BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

So where is the triple XHP50 version of this light?

I am in for 1 SS/CU CW

In times past, with the ever increasing demand for more output, where is the 4 die Cree MC-E now; Crees answer for more output at that time?

http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED%20Components%20and%20Modules/XLamp/Data%20and%20Binning/XLampMCE.pdf

Totally eclipsed and rendered obsolete by the introduction of the Cree XM-L.

I’m guessing that history really does repeat itself here, because now we see the 4 die XH-P’s (XH-P50 = four XP-G dies - XP-H 70 = four XM-L dies. - What do you think might be next?… It really depends on whether or not Cree thinks that there is a market (Money( for a more ’intense/focused discrete emitter. - A step in that direction was made by them with the introduction of the XP-L HI, so I am at least hopeful that they will continue to investigate these realms. - I truly believe that we are just beginning.

These XH-P emitters (as Dale says), are NOT for more Throw, but rather, for more ‘light’ (lumens), and they certainly do a great job at that!

But always remember that if you want concentrated focus, then you need to go ‘small’ with the emitter, and/or Large with the reflector, and that right there is one strike against the 4 die format. - Even just one strike places you in a real disadvantage, unless you like 4” bezels:) And even then you will lose.

I’m in the same boat as everyone else here and I don’t like these constraints one bit… I also don’t like the fact that I can’t jump 100’ high, and run 100 miles per hour.

I have constraints:-(

Flashlights are constrained too - But that does not mean that improvements can’t be made; I mean, Come-on!

Let’s Go!

It just that you need to be always mindful of our given ‘laws’ (physics), or you will be ‘barking up the wrong tree’.

Thanks for ‘listening’,
-Chuck

PS - I’m going to take my X6 and X5 and enjoy them to the fullest, because you just are not gonna get any better than this - Right Now.

I live in the ‘Now’, as this is really the only life that we have. - Yesterday is but a memory, and tomorrow is what you yourself make of it - Starting right Now!.

There is no electronic switch. It has a physical power-cutting switch like other reverse clicky lights. These do not tend to turn on by accident.

I got a triple XHP-50 on board from Cutter just yesterday. :stuck_out_tongue:

It’s set up as series so I will have to circumvent that, looking for what 8,000 lumens? More? Don’t know, I’ll have to build one and see. I’d probably be all over that, but am still coughing like crazy and can’t work at the lathe. Planning on putting it under a CUTE-3 optic, might have to shave the domes.

Only you would turn an optics rant into a life philosophy.


I know, I spoke about a possible security feature like the “muggle mode” (deactivation of turbo mode) or a key code (pattern of short/long presses), that would prevent the light to enter a potential unstable/hot (->fire) mode.

Really? I heard about lights that burned holes in pockets and I think it is a simple precaution to mechanical lockout a high Amp light (if possible) before I pack it in a bag or backpack where it could be squeezed. Am I over-cautious?

But this must not be the main argument to use the attiny 25, you should know better than I do. :wink:

Regards, Juergen

I know just enough to set something on fire but this thread is pretty entertaining.

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LOL! :wink:

Such a concise condensation of what I intended to say.

Thanks TK!
-Chuck

Put me on the list for one Stainless/Copper combo in NW.

Thanks,

David

Since the main improvement and main attraction about this new X6 v2 version is its stainless steel construction, I’m curious and want to ask:

1) How many of you on the SS/Cu Interest List own or have had a stainless steel light?
2) What do you think are the pros and cons of a stainless light?
3) In your opinion, is the main attraction for a stainless light categorized as form or function?

Since the main improvement and main attraction about this new X6 v2 version is its stainless steel construction (really? not for me.)

  1. How many of you on the SS/Cu Interest List own or have had a stainless steel light? Me
  2. What do you think are the pros and cons of a stainless light? Non staining light of course!
  3. In your opinion, is the main attraction for a stainless light categorized as form or function? Both?

I have a heavily modified C8. The threads are cut out of the head and a copper sleeve is press fit on with a half pound finned copper pill holding the emitter and driver. A 2 cell custom made 314SS tube is fitted between this copper pill and the tail switch. The light is an MT-G2.

I love the weight of it, the durability, the sheer substantial nature of it, it’s a beast and I don’t think I could ever part with it. The stainless tube is heat colored from blue to gold, blue at the tail and gold at the copper pill.

The initial reason for it was to isolate the cells from the heat in the copper, as SS doesn’t flow heat anywhere near as fast as aluminum or copper the cells stay cool even while the pill is cranking out the BTU’s. I always worry about the internal temps of the cells in a hot rod, so this does a good job taking care of that situation.

I also have several Titanium lights for similar reasons. Tough as nails and a blanket for the heat at the cells. Most of my Ti lights have copper pills, most were custom made this way for me.

I’m a big boy, weight is of no real consequence to me where a flashlight is concerned. As a matter of fact, the LACK of weight is the one thing I hate about my Olight M2X-UT Javelot.

Are the Stainless Steel X6-SE V2 & Copper X5 still going to be around $80/set?

I’m not sure I’d say the host material is the main appeal, though it certainly is nice. Compared to the original BLF EE X6, the improvements include:

  • Much higher lux.
  • More lumens.
  • Full range of output modes from moon to direct drive.
  • Blinky modes for those who want it.
  • Ability to configure the UI, go through modes in reverse, etc.
  • Lighted tailcap when off.
  • Steel/copper host.
  • Smaller companion light of the same style.
  • Better tints.

Basically, everything we wanted the first time… and then some.

In any case, I have a few stainless steel lights. They’re extremely tough and they look nice. My Convoy S7 still has a mirror finish despite being carried daily as a “beater” for a long time, and my DQG Tiny AAA laughs at years of abrasion from my keychain. It’s harder/tougher than titanium. The downsides are weight and poor thermal properties, but the thermal issues aren’t a concern on the X6.

Well yeah! If you’re gonna compare it to hundreds of kcd! :stuck_out_tongue:
Dale, you have a perspective that I can’t argue against, except to just say that everything is relative. You’ve just compared this light against a 843+Kcd light, and found it wanting in throw. Not surprising. I was coming from the opposite direction. I’ve never yet owned a light with 3000 lumens and 165Kcd. How much Kcd does this X6-SE v2 have? I was thinking, compared to THIS X6-SE, that a 3000 lumen, 165Kcd light built in the same shape/form, but sized up to a 26650 would be a huge leap toward ‘thrower’ - again, compared to this light, and also, compared to every flashlight I’ve ever seen with my own eyes. So, perspective changes everything. You have a position of perspective that I’ll probably never have with flashlights. It would be interesting to know the percentage of BLF members that have ever had a ‘thrower’ by your definition. Maybe I’m the odd man out.

“The area out in front of you is so illuminated that you can’t really see downrange.”

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I think that Dale makes a really good and Real point here.

I bought an Acebeam K40M, thinking that since it would throw 500m, AND provide 3000lm (with it’s MT-G2), all the bases would be covered. - It’s a great light, but the foreground in front of my face is lit up so bright that it is really hard to see very far down-range. - I really love the light, so I will keep it.

But I still wanted to see far away, so I got an Olight SR52 -UT… Problem solved!

For now :wink:
-Chuck

My perspective came about from need. When I was first getting into lights, I needed to be able to see further in the field, head count on cows, is that a new baby or a coyote or both?

After spending $165 on JayRob’s “D” Mag Stubby at “1000” lumens, I still couldn’t see 180 yds out in the field, much less 500. Which is how I came to buy the HD2010. And because it didn’t work when I got it, I began to fix lights, make modifications and so on and so forth until I had 10, 30, 60, 100…

I can remember showing off a light to the neighbor and his girlfriend, she asked how many lights I have and I said 29. She laughed and asked how many lights I NEED? Without hesitation I said 30.

Now I have a quite a few lights that illuminate the 2nd neighbors barn at 610 yds. I have lights that you could see faces at that distance and know who was out there. Those are “throwers” . I can head count black cows on a moonless night at 300-450 yds. I can keep a spotlight on a grey coyote out past 500 yds. (they’re usually in a place that the ground crests at about that point so then they drop out of sight beyond that distance)

So, yes, I developed the sense of a thrower needing to break 1100M as I realized how much more light would be on a subject 500 yds away, 300 yds away. It grew into the separation of hot spot and spill, being able to see or not.

A de-domed XP-G2 really makes a nice tight beam with thin spill. The XP-E2 even more so, the legendary pencil beam. But those aren’t backed by a lot of lumens, so of course there’s some trade-offs.

I’ve gotten 103Kcd from an X6 before, with the de-domed XP-G2. My big lumens X6’s don’t make that kind of throw, merely due to the small (relatively) lens diameter. Not even when making 4278 lumens like my Ti X6 from Rey.

Watching the world series? Look at it like this, would an outfielder be able to “throw” a single baseball further from the fence or 3 baseballs? See what would happen? 3 would fall short and scatter. One can be thrown like a rifle shot almost, those guys amaze me. So for me, that’s the difference in throw and flood. Yes, I can get light on the white barn at 610 yds with my 14,000 lumen BTU Shocker, but it’s not really thrown light as much as it’s sheer power. Maybe I should try to get a measurement on lux with a big aspheric in front of the Shocker? lol

3000 lumens in an X6 is still a staggering amount of light. Out here in the country, it can get gobbled up. In the closer confines in town, well, it’s a head turner to be sure! You really have to see it, to believe it.

Just wondering what kind run time you get on some of your Hi power lights?

As usual, my newness outpaces my enthusiasm for the subject. I knew you’d know more about throw than me, because I know that I don’t know much. :wink:

There is one point I think you’ve cleared up for me concerning throw. I always thought of it as merely making distance. Seems to me that you’re really defining it as making a contrast. It reminds me of the sneakernet. You can literally get more data farther in a length of time using FedEx than using the fastest internet connection known to man. But, that length of time is measured in days versus the “lightening speed” of our internet connections. Similarly, it appears that what you’re saying is that getting light to a distance isn’t hard, if you’ve got a lot of light. But, getting light “only” onto that distant target, versus everything in between, is what defines throw.

Did I get it that time? :shy: