> astrolux SC
Don’t forget, it also comes with the new and improved pocket clip that actually fits the seam on ordinary pants.
Well worth the double price, for those who like that sort of thing.
I wrote to heyanqing1(at)banggood.com on 19.02.2016 and got an Answer on 25.02.2016 with the first words “Dear Sir: I am sorry for the late reply.”. Ten days later I have found this reply in my Spam folder. Now it is solved and I will got parts to replace on the lights.
Wieselflinkpro, that is Good news Indeed, & Thank you Very Much for your Greatly Appreciated information. 
Why aren't we all getting the same service & response from Banggood?
Please, Need feedback from any & all affected members.
Best Regards,
George
We have afflicted members? OMG! 
Yes indeed, there are MANY affected AND afflicted members. 
I’ve been called worse. :-/
We have members whose text comes out yellow.
At work I’ve got a Keithley 580 Micro-Ohmmeter, I measured the resistance of the X6 AL and SS tubes. Measuring to the end of the tubes I got 0.06 mOhms for the AL tube and 1.6 mOhms on the SS tube.
Looking back at voltage drop numbers I got with the two tubes, and E=IR that would imply that with the SS tube I was running at 3 amps and with the AL tube it was running at 113 amps. I doubt either is correct I would expect more than 3 amps and way less than 113 amps. I think the contact resistance at the end of the AL tubes is more than the resistance of the tube its self. And with the SS tube it makes contact all through the threads so you don’t have the resistance of the full lenght of the tube.
Retesting the drop over the tube with a rested Elfast Purple that measures 4.18v I get 5.7mV for the SS tube and 5.0mV with the AL tube now.
So you too have been promoted to yellow background capabilities? 
Congratulations & welcome to a very exclusive club. 
Wow that’s fast!!
I ordered the BLF set on 02-07-16!! Tracking says its in ISC Chicago (USPS) since 02-21-16, and today is 03-09-16!!! I doubt I’ll ever recieve them. 
Email is by no means perfect. It doesn’t always arrive and sometimes gets misfiled.
Just got another unboxed SS/Cu set today which was ordered on 2/20 and shipped 2/24. Looks like I was just in time as the BLF versions seem to be all sold out. I also ordered a Al 1A set on 2/28 and it shipped on 3/4 and already arrived in New York on 3/8. Looking forward to comparing the difference between the 1A tint and my 3B set.
My 3B Aluminium set was ordered 8th March and has been dispatched. I’m pretty pleased with this as the bumf said it could have been 10-15 days or so before shipment.
I have measured voltage drop over typical tail-sections (small Omten switch on circuit board) from tip of (silicone wire bypassed!) spring to brass retaining ring a few times, and without having the actual numbers at hand, at 6A I get drops in the order of 50-100mV. A bare small Omten gives typically 45mV drop at 6A (link)
For the “optimistic” comment, let me say this. I use a pretty long loop of 12 ga Turnigy wire. I have tested a light in the lightbox fully assembled as well as using the 12 ga loop with no tail cap. Every time I’ve taken the lumens reading both ways, it’s always HIGHER with the light fully assembled.
Hi George,
I PM’d Neal/Banggood on 17th February regarding my two faulty lights (both have driver problems that render them unusable), and have yet to hear back. I’m currently pursuing a different route of communication and will give that some time before pushing any further (though I may need to check how much time I have with PayPal, if I need to raise a dispute).
Cheers,
Chris
Interesting. Can you elaborate on “pretty long loop”? Are we talking 4inches? 8inches?
Pressure on holding wires, contact surfaces, oxidation on the wire ends can make big differences. I’ve seen this same, exact result Dale has gotten though - assembled light is higher readings when the assembled light has a decent switch and bypassed springs. Not sure if it’s been every time, but I’ve seen it often — really not sure if it’s 100% though.
No bypassed springs though - 12 AWG wire across the tail is higher. Basically I uses this method often to determine if a spring bypass is needed (almost always), and how much difference it makes - it’s almost always quite an impressive difference.
Hhmm, ok. Thought the #’s/impact of the double spring was already published/discussed? For “benefit much”, much is the key word. I’ve already ditched the double springs on my AL/Cu X6’s and Cu X5’s and have bypass 22 AWG wires in a single spring now, and it’s a bump - can’t recall how “much” of a bump though, and probably didn’t note before/after #’s on just that mod.
The double spring thing is a band-aid.
When we mod these lights and see over 6A, the trace on the pcb is more in danger of frying than the springs collapsing. With a triple at 9-11A, or more, this becomes much more obvious. This is why I started drilling a hole through the pcb and running the spring bypass wire straight through the board and to the switch itself.
No offense intended to PD, but I’d just as soon get away from the lighted tail cap. It, for me, is gimmicky and serves no real purpose but the con’s are potentially huge. (tactical situ, can’t go dark. Drivers aren’t working right or are very finicky, constant drain on cells, no real need to “locate” a light that sits on my belt.)