I kind of like that TK called a guy dumbbutt, and fatboy wants to know what's goin on. What is this world coming to?
dumbbutt - (luv the name) welcome to BLF! We are ok with hacking around here, that's how we learn. We are using Atmel based MCU's, from the ATTiny13A's, then 25, and 45/85's. This particular light's driver is/will be Tiny25 based. You can download the dev toolset for free, and only thing you need to pay for is a USB dongle (~$4), cable from the dongle to a clip, and a SOIC-8 clip ($3-$20 or so). If you were to go in on this buy, just need to de-solder couple of things to get access to the driver, then you can get the software, make changes you want, clip up to the MCU and dnld. All the info is here (somewhere) to set you up. You can search or start a new thread and ask. TK's repository is a pretty good starting point.
I don’t know about anyone else, but I come here to play. So, I like it when a new person calls themself dumbbutt, or when 1dash1 writes an epic tale of de-anodizing one’s heart.
not sure what happened but put my order in in post #1533 i think it would have put me somewhere around number 250. i never got put on the list???
EDIT: i would have been 229 on the list
I, too, am wondering this. I’ve used protective coatings over the years but I can’t think of one I’d put on these flashlights. Also, I’d like to highly polish and coat a BLF Bare A6 if this stuff works out.
If there’s not a brand name (quite possible) or a recognized chemical/formula (also quite possible)
at least — what solvent will remove it?
I know, all this work to get it put ON and now we ungrateful wretches want to ask how to remove it …
But, as the psam says, for everything there is a reason.
Oh, wait. I got that wrong.
Let’s get that right:
The reason to find out what’s used is:
when it’s time to renew a protective coat —- we need to either use the same thing, or know what’s compatible, or know how to remove it cleanly to prepare the surface for recoating.
Anyone who’s tried to deal with that problem, on a house, or a boat, or a tool, or any kind of surface — without knowing what kind of tenacious but peeling/failing stuff we’re dealing with on the surface, will understand the need to have this information handy.
Well said and this is why I don’t know what I might use.
Polymers, acrylics, lacquers… they will all eventually fail.
The only thing I would use right now in my ignorance is a dry coating like I use on my guns and knives, Tuf Cloth.
Hopefully there’s a better alternative.
I made a Kydex holster in a horizontal open top design with finger slot in the bottom to push the light up and out. The Cu X5 is showing wear on the coating from the Kydex rubbing it. The copper is, of course, turning dark in those places. So eventually it’ll all wear off and I’ll polish it with Mother’s, then I’ll let it go natural.
I might take the light completely apart and remove the guts, switch and all, o-rings, all that, then reassemble only the copper parts and heat it up real good so it gets the red and purple overtones, which should also serve to harden it. Then reassemble it and have it looking old and gorgeous.
Hmmm, air cool it to harden it or quench it? I forget…
It’s a coating something like Protecta-Clear, a plasticky finish that begins to peel off and let the copper tarnish in spots and streaks. How you carry it, handle it, treat it, will determine how long it holds up. It is VERY difficult to get out of crevices like fins and knurling. (ask me how I know)
Quenching anneals copper, aging hardens it or working it hardens it… bead blasting, hammering, any forming motion hardens it.
So I am heating it at 425º for 2 hours then cutting off the oven and allowing it to cool slowly, I will set it aside and let it age for a week or two before reassembling it. (can age harden in hours, the more time the more it hardens up to it’s max)
