The thing with 4 flashes not indicating “full” is a calibration issue (which has already been fixed), not a design issue. Some component got changed last-minute and threw off the calibration (GRRRRR…). This would be an issue for any battery check style.
As for “phone signal bars” style versus “volts and tenths” style, that’s a question I think is best left up to a vote. One is quick and intuitive but coarse-grained; the other is finer-grained but slow and requires that the user understand the shape of a li-ion discharge curve. And there are other options, like using smaller increments to increase resolution (so, like, 1/6th or 1/8th or 1/10th instead of 1/4th charge per blink).
Is this something people want changed? Should we do a vote?
25% charge per blink? (like the A6, only with the calibration fixed)
1/6th, 1/8th, or 1/10th charge per blink?
2-4 blinks for volts, then 0-9 blinks for tenths?
0-12 blinks to indicate tenths of a volt above 3.0?
Working on it, but I lack the electrical engineering skills to do this properly. Anyone care to help solve this?
HELP WANTED: Someone who can design and modify circuits.
I am no expert, but I am aware that there are different classes of stainless steel. A2 is common, but there is also A4 which is sometimes referred to as ‘nautical’ stainless steel as it is more resistant to rust.
Neither of those steels is stainless. A2 and A4 are air hardening alloy tool steels, neither of which has enough free chromium to be considered stainless. Most stainless steels use a 3 digit AISI number (AISI 303, 304, 316, 410, 420, etc), or proprietary names (CPM S30V, CPM S90V, CPM S35VN, VG10, ATS-34, etc).
Thanks for the replies. I just found this from Wikipedia under the heading stainless steel.
“Type 304—the most common grade; the classic 18/8 (18% chromium, 8% nickel) stainless steel. Outside of the US it is commonly known as ”A2 stainless steel”, in accordance with ISO 3506 (not to be confused with A2 tool steel)”
I am in the UK, whole many of you are in the USA of course!
:bigsmile:
This is a really sweet set of lights but simply too rich for my budget. I hope you all enjoy them to the fullest. I still follow this thread just to watch it unfold. Some excellent work and collaboration.
Really looking forward to the SS/Cu sets being made. If they are made to a high standard, they will be the deal of the year. I’ve checked out a bunch of threads over on the other forum about high end custom lights. So shoot me! Can’t blame a boy for dreaming! You gotta be rich to buy those toys, or a financial idiot(says a guy with 40+ lights!). These GB lights look sweet, and with the BLF style performance and fantastic price, that’s what you call a winning ticket.
By the way, while we’d like to assume no first-day-novice workers will be making the copper parts, grinding and polishing can make a rather fine dust that needs attention:
That page has the MSDS, which has a personal protection paragraph for workers.
It’s pretty simple — manage dust, don’t blow copper dust off with compressed air, don’t lick your fingers.
I mention this kind of thing only because I can imagine someone having fallen off the potato truck straight into a machinist’s job making things for, um, us.
Who might not have Wikipedia at hand to learn the detailed stuff needed.
I’m already #139 on the list.
Please sign me up for another SS/Cu NW as my contribution to achieve the 200.
Hey guys: This light will be just great. It would also be a great gift for loved ones.
It is worth even more to buy a second (or third?), so that we reach the goal.
