- simple switch out of the tail cap is no longer possible because of the design of the light
- Correct
- spare switch will not be included
- Do not know to give a definitive answer but there was discussion of adding an additional switch
- You need to modify the tailcap itself, to disable the lit tailcap and it's parasitic drain
- Super easy to do by cutting led connection but with AL sets one can lockout via twisting tailcap. The daily drain is so minimal from what I see so I would not even bother to disable. I think it is a useful feature when looking for the light(s) in the dark or in the car.
Ok thanks! I guess I’ll just figure out how to disable it when I get it. I like the idea but it would literally have to be lower than .01 lumens for me to like it. I’m talking at or below firefly 1 on an armytek tiara or Zebralight.
Just so we’re all clear, and since its current topic again (still?), there are side-effects of disabling the tailcap leds, yes? Without also removing the bleeder resistor on the driver the long- and medium-press timings will be changed, I believe. May not be a big deal, but I’d like to be sure I fully understand what the results will be should I decide to tinker with mine.
I’m on the list for 2 SS/CU NW, please add me to the Al list for one set, NW.
Thanks for doing this, team.
Oh yeah? If it’s not been decided or tested yet it’s fine. But up until the post above I wasn’t sure if it was a simple swap out. I guess not.
There was some discussion about it a few pages ago - comment 1904 by ToyKeeper, and several subsequent follow-ups after that. I’m not sure if there was ever any resolution or not, or what the finished design will actually have. But regardless it looks like all of this works together along with that off-time cap that the microcontroller relies on for button timings, so changing the resistance in the circuit by bypassing those LEDs will have an effect on how those timings work. It’ll still be functional, nothing will break, but the button timings will change (I think).
Button timings? You mean like it takes half a second to change modes verses .2 seconds (just an example). I thought that’s what I understood but when I asked to clarify, my question went unanswered once or twice. A lot of this stuff is out of my expertise. I can solder stuff and replace things, but can’t build or modify a circuit for crap, without being told like an idiot, exactly what to do.
Please put me down for another set:
1) Aluminum
2) NW
3) 1
And to those making this possible, you are brilliant. Keep up the good work 
Yeah, I’m pretty sure that’s what will happen. The “normal” short press would probably not change (at least, not a meaningful amount) but a medium-press may become long, and a long-press may become super-long. But I have no idea yet what those numbers actually are. It won’t change my decision to buy these lights, but I would like to have that information before I go flicking resistors off of my tailcaps.
But again, all this could be undecided yet. I know there’s some discussion about what to do with it all, anyway. The answers will come, I’m sure.
Hanlen, removing one of the resistors halves the output, I slide my Xacto knife under the far end while apply the tip of my iron and lift up that end that’s away from the LED and leave it like that. Both resistors are still on the switch pcb but only one is engaged. Easy, takes about 2 seconds.
Then, I put a layer or maybe 2 layers of Kapton tape over the white plastic spacer washer that the switch sits on. With these 2 things done, the output is quite low and very nice in the dead of the night. (yes, I cut the center out of the Kapton tape with the Xacto knife so the switch can clear.)
All told, maybe 30 seconds and the illumination is in control. Put a third layer of Kapton tape on for an even more subdued glow that barely allows you to see your watch with the boot about an inch from the watch face. 
TK knows better than me, but I would assume that with the high resistance in the tailcap circuit, removing it would not influence timings much. Removing the bleeder resistor should have a larger effect, but you may as well keep that resistor: it is only carrying current when the light is switched on, and that current is just ~8mA, removing that current leak is only relevant for very low light very long runtime situations.
That’s what I like! Does it affect any other function of the light when you do this?
Mine’s set up like I described and works fine. Been carrying it since it arrived, some of my other lights are arguing amongst themselves, mutiny is in the making.
SS/Cu set x 1 in NW
Al set x 1 in NW
Thanks for the effort of all that is responsible for this one of a kind beauty 0:)
Looking forward (hoping) for an extra tail cap and moon mode
Thanks man!
Furthermore, for anyone willing to solder tiny things (or a single tiny resistor), the brightness of the tailcap is infinitely adjustable by swapping a resistor without any effect to driver functionality.
When I read the infinitely bit it just occured to be that we could use trimmer resistors / potentiometers so just an adjustment with screwdriver to more or less brightness. Still doesn’t work for turning them off tho, unless its really high resistance i guess.
> TK questions
Agreeing with Ronin42 on all points there.
Honestly, that’s a great (and obvious) idea that I hate myself for not thinking of it before. I need to find some tiny pots now! Hopefully they come small enough…