BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

akhyar · March 11, 2016, 3:20am

You can always get the Astrolux brand, minus the box though

Lund1660 · March 11, 2016, 3:54am

I have an aluminum x6, I can’t tell if their is thermal paste under the led, if I unscrew the two screw holding the led is their enough spare wire length to lift the board to put thermal paste down or do I have to desolder the negative positive wires?

Coscar · March 11, 2016, 4:37am

Banggood says original Alum code(3aeb2e) has reached 300 limit……. anyone know if there will be another one?

timbo114 · March 11, 2016, 5:20am

PM to me your full mailing info and I’ll certainly check into it for you.

timbo114 · March 11, 2016, 5:21am

Thanks for the good info PD.

Rufusbduck · March 11, 2016, 5:41am

pilotdog68:

timbo114:

I’m wondering … How could one disable the tailcap LED?

Hopefully my cell phone pictures will be clear enough to see what I’m talking about.

Disclaimer: Messing with these resistors will probably have effects on switch short/medium/long press timing. It shouldn’t be anything drastic, and it may even be a positive effect, but be aware.
…………………………………………………………………………

If you unscrew the switch retaining ring, this is what will come out.

Circled is the resistor that sets the brightness of the tail led. The stock resistor is 2kOhm. If you want the tail to be a different brightness, change this resistor. The higher the resistor value, the lower the brightness. Other people have had good luck with 8-12kOhm resistors. If you are ordering these resistors, look for either “0603” or “0805” package sizes. If you search, they can easily be found all over the internet.

If you want to shut off the tail LED altogether, remove this resistor or at least disconnect one end of it.
…………………………………………………………………………

If you unscrew the driver retaining ring, this is what will come out.

Circled is the bleeder resistor. This resistor allows a small amount of power to bypass the driver and main LED at all times. The driver needs this to function when the tail LED is installed. It is not absolutely necessary to remove it if you only want to get rid of the glowing blue light, but removing the bleeder will greatly increase efficiency in the lowest mode(s).

Or just an accurate blow with a hammer driven chisel.

keengeorge · March 11, 2016, 6:02am

+1

PD, could you Please post that Valuable info in a new thread, so that all of us can easily find it in the future?

Best Regards,

George

Rufusbduck · March 11, 2016, 6:05am

He already posted it in the limited edition mod thread.

keengeorge · March 11, 2016, 6:07am

RBD, could I Please have a link?

Best Regards,

George

jescereal · March 11, 2016, 7:10am

Here ya go!

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/38352

M4D_M4X · March 11, 2016, 7:24am

may i ask again:

(how) can i zener mod the BLF X6 driver?

saypat · March 11, 2016, 7:25am

I can hardly see that 202 resistor with my magnifying glass! You guys actually can solder/unsolder that thing??? Amazing. That’s a nice picture, u must have a macro lens.

Wieselflinkpro · March 11, 2016, 7:40am

like any other driver. Remove the S4 Diod with an resistor and install the zener over the (bigger) Capacitor which isnt marked with OT or OTC.
I hope I am right.

keengeorge · March 11, 2016, 7:49am

Jescereal, Thank you Very Much. Greatly Appreciated.

Best Regards,

George

Rufusbduck · March 11, 2016, 7:53am

I think you mean replace D1 with a resistor(200ohm) and stack a 4.5v Zener on the input cap.

The_Miller · March 11, 2016, 9:26am

When I removed the LED of the X5 it was the first flashlight I have encoutered where it was done right.
A tiny bit of (what looks like Arctic silver) thermal compound.
When bulding computers one learns a rookie mistake is to use too much of the termal stuff. It is merely there to fill the little openings one could not see wth the bare eye and even for a big surfaced CPU the amount of half a grain of rice will do better them more.
Every time I see the stuff being pushed out of the space under the LED star I want to remove the led, wipe 75 - 80% off en put it back with the decent small amount.
Metal to metal conducts heat the best, there allways will be veru tiny gaps, those need filling because air insulates. That is what the thermal compound should do and when a flat star is placed on a flat pill not a lot is needed.

Cleric05 · March 11, 2016, 11:06am

Is the group buy over? I tried the code for the haiii matte black 3b(3aeb2e) but it didn’t work… Is there a different code?

pilotdog68 · March 11, 2016, 12:39pm

Replace D1 with 200ohm resistor.

Stack Zener between MCU side of that resistor and GND (the closest access to GND is the far side of the big capacitor).

Doing this will allow you to power 6v LEDs, but none of the voltage monitoring on the driver will work without changing the other two resistors and possibly re-programming.

DB_Custom · March 11, 2016, 3:03pm

Definitely re-programming, which won’t be easy because TK has a full plate in this driver. The batt check function won’t work, timing will probably be messed up as well.

The ATTiny25 seems to be a lot more finicky than the 13A, not sure what all will happen if the voltage is doubled even with the Zener in place.

To my knowledge, this driver hasn’t been Zener modified to date. TK was going to look into it but I don’t think she has yet.

Dirt · March 11, 2016, 3:28pm

Ordered 3/5, no activity on shipping yet. Now I see the group buy is over…… I got a bad feeling. 1st BANGGOOD order ever, so I’ll wait an see.