You are right TK i realized this myself after i posted, yes for 14 lumens it might not be worth while. Especially if Roninās great idea take hold to sell these upgraded switch assemblies on banggood. This i have asked for before but then we didnāt have a mass manufactured possible solution to the āpre switch bypassed drop in boardā.
The question i wonder is will Mankers solution with there double spring really be as good as a IOS copper beryllium spring.
If we canāt get some pre assembled switch boards, i would still order āmax ampā boards if i could though.
EDIT
This is great :bigsmile: slowly but surely (or should i say fast ) are we removing lots of barriers to modded performing lights for less here :party:
I think in this case it does not matter. The spring design is done. If you want to change to a different spring, GREAT, but lets agree that the SPEC is not really up for review.
I noticed that you had a long conversation about board design ideas (beyond my pay grade). As a request please lets not conflate the idea of the additional lit switch assembly with other design ideas.
Thanks for your support about offering the lit switch assembly as an extra option. Lets take the win, and not loose track of the mission of bringing this to BLF in a timely manner (in time for us to have/give as gifts) for our rapidly upcoming holiday (and I donāt mean turkey day).
I think you missed that i and PD clearly stated that that discussion didnāt apply to this GB, so you donāt have to worry, nothing is getting changed because we are discussing other ideas here but dosenāt mean something fruitful dosenāt come of that in the future, i think many of the ideas implemented in this GB was discussed (probably OT at the time) in many other threads. The organizers know what they are doing and wonāt get sidelined by some idle chatter while we wait for more new on the progress on this GB.
My point in the quoted post was that if a mass manufactured āpre bypassed unlit lit switch assemblyā like you suggested could be sold it would not be very interesting to order special max amp boards from ospark to build my own switch assemblies for less than a 1% gain
Last time another great idea like this came up ReManG i think spoke to Neal & krono about doing a GB on the A6 shorty tubes, and manker did it and we got 500 sign ups in the end. And now it is a regular stocked item for the EE X6 & BLF A6, i just ordered mine.
And we can buy the BLF A6 driver at Banggood
This should really also be made, i hope someone picks it up so Manker & Banggood can sell us lots of this upgraded switches, they would be crazy not to.
We have a combined only in the BLF X6 & BLF A6 of 4200 sold lights that can all benefit from a drop in tailswitch upgrade
Good point people like options if they would offer an unlit option + and a lit option and maybe even with different colors they would multiply sales many many times over.
And also sell lots and lots of boots of the clicky kind
Iād like to see at least one mode 100% 7135, the middle mode of Muggle mode would be good. There are going to be over 1000 of these going to BLF members, many who have light output measuring equipment. I know individual LEDās will vary and 7135ās will have differences but that shouldnāt be that high.
There are a few 100% 7135 modes. Iāll re-post an earlier comment, since it summarizes the settings for the latest firmwareā¦ (everything marked ā140 lmā means ā100% 7135ā)
To make a group with five modes where one lands exactly on the 100% 7135 point, Iād have to change the shape of the curve. How about something like this?
Modes look good to me.
Regarding mode 8, that jump from 140 to 1300 is a big jump. I get the 140lm, i get the 1300lm for off-road use, im thinking maybe add a 500 lm middle ground for road use, bright enough to see and be seen.
Thats just an observation. I do cycle but I have a bike light that I am happy with so dont change it on my account.
TK I think you have put in as much or more work on the relationship between power/lumens/perceived light curves as anyone here.
The SS/Cu X6 (and maybe the X5 for that matter) maybe too heavy for a good bike light (the issue of getting bounced either off or out of positioning) actually does exist. on the other hand as a thrower the Alu versions might make a good addition to a more floody setup.
For my part I really like ramping lights (the right level for every one) short of that I have found that 6 or maybe 5 properly spaced (my definition is perceived evenly spaced) is about as close as most folks will ever need. (all this is excepting moon modes).
My personal bias is the the big MFGās have too big a jump between the top (advertised lumen number) and the next step down (most likely the actual usable top setting).
I built some triples recently and used a 75-80% of full power as the second highest setting and I learned that this is probably too close to the top 100% setting not really as noticeable a change as I wanted (but close), I would guess (and that is exactly what I mean, guess) that 70-74% would be a nice second setting (but who knows?), I feel (as opposed to think) that the typical 50% second setting leaves too much of a gap.,when #2 step is closer to the top setting then a nice close #3 setting fits in there at under 50% this leave three more settings to cover the bottom x%.
So far I like #6 mode āthe dale defaultā the best but I would not mind a similar (2nd standard deviation biased) second choice.
Ooh BTW I am not sure what ābike modeā would actually be but when I ride what I need is the brightest setting that will not over heat for extended periods of time (and that will not be affected by jolts from the road) (I hated/still hate cheap multi mode lights that kept auto switching modes because of sharp jolts from bad roads). I finally went with a pair of 10 chip single mode C8sā (not the perfect solution but better then other cheap ones).