I’m on the list for 1 set of ss/cu nw. If there is room, please bump me up to 2 sets!
Given how heavy it is compared to the stock X6 it’s likely to be either a shelf queen or a hammer in which case you either won’t need to touch it up or it wouldn’t do any good. Just don’t keep it any where near the dishes.
Put me in please, for one aluminum set CW
Oh, lordy lord lord, is this the Spruce Goose of flashlights?
No shelf queen here, I have my little Cu X5 in the oven after a 2 hour run at 550º finishing temp. It’s dark brown oxidized as though it’d been out in the weather for years. Ready to use with no fear of it “tarnishing”. 
From (belive it or not) the Copper Development Association Inc. aka CDA @ copper.org
Enjoy
Introduction
Copper and its principal architectural alloys are relatively active metals which, when left unprotected, tend to oxidize. Long term atmospheric exposure in other than arid climates generally results in the formation of the naturally protective gray-green patina.
Because copper and its alloys afford a broad spectrum of both natural and weathered colors, much effort is expended to either hasten the natural weathering by chemical means or to preserve the bright natural colors through the application of clear protective coatings.
This section presents extensive reference data on the subjects of natural weathering, chemical coloring, clear organic coatings and opaque coatings both organic and inorganic. In addition, information is presented on the advantages and potential pitfalls of oiling, waxing and lead coating.
Natural or un-natural weathering, from polished to aged in 4 hours…
Wow, I like that just as much as when it was looking fresh. Maybe more.
That’s Beautiful Dale!
You’re good to go!
-Chuck
Whoa!
My brain is conflicted. Interesting stuff DB. Can't decide what I like better shiny or aged. Pretty cool..... and I was just browsing the posts thinking how I'd probably just throw some glossy clear coat on mine once in a while.
For an answer to the oft posed copper question.
Following for me please:
SS/Copper (SS/Cu) set
Tint (WW)
Quantities - 1set
SS/Copper (SS/Cu) set
Tint (NW).
Quantities - 1set
Aluminum (Al) set
Tint (CW).
Quantities - 1set
Thanks
Ronin42 Said:
Partially aged 
Natural Weathering Color Chart
I’d call it about 2-3years in 4 hours. But still not the old Parisian verdigris (funny accent implied) that many think is part of liking copper. But someday!
The current spire at the transept crossing replaced an earlier bell tower during restoration circa 1860.
It is surrounded by verdigris copper statues of the twelve apostles and symbols of the four evangelists.
Ronin42 Wrote:
Not fair. It looks Like DB has had his for years, and I am still waiting!
If this guy can figure out how to gold plate we should be able to also
I’m thinking that Rose Gold would be sort of appropriate for the X5, what do you think?
2-3 years is a bad estimate. How do I know? I was building a house some years back and had my finances stolen. I had copper water pipe in the foundation ready to pour a concrete slab. That copper was exposed to all the Texas sun and rain for 7 years, and it looked just about like this light does right now.
It takes certain conditions to make copper go green. We have a top 100 ranked Hospital here, who happened to have decided to use copper sheet panels to cover the side of a new building. After a number of years they pulled it all off and are still going through the process of putting stone in it’s place. Seems there was too much electrical interference having the building clad in copper, go figure. And it was all this same dark brown color, the only green was at a few points where water drained at a few corners or windows. I’m talking about an 8 story hospital building, covered in copper. We just don’t get the amount of rain that a lot of places get, so we don’t get the same kind of weathering on exposed copper.
Hasn’t it been argued here that a dark patina or ano is more efficient at thermal dispersion or emissivity than a glossy polished finish? So, I’m ready for it. The cool thing is, as I use the light and handle it there will be a pink and/or polished copper finish in the hand-to-flashlight contact areas. All this will develop over time of course, and I already know from 3 years experience that trying to maintain a polish on a copper flashlight is folly, and I’m a polish nut. I tried Rennaisance Wax, Protecta-Clear, Johnson’s Paste Wax, doesn’t really matter, contact wears off the finish and the copper tarnishes. It is what it is.
Polish it up and shelve it, tarnish it and use it, whichever choice is made the light is totally awesome!
Dale, did you figure out what substance was on it before you started? So I may strip it appropriately.
Well DB I don’t know about bad estimates, I just used what the Copper.org guys publish. Agreed YPMV (your patina may vary) and it does seem to be a function of humidity and rain.
It sounds like the hospital had reasons other then patina, upon review it looks like copper is a good material for rooves (expensive but good), a self renewing protective layer.
(Just to get your goat) Usually things are bigger in Texas but it looks like this time maybe it is 1-2 so maybe 3 french years are equal to 6 Texas years? for copper patina?
Let the record show when this becomes used daily, that Ronin42 coined the acronym.
On the subject of patina, I used to be a plumber and I used copper daily. If you flux it and heat it, it can make the copper shiny again. If you don’t clean the flux off after use it will grow green nasties and look greasy but to some that may be aesthetically pleasing. It’s worth playing with, maybe on a test piece first. I was thinking of warming up some flux, “flicking” it at some copper, and making a splatter effect. Idk that I would want it on the X5 but I’d have to try it to know. I never really played around with it when I was using copper daily.
edit: misspelled Ronin42, my apologies
How do I get one. where can I sign up?