. I’m pretty pleased with this as the bumf said it could have been 10-15 days or so before shipment.
I have measured voltage drop over typical tail-sections (small Omten switch on circuit board) from tip of (silicone wire bypassed!) spring to brass retaining ring a few times, and without having the actual numbers at hand, at 6A I get drops in the order of 50-100mV. A bare small Omten gives typically 45mV drop at 6A (link)
For the “optimistic” comment, let me say this. I use a pretty long loop of 12 ga Turnigy wire. I have tested a light in the lightbox fully assembled as well as using the 12 ga loop with no tail cap. Every time I’ve taken the lumens reading both ways, it’s always HIGHER with the light fully assembled.
Hi George,
I PM’d Neal/Banggood on 17th February regarding my two faulty lights (both have driver problems that render them unusable), and have yet to hear back. I’m currently pursuing a different route of communication and will give that some time before pushing any further (though I may need to check how much time I have with PayPal, if I need to raise a dispute).
Cheers,
Chris
Interesting. Can you elaborate on “pretty long loop”? Are we talking 4inches? 8inches?
Pressure on holding wires, contact surfaces, oxidation on the wire ends can make big differences. I’ve seen this same, exact result Dale has gotten though - assembled light is higher readings when the assembled light has a decent switch and bypassed springs. Not sure if it’s been every time, but I’ve seen it often — really not sure if it’s 100% though.
No bypassed springs though - 12 AWG wire across the tail is higher. Basically I uses this method often to determine if a spring bypass is needed (almost always), and how much difference it makes - it’s almost always quite an impressive difference.
Hhmm, ok. Thought the #’s/impact of the double spring was already published/discussed? For “benefit much”, much is the key word. I’ve already ditched the double springs on my AL/Cu X6’s and Cu X5’s and have bypass 22 AWG wires in a single spring now, and it’s a bump - can’t recall how “much” of a bump though, and probably didn’t note before/after #’s on just that mod.
The double spring thing is a band-aid.
When we mod these lights and see over 6A, the trace on the pcb is more in danger of frying than the springs collapsing. With a triple at 9-11A, or more, this becomes much more obvious. This is why I started drilling a hole through the pcb and running the spring bypass wire straight through the board and to the switch itself.
No offense intended to PD, but I’d just as soon get away from the lighted tail cap. It, for me, is gimmicky and serves no real purpose but the con’s are potentially huge. (tactical situ, can’t go dark. Drivers aren’t working right or are very finicky, constant drain on cells, no real need to “locate” a light that sits on my belt.)
No offense taken! I think it serves a specific purpose, and can add a bit of a “cool” factor, but it’s definitely not for everyone or every situation. In fact most of my own lights don’t have it, just the 4-5 that see a real benefit from it.
I think most of the drawbacks of it are amplified by having it mass produced and not tailored to individual user’s needs.
So true Sharpie, so true.
I put a 10,000K resistor on my switch board and added a hot pink LED, half blue/half pink. Draw is ~0.15mA. With a 12,000K resistor and 2 blue LED’s I’m seeing a draw of only 0.13mA. Pretty dim, not lighting up a room at night for sure, but there when needed. The all blue tail cap is on my new Astrolux SC sitting on the shelf. The blue/pink is on my Quad Cu X5 on my belt. Probably going to do away with tail glow on this quad as it’s always in a known place so locating it isn’t necessary.
As usual, it’s all got a great deal to do with one’s personal perspective.
I’m wondering … How could one disable the tailcap LED?
(As mentioned before, personal preference.)
I personally think that glowing tailcap button thoroughly destroys the classy persona of the otherwise very handsome X5.
Remove the resistor on the switch pcb. Isn’t even necessary to completely remove it, desolder one end and lift it slightly to break contact, leave it “stovepiped” in place.
The best way involves a soldering iron. You just need to remove 2 resistors. If you are so inclined I or others can point out what is required in better detail.
Well, does it need to be mentioned again that the PD designed tailcap PCB includes beefier traces so that Dale’s through-board switch wire bypass is not needed? Slowly but surely, FrankenDale is being deprecated! 
Anyone tried something like this in the tailcap, instead of clickety-clickety-switch?
Those switches are for configuring purposes only, with minimal current rating and switching cycles (30 mA at 30 Vdc for 10,000 cycles of operation).