About battery sizes - Only common and usual sizes are being discussed. Too many people either do not have easy access to sizes other than what Dale lists below or they do not want to add different sizes…been there
Would you sush! LOL
Sharpie - The X5 was actually built around the battery until Jmac realized that the T01 reflector could work and the throw ability came into the picture
@ All * Please post all A6 suggestions in that thread to avoid distracting this thread.
Yeah, well, FrankenDale is a pure lumen addict and only knows “more, more, more”. I bet he is even trying to figure out how to mod his phone to produce more light
This /\/quote]
I still want a CNQG Brass AA with a 14500 driver and a 219B or 219C and a decent interface.
This is not a project announcement. There aren’t even any relevant drivers capable of fitting into that tiny host, and it’d need a special fabrication process to get the board thin enough. But I still want it.
Oh, and hopefully a good screw-on clip too.
It’d be a lot easier using the brass 18650 as a base. It’s compatible with most standard parts. I’ve already got three of those though, including one triple. They’re nice, but I want something smaller.
I might just go with a 1x7135 driver, since I rarely want more than 100 lumens anyway. I think there’s just enough room for a MCU, a single 7135, and the rest of the required components.
I was kidding, think of shotguns, side by side or over under. It’s moot in a flashlight because there is no pistol grip or stock, I wasn’t talking about stacking the cells like in a tube light.
Btw, you can run stacked cells in a tube in parallel, that’s how I have my DST set up. Agreed it’s easier if the cells are next to each other.
I love my AL Kronos set. I wish the tail light was dimmer, but I guess it is what it is. Before getting on this site, I never paid much attention to flashlights, and now I find myself carrying my X5 everywhere I go.
It can be made dimmer, you just have to increase the resistance by stacking another resistor on the existing one or adding one to the pad on the other side of the board.
If you can’t do it yourself I’m sure there are several here that would be happy to help out for a reasonable cost.
I’d add an led to the other side of the board at the same time to even out the glow.
2. stacking a resistor or adding one to the other side will actually lower the resistance, making the led brighter. What you need to do is swap the resistor out for a different one.
Aside from aesthetic considerations, it’s usually a question of serial vs parallel. They are very different configurations, and the details are a bit much to get into here.
Edit: Oops, looks like details were already started and I’m not awake enough yet to recognize humor.
I think I mentioned weeks ago that both sets of lights arrived at the local USPS distribution on 2/2, but only the SS/Cu set was delivered on 2/3. The aluminum set never moved again. In fact, the tracking went completely dark about a week ago.
Then, today, they showed up in my mailbox a full 20 days since arriving in country.
Would like to go bigger on the next light. Eagletac M25C2 Turbo copy with a finned copper midsection, aluminum body and head, and the white anodizing as on the Noctigon Meteor. Probably also need to beef up the body so it looks better balanced.
Gunga is not the only one having issues with Neal/Banggood's response(s), &/or lack of any response.
I have not received any answer/acknowledgement to my 2 PMs to Neal/Banggood regarding my X5's Faulty/Broken driver & switch.
Edit:
This is Very Disappointing and Surprising to me, as I have been dealing with Neal for about 2 years, & until now he has always been helpful & responsive.
After scrolling over a dozen pages to find the info I had found not long ago in this thread I just have created a thread to copy post useful infos from this thread in.
