No offense taken! I think it serves a specific purpose, and can add a bit of a “cool” factor, but it’s definitely not for everyone or every situation. In fact most of my own lights don’t have it, just the 4-5 that see a real benefit from it.
I think most of the drawbacks of it are amplified by having it mass produced and not tailored to individual user’s needs.
So true Sharpie, so true.
I put a 10,000K resistor on my switch board and added a hot pink LED, half blue/half pink. Draw is ~0.15mA. With a 12,000K resistor and 2 blue LED’s I’m seeing a draw of only 0.13mA. Pretty dim, not lighting up a room at night for sure, but there when needed. The all blue tail cap is on my new Astrolux SC sitting on the shelf. The blue/pink is on my Quad Cu X5 on my belt. Probably going to do away with tail glow on this quad as it’s always in a known place so locating it isn’t necessary.
As usual, it’s all got a great deal to do with one’s personal perspective.
I’m wondering … How could one disable the tailcap LED?
(As mentioned before, personal preference.)
I personally think that glowing tailcap button thoroughly destroys the classy persona of the otherwise very handsome X5.
Remove the resistor on the switch pcb. Isn’t even necessary to completely remove it, desolder one end and lift it slightly to break contact, leave it “stovepiped” in place.
The best way involves a soldering iron. You just need to remove 2 resistors. If you are so inclined I or others can point out what is required in better detail.
Well, does it need to be mentioned again that the PD designed tailcap PCB includes beefier traces so that Dale’s through-board switch wire bypass is not needed? Slowly but surely, FrankenDale is being deprecated! 
Anyone tried something like this in the tailcap, instead of clickety-clickety-switch?
Those switches are for configuring purposes only, with minimal current rating and switching cycles (30 mA at 30 Vdc for 10,000 cycles of operation).
I’m interested in your detailed instructions.
Thank You
+1. I would be interested in the instructions as well, just in case.
If nobody else has answered before this evening I’ll take some pictures and draw some arrows.
Keep in mind removing these resistors will probably affect how the switch timing works. That could be a good thing or it could be a bad thing, idk.
I feel like a big dummy for being slightly too late to this hobby to get in on the SS/Cu group buy, but this seems absolutely right. My aluminum set is still very nice (and, by all accounts, more plausible for EDC use), and the people who committed hundreds of dollars (or more) to get this venture off the ground deserve thanks.
I had the same thing happen with my BLF A6, tracking had it stuck in ISC for ages and ages, then I checked the order page again and there was a different tracking number listed. When I eventually got the package, there were two shipping labels one on top of the other — I think it was rejected by customs for some reason, and Banggood just slapped a new label on it and tossed it back in the mail. Don’t lose hope!
Yes, I was thinking of them for configuration — not for switching the full power of the flashlight but for choosing options.
Is it still possible to get it with box? I want to get one x6 with box.
I guess shipping to Turkey won’t be reasonable.
Chris, it is VERY DISAPPOINTING to hear about Banggood's lack of response since 17th February regarding your 2 faulty lights.
Please, Need feedback from any & all BLF members that are not getting a response from Banggood.
Best Regards,
George
George, is there a reason you’re asking for this feedback?
Yes PD, there is. 
Best Regards,
George
Hopefully my cell phone pictures will be clear enough to see what I’m talking about.
Disclaimer: Messing with these resistors will probably have effects on switch short/medium/long press timing. It shouldn’t be anything drastic, and it may even be a positive effect, but be aware.
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If you unscrew the switch retaining ring, this is what will come out.
Circled is the resistor that sets the brightness of the tail led. The stock resistor is 2kOhm. If you want the tail to be a different brightness, change this resistor. The higher the resistor value, the lower the brightness. Other people have had good luck with 8-12kOhm resistors. If you are ordering these resistors, look for either “0603” or “0805” package sizes. If you search, they can easily be found all over the internet.
If you want to shut off the tail LED altogether, remove this resistor or at least disconnect one end of it.
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If you unscrew the driver retaining ring, this is what will come out.
Circled is the bleeder resistor. This resistor allows a small amount of power to bypass the driver and main LED at all times. The driver needs this to function when the tail LED is installed. It is not absolutely necessary to remove it if you only want to get rid of the glowing blue light, but removing the bleeder will greatly increase efficiency in the lowest mode(s).