I have throwers by his definition. 
Although I would consider a thrower as a more sliding scale where size is factored in as in compact thrower, mid-sized, etc.
Really, throwers are my favorite lights. They’re not as useful to me as my S6 triple XP-L, but that doesn’t stop me from liking to make and use them more. It’s just staggering to pull out a handheld flashlight and light things up at 3/4 of a mile.
And this is why i hope the V3 is a new range of mass produced triples with every BLF trick in the book. If you haven’t owned a X6 triple you need to ;), it is the perfect size and heat sinking to actually sustain the output without getting blistering hot right away.
I had a Fenix TK75. ~2600 lm and 92 kcd of throw. I compared it to a XinTD C8, 900 lumens and 35 kcd of throw. In actual use, the TK75 didn’t let me see much farther, because the foreground was too bright.
OTOH, I also have an aspheric with 200 kcd of throw… it goes a lot farther but the beam itself is so bright that it obscures the target I’m shining at. I can see the beam very clearly, but the target doesn’t look like much. It’s kind of like trying to use a laser pointer.
My favorite lights for looking into the distance are reflector-based throwers with bright narrow beams. The spill is dim enough to not get in the way, and the hotspot is distributed in a way which lets me see what I’m aiming at instead of just seeing the beam.
The X6v2 prototype I measured got about 50 kcd. It’s a nice beam for its size. I find that it hits a sweet spot for size and throw and general-purpose usefulness.
LOL, I’ll have to remember that for the next time someone asks me.
I’m on #92 on the Stainless Steel X6-SE V2 & Copper X5 list and you spelled my name wrong. It is SmokinH not SmokinG.
Thanks
It’s always a good idea to lock out a high-power light during travel. However, the button on this is a mechanical lock-out, and the aluminum versions can additionally be locked out by unscrewing the tail a bit.
For an e-switch, I’d be worried about accidental activation. That happens a lot. For a forward-clicky and/or a projecting button, I’d be a little worried too, but not as much. For a recessed reverse-clicky though, the risk is very low.
It’s still possible… just very unlikely. And by default it comes on in moon mode.
Has anyone here had issues with recessed reverse clickies turning on by accident?
I’ve seen in happen a few times, for example in a purse quite near me. Light had been dropped in tail first, later on something pushed it down on something lumpy, click and a little later, oh, look — it’s been on for long enough to get quite warm. That wasn’t a li-ion, happened a while ago, no consequences to speak of, but cautionary.
Cautionary as in: said purse belonged to she who just recently looked at my first X6 light up and immediately said ’Wow! Can I HAVE IT?”
I said yes, of course, with some, um, explanation of what could go wrong, and that tailcap lockout is good practice.
So that’s good for the aluminum lights.
With the SS and CU lights, if I’m expecting to not be in personal control of it, I’ll probably get a bottle cap big enough to fit over the tailcap snugly and add it as a safety cap,
It’s always been surprising to me, but I have had to admit that even people who astonishingly smart about all sorts of other things may not have any interest in the fiddling details of flashlights.
Then again, I’ve noticed most people (who have no personal experience in rock climbing, spelunking or hang gliding) find my “belt and suspenders” approach to risk amusing.
Contrariwise, none of my living friends who have shared my fondness for climbing, spelunking and hang gliding take extra chances.
That is the general idea....to incorporate whatever we have learned in feasible cost effective manner ;)
While I doubt any would admit it...we can be sure that the "big guys" watch this forum very closely. It's free R&D and then they use their capital and resources to further their "bets"
Sadly, please remove me from the list. #182 now open.
Hi all, I’m a long time lurker. I saw this today and had to join. These lights are awesome!
Please put me down for 1 set: SS/Cu, NW, XP-L HI.
For the lighted tail, I really hope that its not blue, or at some point we have some sort of choice of colours, I can see that blue would be useful charging green GITD tail caps, but personally, I would like something in the amber/green/red to avoid it melatonin related things at night. Also I plan on painting the threads, having a lock out is necessary.
ToyKeeper,
Thank you for your input. The recent discussions here brought a few more questions to mind:
1) Considering the thicker traces of the tailcap PCB and meeting the emitter Vf of the XPL-HI using a hi-drain battery, will there be any benefit or increase in current and light output if we do a wire bypass mod on either the tailcap or driver spring (or both springs?) for this X6 v2?
2) Between the SS X6 and the Aluminum X6, what will be the main differences we can expect when we use the light?
a) No tailcap lockout for SS version.
b) Aluminum version will run hotter since no Cu heatsink
c) SS will be tougher and heavier than Al
d)
FIAWOL / FIJAGDH
Either - Or,
It seems that I’m somewhere in the middle, so that both are applicable.
Sorry to be so short… Got to get my costume on so that I can join the rest of the kids 
Thanks, Hank…
-Chuck
Is it posssible to get the copper versions coated, or will it be without any coating and get a patina over the time?
Are there size data from the X5, did I overread them?
They will have some kind of coating, I believe. Yes, there is size info, and even comparison pics, in the thread. I don’t remember where, but it’s in there.
_ bugsy36 said
While I doubt any would admit it…we can be sure that the “big guys” watch this forum very closely. It’s free R&D and then they use their capital and resources to further their “bets”
[/quote]
_
I cant prove it but I bet there is a link between Manker going from “wow what an odd design” to “WOW its about time” in the lights they are bringing to market so lets not forget that they have been soaking up the BLF cool-aid for a while now.
Does anyone see similarities between their new T-01 and the X6? Anyone…?
copper coating was arranged I recall
Just to clarify the recessed button situation, was the accidental activation of the reverse clicky in a situation involving a tailcap with a tail-standing shroud protecting the button like the X6 or a no-shroud tailcap with exposed button? If so, I would think this is a rare situation indeed. In any case, a lockout tailcap would be nice on the SS version but I don’t see how that can be done. Maybe an extra stiff switch boot instead? On Oveready McClicky switches, they have soft press, medium press, and hard press switch boots. Maybe you can install the hard press switch boot on your SS light? The switch boot on McClicky switches are standard 14mm ones so it should fit the X6 switch, I think.
Here is a graph on activation pressure:
The hard press boot takes almost twice as much pressure to activate (almost 3000 grams = 6.6 pounds of pressure) as the soft press boot.
I've also seen it happen recently in a purse/handbag & in a sports bag (1 light was a BLF X6-SE & the other a BLF A6). 
So now I have tried to brainwash them to always do a precautionary tail lockout beforehand. 